Piko

Thank you! I am not too new to leather craft but I just started with sewing machines. I like how this one sews. #16 needle with v92 looks good and holds strong. Just need to figure out the liner for the flap…I might have to use barge for that: that cement is the best but the fumes are a problem. We ll see. Thank you for the encouragement!

I narrowed down where things are gonna go and the only thing left to do is a laser cut the templates to precisely set the hardware and start production. But I do have one thing to iron out. I will line this clutch and i am not worried about the edges of the compartments without stitching them because I line my wallets and the adhesive does not come apart at the edges even after 3 years of use. I do worry about the flap. I do not like how it looks with the stitches around the edge. I like it without stitches. Any tips on glueing the liner for the flap? I do pre bend the flap before I glue them and an user here suggested me not ti glue the liner to the flap where it folds. But he stitches the sides. What would be the best way to do this if I plan mot to stitch the perimeter of the flap? Thank you. here a pic of what i mean. And one with stitches which i do not like.

I see what you did, you made yourself a stirrup plate. Thanks for the tips. I’ll get 2 or 3 in a few days cause i am leaving for italy tomorrow.

Nord California. I found this on Ebay. Looks like what you are talking about. Does it look right? Yes, I’ll do that, thank you.

Thanks for finding that. Yeah, $200 is not ideal but if it is what it is I am ok with buying that part. When I click the link it goes to the juki machine and not the part. Where did you find the part?

Thank you for spending time to show me which part you were referring to. I see what you mean but, honestly, that’s way above my skill level. I’d have to stop drinking coffe for a week and loose about 100 lbs so my stubby fingers could even grab that pin. i’ll look for alternatives for now but thanks again.

Lol

Ok so, I have used the trick shown by one of the members of this forum (thank you again) to backstitch into the same holes and it’s turning out great. What I don't understand is why the hole left by the needle is so big. I am Using Vinymo #8 for top and bottom which is supposed to be close to a v92. The outermost line was made by the #16 needle while the inner line was done with a #19 needle. I can barely tell any difference in the hole size and it still looks huge compared to the thread which looks very thin. The brown is the top stitch and the gray is the bottom. the leather is very thin Badalassi Pueblo which is very easily indented thats why there is the marks from the bottom hole on the feeding dog even though I greately reduced the top feet pressure. Anyhow, about the hole/thread comparison, please any suggestion? I don’t think I can fit a v138 through the eye of the #16 but I would like the hole to be smaller compared to the thread. Thank you.

That sounds like great advice. I didn't think I could change that hole. I have read elsewhere on this forum, which btw is amazing, and I have learned that I could change the pressure of the presser foot (of both presser feet actually) so I did and the dimple is much less noticeable. However, I would like to know hot to change the bottom transporter. I am not sure I know exactly what it is and, is it something I can do myself? Do you have any suggestion on where to find parts that work on my machine? I know it is aclone of a juki dsc246 but when I look on Amazon, ebay or jus tgoogle it nothing really comes up in terms of parts that I could be sure would be compatible. Thanks for your help.

So far I only bought those. I guess I'll stick to those. Thanks for the head's up.

Thanks!

I never even thought of that! Thank you!

Thank you! I've watched a video where the guy lifted the foot and lowered the needle to fit in the previous hole (like I see you do in this video as well) so I don't need a foo that lets me see better now. I'll look up the feet anyways to have them just in case. I see you swapped the feet when did the handle. Thank you again

Thank you I'll look the 111W feet up!!

Hey, thanks for the tips. Those are some good looking bags you make there. I also learned you can lift the foot and keep the needle down to do the back stitching: I never knew that! Again, I hand stitch mostly but these old bones od mine are clueing me to switch to machine so I am learning as I go. I don’t really know where to get needles. I mostly buy from Amazon and Sailrite but I dont see options often like LR or DI etc, most of the time if I find an #18 for example it will only be one kind, so either TRI or DI etc. never seen multiple options. Do you recommend a place to buy needles? I also need other feet etc but again, still learning as I go. The trick I saw you using in the video for the backstitching is really helpful. I ll try not glueing the fold, but I get the bunching even at the edges. Also, I saw not planning on stitching the sides of the lid, I wonder if nit glueing the fold except for the edges would still work if I dont stitch the edges. Yes, I ran one stitch line around the whole bag but was supposed to have the top stitch on the other side of the lid. I am still prototyping at this point. I was using an #18 needle with a 138 thread which is also not recommended but I like it better. So i hope that the not recommended #16 with the v92 will work the same but there is only one way to find out. if I can find a website with different needle options I’ll buy the LR. thank you for your time and tips. Much appreciated.

