Piko

I am pretty sure it is all of the above. Do you know where i can buy needles? The only place i know is Amazon or Sailrite and they only have those points.

The outer line is done with the #16 and a thread a bit larger than the v92. The inner line is the same thread with a #19 needle

Thank you! No idea how that happened.

I already changed it and, as you said, it made no difference with the size of the hole in the leather. Could you show me a photo of the hole in the feed dog of your 246? It is strange because I leather purses out there sewn with very thin thread, must be v92, and the hole left by the needle is unnoticeable. Mine is always very visible.

I got the replacement doggy thingy for my Artisan 246. The problem I am having is that the hole in leather is very large even with smaller needles. Someone said the hole in my dog feet thingy was too big so i bought another one. Looking at it, it does not look much different. What do you think, should I change the part on the machine? Would it be worth it?

Thank you! I am not too new to leather craft but I just started with sewing machines. I like how this one sews. #16 needle with v92 looks good and holds strong. Just need to figure out the liner for the flap…I might have to use barge for that: that cement is the best but the fumes are a problem. We ll see. Thank you for the encouragement!

I narrowed down where things are gonna go and the only thing left to do is a laser cut the templates to precisely set the hardware and start production. But I do have one thing to iron out. I will line this clutch and i am not worried about the edges of the compartments without stitching them because I line my wallets and the adhesive does not come apart at the edges even after 3 years of use. I do worry about the flap. I do not like how it looks with the stitches around the edge. I like it without stitches. Any tips on glueing the liner for the flap? I do pre bend the flap before I glue them and an user here suggested me not ti glue the liner to the flap where it folds. But he stitches the sides. What would be the best way to do this if I plan mot to stitch the perimeter of the flap? Thank you. here a pic of what i mean. And one with stitches which i do not like.

I see what you did, you made yourself a stirrup plate. Thanks for the tips. I’ll get 2 or 3 in a few days cause i am leaving for italy tomorrow.

Nord California. I found this on Ebay. Looks like what you are talking about. Does it look right? Yes, I’ll do that, thank you.

Thanks for finding that. Yeah, $200 is not ideal but if it is what it is I am ok with buying that part. When I click the link it goes to the juki machine and not the part. Where did you find the part?

Thank you for spending time to show me which part you were referring to. I see what you mean but, honestly, that’s way above my skill level. I’d have to stop drinking coffe for a week and loose about 100 lbs so my stubby fingers could even grab that pin. i’ll look for alternatives for now but thanks again.

Lol

Ok so, I have used the trick shown by one of the members of this forum (thank you again) to backstitch into the same holes and it’s turning out great. What I don't understand is why the hole left by the needle is so big. I am Using Vinymo #8 for top and bottom which is supposed to be close to a v92. The outermost line was made by the #16 needle while the inner line was done with a #19 needle. I can barely tell any difference in the hole size and it still looks huge compared to the thread which looks very thin. The brown is the top stitch and the gray is the bottom. the leather is very thin Badalassi Pueblo which is very easily indented thats why there is the marks from the bottom hole on the feeding dog even though I greately reduced the top feet pressure. Anyhow, about the hole/thread comparison, please any suggestion? I don’t think I can fit a v138 through the eye of the #16 but I would like the hole to be smaller compared to the thread. Thank you.

That sounds like great advice. I didn't think I could change that hole. I have read elsewhere on this forum, which btw is amazing, and I have learned that I could change the pressure of the presser foot (of both presser feet actually) so I did and the dimple is much less noticeable. However, I would like to know hot to change the bottom transporter. I am not sure I know exactly what it is and, is it something I can do myself? Do you have any suggestion on where to find parts that work on my machine? I know it is aclone of a juki dsc246 but when I look on Amazon, ebay or jus tgoogle it nothing really comes up in terms of parts that I could be sure would be compatible. Thanks for your help.

So far I only bought those. I guess I'll stick to those. Thanks for the head's up.

Thanks!

I never even thought of that! Thank you!

