Leescustomleather
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Posts posted by Leescustomleather
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This looks like a great resource, thank you
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Nice work and nice photography.
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4 hours ago, sheathmaker said:Lining the sheath is the ONLY way to be sure of no contact or scratches.
The screw on/in button studs will be much harder to get flush that the rivet style.
This is true, as an alternative you can skive around the hole for the stud on the inside, then case the leather at the hole before screwing down the stud, and add a little super glue to the threads so it won't come loose. Also, if the screw is brass, it won't harm a steel blade.
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You are doing it backwards apply the Resoline to seal the leather after dyeing then the paste after the resoline dries to get the color down into the tooling then wipe away the excess paste. after it t dries put on a final coat of resoline to seal. The first coat of Resoline seals the leather so the paste only dyes the tooling indentations. If a product has been working for thousands of folks for many years, then chances are it is not the product that is at fault.
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Steel Horse Leather.com
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Nice work I really love that border, and the way you fade the veins in the oak leaves, nice touch!
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If you stick packing tape on the back of the leather before tooling and burnish it down firmly it will keep the leather from stretching out of shape. It will raise the nap on the leather when you remove the tape, but you can slick that back down with your favorite leather finish.
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Very nice, is the piece in the back elastic? or nylon webbing? Also, would you mind telling me what those spring-loaded hooks are called? I want to make some for myself. That is a LOT of stitching.
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I no longer wonder how you are so darn good at leather work- I frequently say, no lesson is more valuable than having to redo an almost complete project.
You do phenomenal work, thanks for sharing.
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Both of those are quite nice, The only changes I might make is to not use white thread because with use it starts to look a little dingey and I would also use oval holes for the buckle tang. These things are very minor compared to the quality of your work, I wish I could do as good.
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Check out Prince Armory on You tube, I consider the best and great tutorials and patterns if you want
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I am not sure if this is what you are looking for, but a brush modified to only have just a few bristles with a thinned down paint might give the effect you want, kind of like shading but with color.
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I understand your problem, What I did was thinned the paint with water, 3 parts water and one part paint. Then added several coats to get the desired look.
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No photos ... No sale, I may be wrong but if they refused to give me photos I would just walk away
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On 8/25/2022 at 7:11 AM, chuck123wapati said:your video rocks!!! i finally found it. i think it works on the same logic, its adds some room for the leather to flex instead of compressing against the blade. I'm an old guy with flip phone so I don't do videos lol. maybe i can get my son to help me out. you know i was just thinking if a guy were o cut a piece of 4" pvc in half and slide it under his leather so he was cutting on top of a convex surface it would work pretty good for long straight cuts, i'm gonna try it .
Good Idea! Please let me know how that works out!
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It looks like you do very nice work, but the photos taken at an angle make it hard for the camera to focus on the whole image, or the proportions, like a photo of a tree taken from under the tree. I would love to have a clearer view.
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12 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:Always have it behind the blade not in front lol. Leather laying on a flat surface compresses the fibers into the blade, my guess is because cows are round not flat, causing drag when one side is lifted or even let hang over a table edge for example abates the issue.
I was only offering his video as a method that helped me and might help others. Perhaps posting a video of your method would help even more.
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2 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:I've found lifting the leather off the work surface makes it very easy to cut, i draw the lines pattern then as much as possible i hold the leather up off the table with one hand and cut.
Yeah, seems like that would have a similar effect, The only difference would be not having your hand near the cutting edge with Sam Andrews method, cutting leather is tough and anything that makes it easier or more accurate helps
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26 minutes ago, toxo said:Interesting cutting style.
It takes a little practice like anything, but works very well, especially for tight corners and radii. Also no going back over the same cut and doesn't require as much hand strength.
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7 minutes ago, AA3JW said:Other than just a lot of practice what is the easiest way to get good clean cuts on leather? Mine always seems to get "Wavey".
There is a youtube channel called Hank strange and a video called "Carjacker holster" The man that does the leatherwork is named Andrews and he has a unique method to cut thick leather easily, making tight corners cleanly and accurately. I have never seen this done elsewhere and this is the method I use all the time now
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And if it wasn't already confusing enough Springfield leather has a great selection of buckles at good prices and the quality is very good.
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4 hours ago, chiefjason said:I've used acetone with some success.
But my new plan is to buy it by the gallon and transfer it into 20 oz screw top plastic bottles. I bought a snap on lid that doubles as a funnel to empty the gallon of glue. Body Armor or Gatorade bottles work great. Those are strictly for storage. For use I transfer into a 4 oz squeeze bottle. I refill the squeeze bottle after every use to keep it full so it does not harden up. The screw top storage bottle will not harden if partially full. I'm currently on the same squeeze bottle and have emptied 2 of the storage bottles into it and the glue has stayed usable. The new glue seems to refresh the older glue. And the squeeze bottle makes application ridiculously simple.
Great Idea!!!
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The stamps don't seem to index with each other, so you end up with inconsistent spacing that results in disruptions in the pattern. Good starting point, they just need some refinement. I hope you stick with it, you show promise of great things to come.
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I have been using acetone for years with good results. It will even work after the glue is set for cleanup.
Vibrant Pink Color
in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
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Springfield leather has Fenice diamond waterstain in Fuchsia, all of the Fenice colors are vibrant if you mix some white with the Fuchsia you will have bright pink I have been using Fenice waterstains for about a year and I no longer buy Feibings. For the white I have thinned down the angelus paint and they mix well because they are both waterbased.