This is the foot my Sewing machine came with. My sewing machine is an Artisan 246. I cannot see the holes made by the machine well enough to backstitch right into them. Do I have options? Any suggestion to try out different feet? Thank you

Hi Hans, and thank you for making those points. I am new to stitching with sewing machines so I am still learning. so, I had just switched from a v138 to a v92 so the tension must have been off. Also, going from sewing through 4 layers of leather (2 plus 2 of liner) and then moving straight to sewing through jus t2 layers (1 plus liner) might have affected the tension as well. I might have to change the tension as I go from the thicker leather stack to the thinner one. Again, sill learning. If you have tips I am all ears. The ugly hole mark I have no idea why it happens. It happens with my Sailrite as well and people have said it is normal maybe because they dont know how to fix it but I am not sure. I am definitely using a leather needle. The one that pocked these holes was a Groz Beckert 135x16 TRI #18 which I think is a chisel with triangular shape. I suspect it may be the pressure on the walking foot to be honest: I will experiment with it once I get the new needles. As for the large holes I totally agree and I am trying to fix that. These were pocked with an #18 needle and a v92 (approximately) thread. I am waiting for #16 needles even though they are not recommended for that size thread, I am doing in an attempt to reduce the size of the hole left by the needle. Of course it could also be the tension hat stretches the thread too much. I am not sure. Again, any tips, I am all ears. Thank you for your time. Much appreciated.

Thank you! The wooden triangle is very well made, I wish I could take credit for it but I bought it from Etsy. I actually used it for the first time yesterday after having purchased it more than a year ago: i never lined objects that fold before. Here is the link to the triangle: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1504253838/leathercraft-triangular-prism-jig-mold?gpla=1&gao=1&&gQT=0

I had to google it because I did not know what you were referring to with the lacing thing. It looks nice. I am trying to move away from doing things by hand too much, that is why I am trying to implement my machine to sew. I 'll keep an eye out on the slipping needle at the edge of the leather. Thank you for the tips.

I already bought them from Sailrite but thanks for the website, I’ll save it for next time. So, I understand the thread recommendation about the #16 needle but, I also read that I should not put a v138 on an #18 and, to be honest, i think that combination works great on my machines. No skipped stitches and no tension problems that I can tell but I am no professional. The only problem I am having is when I backstitch even if I go in the same hole it messes up the bottom stitch but that happens even if I use larger needles keeping the v138. Also, I do use the vinymo on my Tippman Boss and Sailrite Ultrafeed. Since the not recommended v138 on the #18 needle works for me I am hoping it would be the same with the #16 and the v92 (Vinymo #8). I wont be able to tell until I receive the needles though What should I be looking for to see if the match is not a good one? Skipped stitches or anything else? Thank you for all of your help.

I get what you are saying about marking the last few stitches and adjust a little but at a time until the last stitch. Good idea. I’ll try it later. My reverse bar only reverses the direction it does not shorten the stitch (my Sailrite works as you described but not my Artisan) but I can try to line them up manually. i see your point with the stitching on the flap. I am debating. If I did the stitches like 2mm closer to the edge of the leather and get the stitches closer together, I think that would look good on the flap. Unfortunately my rolling guide cannot get closer to the foot without hitting it so i don't think i can stitch closer to the edge but I’ll look for a solution. In my mind, without stitches looks more refined but, I get what you are saying about the ‘incomplete’ feel when there are stitches on the gusset and not on the flap. I think getting the stitches a little closer together and closer to the edge may look good. thank for your help, much appreciated.

I do glue with the leather bent into shape. I still get bunching. Ironically, I even got deformation of the other shell leather when i straighten the flap open (after the glue has set). I wonder if edge paint would help covering the bunching at the edges of the flap. I normally don’t use use it but I have some Vernis at hand and tried it and it looks really good. Although I dont know if it would help my problem or make it worse. the handstitching the ends is clever: I did not think of that. So, I would just start seeing with the machine and just go forward (leaving long tails at start and end of the line) and then do the backstitching saddle stitching? Sounds great. I’ll try it thanks. Would you have any tips on getting the first and last stitch with the machine at the same distance from the edge of the leather (the top edge, not the sides, for that i use - guide). getting the first stitch where I want it is easier but the last one it really depends on coincidence based on how many stitches and how far apart. Is there a trick to get the last stitch exactly where you want it? thank you.

I ve found this at Sailrite.

Hey Kgg, Thank you so much for the info. I remember reading the needle sizes somewhere on the Artisan website and was searching through the manual etc but missed it right in front of me on the first page. Thank you for that. Now I just need to find the right needle. I am gonna look for 135x16 size #16 leather point, right? Thank you. i have used Vinymo for a long time for saddle stitching and it is my favorite. I was pleasantly surprised when I read it could be used for machine stitching because I know it is very strong as reliable. Thank you for your help.

Hi, I m having troubles with 2 things. 1) Bunching of liner. The liner is .9 mm and that is the thinnest ai can get. There is a place in Italy that can do 0.6mm - 0.7 mm but I don't have any at the moment so. I want to avoid bunching of the liner where the clutch’s flap folds. I read that stitching the sides helps but it does not seem true and, I would rather avoid stitching the flap for a cosmetic reason. I am using a water based contact cement called 1618b I think. I tested it against Barge Contact Cement and it holds pretty closely to it considering that it is water based. As for longevity of the bond I cannot attest to. My point is that the adhesive should not be the issue. Anyone knows how this can be fixed? 2) Back Stitching. I can’t seem to do it right. I wait until the needle is coming back up from the leather (Artisan 246) and I stop, press down the reverse lever, and then continue. I often miss the previous holes but I understand that is just lack of skills. However, when I do get the holes, the thread either gets bunched up on the bottom stitch side or it fails to make the knot. Anyone can suggest a solution for this? Thank you in advance.