rlevine

It has two lower shafts, one for the hook and a separate one for the feed. The wheel feed is driven separately from the hook by reduction gearing from bottom bevel gear housing. There's an interesting wrinkle in that the needle rock is set for the middle stitch length if the three stitch gear sets are close together, otherwise it may need to be adjusted when the stitch length is switched. Apologies for the late response, I took some pics this morning. Rick

Thanks! Discovered our local O'Reilly Auto carries 1/64" vegetable paper, too. Didn't have to pay McMaster's shipping rates! Rick

I haven't found any manuals or instructions for Singer 110W machines that are more recent than 1937. Anyone out there have know if 1950's machines had different documentation, have any if so, and would be willing to scan it? (My machine seems to be late 1952 from the serial number.) (I'm not particularly in search of better how-to info, but I'm trying to resolve some part discrepancies.) Thanks! Rick

I just received a Singer 110W125 head, and started in on some cleanup. Given everything I've read here and all the documentation I've found, I expected it to be geared for very small stitches, and I'd need to replace gears to get to stitch lengths at the large end of its range, say 12/16/18-ish spi. I was very surprised to find that the gears in the machine are feeding at 9, 9.5 and 10 spi. They're also not the gear numbers from the 1930's-vintage 110W parts lists I have, but match the gears sets from 136W post machines. I pulled the needle and tried measuring again, wondering if the needle rocker was interfering with the stitch length , but it's consistent. Any thoughts on the peculiar gearing and why I'm getting something that I thought the machine couldn't do? (Or if there's an obvious mistake I'm making, of the "of course the stitches are long, you're forgetting to set the <blank> before measuring") variety. Thanks! Rick

I'm rehabbing a Singer 110W125, and it has lovely paper gaskets on the gearboxes. Before I remove them, what do folks use to replace the gaskets if they're (inadvertently :p) damaged? Left to my own devices, I'll look for very thin detroiter vegetable paper, but I'm curious if there is another recommended material. Thanks! Rick

Done. Don and Gregg, thanks for your help. Rick

Yep. That's where I'm ending up. And filing down the plate a bit, and using parts from the old one as I can. Thanks, Gregg!

Thanks Don! Depending on the size of the thread controller hole, that's much closer than the replacement I found, which is short, at 55mm. It also has some other problems, like the rear screw heads are too large, and the thread controller base is slightly large for its seat. I think I'll pitch it back to ebay. I'd love to keep the plate, but the tension stud has been snapped off at the start of the threads, and the stud is swaged in place. I found another one, and the pics are more promising, now that I know which bits are important! More expensive, but I get what I pay for. Thanks, again! Rick

I'm replacing a tension assembly on a Tacsew T206RB, and the (admittedly cheap) replacement I got on Ebay seems to have some differences from the one I'm replacing. Notably, the upper screw hole is in the wrong place. If anyone has a Consew 206RB or a newer machine, and a caliper, and feels up to it, would you be willing to measure the distance between the edge of the upper screw hole and the thread controller hole on the back of the tension plate? See the attached pic for a better description. The replacement I bought is about 1mm shorter, seems very cheaply made, and has several other differences that make me wonder whether I got a bad part, or if my clone is just gratuitously different. (So far, I haven't found other incompatibility issues , but that might be because I haven't tripped over them yet.) I could bodge the assembly a bit to get it to work, but it seems a shame to start with an ugly part for a renovation if there are better ones available. Thanks! Rick

Thanks! I've seen bent shafts and cracked castings from too much force. Sometimes it's hard to tell how distressed something is before you try to fix it. It was fun to see the shaft start to spin! I'm in inner SE. We're shut down today. Last night it got just warm enough to coat everything with ice. Not too much snow, but we can stand on top of it! Stay safe. Rick

Bingo. Thanks to you both. Pointed a hair dryer down through the top access port for 10 minutes, and it's a happy machine. Rick

Hello! I've been lurking for a couple of months, and learning a lot. I'm amazed at how many of my google searches end up pointing me to this forum. Thanks for being here, and for creating such a rich, honest collection of knowledge and advice. I'm looking for suggestions on freeing a stuck vertical shaft on a machine I'm rehabbing. It's labeled as a Tacsew T206RB, badged "SUPREME." ie, it's a Taiwanese 206RB/8BL. It has push-up reverse, and from what I've learned it looks like Consew 206RB machines, before they added the top oil reservoir and wick that heads out to the needle end. My guess is it came from Chikon Industrial Sewing Machine in New Taipei City, but I'm more familiar with the Chinese knitting clone business than sewing, so that's just a guess. It's been very lightly used, and has none of the wear and scoring I've seen on production machines. The story I was told was that it was stored in a shed for 25 years, abandoned. It's cleaning up very well, but the vertical shaft won't budge. I've pulled the grub screws on the lower bevel gears, and the lower shaft spins fine, and the upper shaft will move slightly all along its length if I try to turn the handwheel gently, but the vertical shaft is tight. The catch is that I can't reach the set screws on the upper bevel gears, because of how the shaft is positioned, and I don't want to damage the upper gears by applying more force. I've been oiling it and letting it marinate, but other than that do the machine folks in the crowd have any suggestions for freeing the shaft? Thanks! -- Rick