seasidesunflower
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Posts posted by seasidesunflower
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I would personally stick to Hermann Oak bridle leather. I have not been impressed with the leather from Wickett & Craig (probably in the minority though), and can't speak on Sedgewick's quality. Bridle leather shouldn't need an extra finish though, outside of maybe a nice water repellant conditioner - If anything, I might reach out directly to the company and get some answers.
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What tape do you use? I don't experience this issue with high quality blue painters tape. Also, what is your application process?
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Very clean! Nice!
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Hey ya'll. My sweet husband has recently started playing the banjo and I'd love to make him a banjo strap and a cradle strap to help show my support for him. The only issue is, I cannot for the life of me find a banjo strap or a banjo cradle template online. Does anyone have one or know of one? I'm more than happy to pay, just want to make one for my husband. Thank you for your time!
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I have one that was given to me, and I've cut myself countless times on it and wasted a lot of good leather from it just falling apart on me. No name brand and no screws, only held together with rubber bands. I had no clue Weaver made a much more sturdy option, I've been buying strips like a chump. This forum helps again!
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I might be interested in some! Consider creating an imgur(.)com photobook, and that way anyone who is interested can be message a link and circle the items in the photos they want. Then you can replace the photos, crossing out what is no longer available. Might be easier to do one-at-a-time style thank just posting the link here though. Other than that, this forum's marketplace should help you a lot!
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This is beautiful! Awesome job!
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I'm also still learning, but might have a couple of suggestions.
Guessing that you aren't tooling since the leather is predyed.
Even with predyed leather, it might be smart to put a small test amount in a pocket of a pair of pants you don't care about and leave it while doing daily life. Sometimes that dye can bleed and you don't want ruin family/friends/customer's clothes or purses.
For a matte sheen, that is semi water resistant, try tan kote on a test piece and see how you like it. If you would like something much more water resistant and with a higher gloss/ sheen, try Resolene.
I have not used it, so I cannot personally vouch for it, but I know a lot of makers swear by Sheridan RTC.
As far as oils, I prefer olive oil and neatsfoot, but I tool almost everything that leaves my shop. Mink oil almost feels too greasy for me so I only use it for water resisting my husband's boots. Maybe I need to switch up my brand though.
Your burnishing idea seems like it would get very glossy, especially if you sand your edges as well.
Whatever you choose, I highly recommend testing it out and putting the test piece into use for a day or so. Best of luck!
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1 hour ago, BigSiouxSaddlery said:
This is generally something that should done by a qualified saddle repair person. The saddle needs to be partially disassembled, leather pieces cut which will hold the dee rings, which will then be attached to the tree with screws and nails. If you have no experience with saddle construction or repair, it is typically not a do-it-yourself job. Inquire in tack and feed stores in your area for someone who can safely and properly do the job. While the strength of the rear rigging on a pleasure saddle is not quite as paramount to the safety of horse and rider as the front rigging, improper installation can compromise the tree and/or reduce the value of the saddle.
Thank you for your reply - I'll point her in the direction of some saddlers, though if I had to bet, she would sooner just buy a new saddle.
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It looks awesome all cleaned up! Great job!
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7 hours ago, BigSiouxSaddlery said:
The saddle appears to be what is marketed as a so called "training saddle". A qualified saddle maker or repair person would need to inspect the saddle to determine if what you are asking is advisable. It may be just as easy and cost effective to add a rear rigging in the traditional manner, rather than rotate the existing dee ring, which would require a horizontal slit to be cut in the skirt, after drilling out the rivets, which would require removal of at least a portion of the sheepskin to access the rivet burrs. I shudder at the thought of it. If you're going to add a rear rigging, do it correctly and retain the value of the saddle by not cobbling it up.
I agree with you! I told her from the get go it would be unlikely, but I would ask around. Can I ask what you mean by adding a rear rigging in the traditional manner? Google/youtube searches just come up with how to tack up with Western Gear.
7 hours ago, Goldshot Ron said:That back ring looks like it is for a britchen strap. It is too far back for a flank cinch dee. A good location, for a flank cinch billet, would be in-line with your concho at the edge of the cantle.
Thank you!
Eventing is my main experience with horses, so I had no clue if that was even the correct placement.
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Hey there! My riding instructor wanted me to know if I could safely rotate the D ring to hold a back cinch safely or if she would be better off with a new saddle altogether. Does anyone have any experience with this and would be willing to offer up any advice and guidance? I can get more photos if need be!
Thanks in advance!
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On 7/8/2021 at 4:03 PM, Rahere said:
The simplest approach on pattern making is to cover your subject in cling film as a separator, then silver gaffers tape as the moulding agent, finally draw the panels on with a sharpie. Lift or cut the mould free and cut the panels. Transfer them to paper, addi seam allowances for sewing and then to card - I plasticise it. Those are then your cutting masters.
Use darts and fillets to allow for curves - a dart with cut-in curved sides will follow the curve into a 3d-curve, but check the length of both sides matches. Check if the block's magnetic - you might be able to add magnetcs to hold the cover in place, both at the edges and centre. Obviously, you don't want the entire shebang sliding into the driver's footwell at any time.
On 7/8/2021 at 8:14 PM, Dwight said:An excellent pattern material can be found at Joann Fabric shops.
Ask them about their marine vinyl. It's a tad pricy at 19 to 25 a yard . . . but the yard I believe is 45 inches wide . . . and you can get 20, 30, 40, and sometimes 50% off (one item) coupons on the internet.
It is my go to pattern material. It mimics leather in many ways . . . but can be easily hand sewn or a good home sewing machine will also sew it . . . and you can play with it all day long.
I've used it for chaps . . . bags . . . gun cases . . . a little with holsters, but I don't usually need it there.
Have fun . . . may God bless,
Dwight
Thank ya'll! I didn't even think of gaffer's tape, and I definitely like a test fabric before- even if it is pricey, it'll be cheaper than doing it over again with leather because I messed up the first time!
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Hey there! Sorry if this has already been asked, but nothing really came up in the search.
I'm looking to make a truck center console cover, first for myself, and then potentially offering them through my business depending on how it goes. I just can't find any guide or how-to, and when I attempt to take measurements and make a paper pattern and tape it together (alloting for seam differences) it still comes out wonky. I am not against using a fabric sleeve so that only the top is tooled, but I would like to learn how to make both.
Thank you in advance!
Banjo Strap/ Cradle Strap Template
in How Do I Do That?
Posted
Danke schon!
Those two links are very helpful, thank you. I've been sifting through google myself and wasn't able to find anything. It's amazing how helpful a second hand of eyes can be. With all the difficulties of finding one, I'm thinking about creating and selling a banjo template if I can figure one out. Talk about a void in the market!
Thank you again for you help, and God Bless,
seasidesunflower