Thank you! I've watched a video where the guy lifted the foot and lowered the needle to fit in the previous hole (like I see you do in this video as well) so I don't need a foo that lets me see better now. I'll look up the feet anyways to have them just in case. I see you swapped the feet when did the handle. Thank you again

Thank you I'll look the 111W feet up!!

Hey, thanks for the tips. Those are some good looking bags you make there. I also learned you can lift the foot and keep the needle down to do the back stitching: I never knew that! Again, I hand stitch mostly but these old bones od mine are clueing me to switch to machine so I am learning as I go. I don’t really know where to get needles. I mostly buy from Amazon and Sailrite but I dont see options often like LR or DI etc, most of the time if I find an #18 for example it will only be one kind, so either TRI or DI etc. never seen multiple options. Do you recommend a place to buy needles? I also need other feet etc but again, still learning as I go. The trick I saw you using in the video for the backstitching is really helpful. I ll try not glueing the fold, but I get the bunching even at the edges. Also, I saw not planning on stitching the sides of the lid, I wonder if nit glueing the fold except for the edges would still work if I dont stitch the edges. Yes, I ran one stitch line around the whole bag but was supposed to have the top stitch on the other side of the lid. I am still prototyping at this point. I was using an #18 needle with a 138 thread which is also not recommended but I like it better. So i hope that the not recommended #16 with the v92 will work the same but there is only one way to find out. if I can find a website with different needle options I’ll buy the LR. thank you for your time and tips. Much appreciated.

This is the foot my Sewing machine came with. My sewing machine is an Artisan 246. I cannot see the holes made by the machine well enough to backstitch right into them. Do I have options? Any suggestion to try out different feet? Thank you

Hi Hans, and thank you for making those points. I am new to stitching with sewing machines so I am still learning. so, I had just switched from a v138 to a v92 so the tension must have been off. Also, going from sewing through 4 layers of leather (2 plus 2 of liner) and then moving straight to sewing through jus t2 layers (1 plus liner) might have affected the tension as well. I might have to change the tension as I go from the thicker leather stack to the thinner one. Again, sill learning. If you have tips I am all ears. The ugly hole mark I have no idea why it happens. It happens with my Sailrite as well and people have said it is normal maybe because they dont know how to fix it but I am not sure. I am definitely using a leather needle. The one that pocked these holes was a Groz Beckert 135x16 TRI #18 which I think is a chisel with triangular shape. I suspect it may be the pressure on the walking foot to be honest: I will experiment with it once I get the new needles. As for the large holes I totally agree and I am trying to fix that. These were pocked with an #18 needle and a v92 (approximately) thread. I am waiting for #16 needles even though they are not recommended for that size thread, I am doing in an attempt to reduce the size of the hole left by the needle. Of course it could also be the tension hat stretches the thread too much. I am not sure. Again, any tips, I am all ears. Thank you for your time. Much appreciated.

Thank you! The wooden triangle is very well made, I wish I could take credit for it but I bought it from Etsy. I actually used it for the first time yesterday after having purchased it more than a year ago: i never lined objects that fold before. Here is the link to the triangle: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1504253838/leathercraft-triangular-prism-jig-mold?gpla=1&gao=1&&gQT=0

I had to google it because I did not know what you were referring to with the lacing thing. It looks nice. I am trying to move away from doing things by hand too much, that is why I am trying to implement my machine to sew. I 'll keep an eye out on the slipping needle at the edge of the leather. Thank you for the tips.

I already bought them from Sailrite but thanks for the website, I’ll save it for next time. So, I understand the thread recommendation about the #16 needle but, I also read that I should not put a v138 on an #18 and, to be honest, i think that combination works great on my machines. No skipped stitches and no tension problems that I can tell but I am no professional. The only problem I am having is when I backstitch even if I go in the same hole it messes up the bottom stitch but that happens even if I use larger needles keeping the v138. Also, I do use the vinymo on my Tippman Boss and Sailrite Ultrafeed. Since the not recommended v138 on the #18 needle works for me I am hoping it would be the same with the #16 and the v92 (Vinymo #8). I wont be able to tell until I receive the needles though What should I be looking for to see if the match is not a good one? Skipped stitches or anything else? Thank you for all of your help.