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Rickard

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About Rickard

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Norway
  • Interests
    History, different epokes

LW Info

  • Interested in learning about
    Leather craft
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Duckduckgo
  1. Thanks alot for your contributions, it highlight the trubble and the sulotion i think is to use a tread that loocks closest to the linnen tread. It is also nice to learn a little leatherwork history aswell, many thanks.
  2. hi, yes you are right its a 205-307 and thanx for your tip. i did try adjust the tension and different needle sizes but it didnt help. both 1 mm linnen thread with wax and without. i think i have the wrong machine to use real linnen thread but it would possible work with the singer 45k and the like. offcourse it would be wery cool to use real linnen thread on the project but for me its more importen that the tread loocks like it is a some sort ofold fasion linnen tread if you know what i mean. thanx for your links to.
  3. hi, thanx for your tip. the stuff i was planning to sew was a german bajonet frog and and a copple german field shovel covers.maybe later some frence field gear. i think the problem is that the 205-307 is so strong that none of the linnen thread will do, but i also my be wrong. maybe i should ask one of those who own a 205-307 if they have eny experience with this stuff.
  4. hello folks, i have a durkop adler 370-205 that can use tread up to 1 mm range. i was thinking making some ww1 stuff and the proxamently 1 mm [ no 10 euro seize] bounded nylon thread i use just dont look good an it frince alot to. i can put on wax and it looks a little better but still am not satisfied. i know that at around early 1900 and forward ww2 many machine used linnen tread but its weak and mine snapps right off so i have abounded that one. what kind of tread do you folk use?
  5. Rickard

    Arbor press

    Just remember that the stuff å magnet is made of can exploid in 1000 fragment and harm your eyes with the pressure a 1-3 ton abor press can gain. I use a one ton aborpress to cut/ make holes in leather craft and i seldom screw tools into it . I hold the tool i use steady in my hands and with a little practise it work out well. If i would purchase a new one today i would choose a 2 or 3 ton for the extra power.
  6. Thanx, i think im going for it. Price is ok also i think ca 1900$ Gonna change for a better sutable table.
  7. Good point, somthing in the Juki 1341 range i think? This used Adler is for sale here now, enyone that know this mashine? What model is it?
  8. Bumping this one im back to start with this purchase. I was going to purchase the used Juki LS 1341 from uk but there was alot of mess and i desided to get my hands on a new one here in my country instead. I saved up more and was redy to purchase the machine but then the salesman told Juki had stoped produsing the 1341 and empty all over EU. I had a long phonecall with the local seller and he lold they had many machines from a german brand Global and Adler. Adler is out of my price range but am considdering Global. the lokal dealer can easy get hands in spares if a repair is needed. Offcourse they didnt have eny cylynder arm machines there but i found a UK company that have a copple new ones to ok pricing i think. What do you folks think about these to machines here? I wonder what the difference of those two machines are?aoff the machine a clone off Juki LS 1341? Global WF 975 https://www.industrialsewing.co.uk/industrial-sewing-machines/walking-foot/is-382-global-wf975-industrial-cylinder-arm-walking-foot-global- Global WF 69 https://www.industrialsewing.co.uk/industrial-sewing-machines/walking-foot/global-wf69-373-cylinder-arm-walking-foot
  9. Yes the table, good point. Im thinking if i can get my hands in the mashine i can probbably order i new table from somwhere. I dont think the tables are so terrible expensive but i have to take a loock around.
  10. Thanks alot for your help folks, it really means alot to me. The juki shop in my hometown only offer new machinery am afraid and used ones dont float around other places here either. If i go for the one in UK i will use paypal and mastercard so i will be covered if somthing goes wrong. Freight can be risky but most often it turns out well. I ordered i Juki 8700H from Poland last winter, tok only 5 days and all good.
  11. I think i go for the used Juki LS 1341. There are a Juki service store in my town that i can call if a repear is needed. A new one are in price range proxamently 3650-3800 USD compered to the used one i faund in UK prox. 2000 USD. here is the machine on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174759267083?hash=item28b076cb0b:g:ENMAAOSw9Wlg1bq4 what do you think about the specs?
  12. Thanks alot for this info , im sure gonna have a look into it. I think i probbably start with a machine who can sew ca 4-10 mm range and move on later with a havier machine.
  13. Thanks for your answere. I have been locking on the Cowboy brand, but i think maybe it can be a problem if i need a repear on a machine like that where i live. I have found this shop in UK https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/castlesewingltd?_pgn=2 and they have several different Juki machines like Juki LS 1341 , Juki 245 and Juki 441. Enyone having experience with Castle sewing in UK England? will a Juki Ls 1341 or Juki 245 be good for leatherthickness 5-10 mm ? i think i read here some place thar Juki 441 are mostly set for fabrick/heavy canvas and not for sewing leather?
  14. Hello, are there eny machines that can handle from 5 mm up to 15 mm leather? Or do i need two different machines. I live in Norway so i think i need to import from UK or Poland. Im locking for a one needle walking foot flatbed or cylinderarm machine. Used or new.
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