ksteers

the deflection feels like more that 1/4 inch. All the 111w general manuals mention 224195. After digging i found the 111w103 manual and it makes mention of a 224103 fabric belt also. i believe it all depends on if there is a safetly clutch in there. I dont recall where this neoprene belt came from, I'll be calling Bob at Toledo Industrial later today. A Moderator can close this thread. Thanks y'all

I have replaced timing belts on numerous Singer 111, 211 etc. Generally when i remove the huge bushing behind the handwheel, the top shaft sags just a bit, allowing for easy belt installation. when replacing the Bushing, it pulls the belt tight as a drum head. this singer 111w101 (101 is overstruck with 103 tho) seems to have slack in the timing belt. it sews beautifully, but in my minds eye, it shouldnt be! This singer doesnt have a clutch mechanism. i purchased a Honeysew 224195 belt which i thought was good for all 111's etc. Curious if the belt tensions vary on some models? tx to all of you out here on this Forum! i learn much from reading rather than posting:-)

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Kombucha is a common health drink these days. I once tried turning the scoby into jerky. Do NOT do that, trust me. now you have me wondering if thin layers of the scoby, when dried could be tooled/ used as leather. Symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY)

Where in Canada Wayne? i am in northern wisconsin and have at least one 29-4 i could part with, and a durkopf 17-2-2 that appears all there including hook and bobbin. pm mefor details

find a used Hoyer lift on CL or FB marketplace. I recently saw that recommendation.

Left Handed drill bit, perhaps

if you sit on the other side of the machine, it works as it should. i bet you need to run it 'backwards' from your vantage point. Just my guess.

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Northmount, thank you for the assist. when i was attaching the linkies, i knew something didnt feel right Stay tuned. I am not going to rush this one!

I drove an hour and a half in Northern Wisconsin to pick up this unit. The kid knew nothing about it. Other than that was in the corner of the garage for all of his life. It almost looks like it’s covered in body shop, dust and in that last picture, it looks like it’s been scuffed, and at some point somebody was going to paint it, unless somebody else can school me I’m gonna try electrolysis soon . it looks to be all there; and yes, I know virtually no parts are available so I’m happy about that fact free if none of those links work, I’m gonna giggle and try again

I adjusted and timed both hooks, need to polish the left hook for sure, but the right sews as it should! still removing filth currently. how horrific is it to replace the pull-up lever on a Singer 145? one of the holes is rubbish and the thread will saw clear through in the near future. i may try running both threads through the same pull-up lever hole, as this was clearly run as a single needle for much of its life. now i am off to polish a hook, in place. fun stuff. I am enjoying the challenge

Hallelujia! mystery solved. Kudos Bob! And it seems to be the easier of the other methods for these beasts. Thanks to this whole community. I have learned So much lurking in the shadows. Cheers

Thanks both of you very much for your explanations and attachments, but I’m not sure this is adding up I’m gonna insert some pictures here. The threads in the end by the hand wheel are like screw threads almost quarter 20 but not, and it is not abundantly clear, where the heck the spring And ball bearing dealio are or are they on the other end of the Main shaft marked with an S ? thank you for your patience I just stuck a toothpick in the threaded hole and it is only 7/8 inch deep. and a dead end, unless i am an idiot. Still not sure of the model, honestly. currently thinking 145w201, which is why i posted a pic of the whole Shebang. currently stitching about 5 spi. perhaps i just live with it for now. and try to time the hook as is?

Wow. Thank you so much. And of course i am missing the spindle in the handwheel. But it looks like Toledo Ind Sewing has the part Fingers crossed. Hoping it has threads on it to go in my threaded handwheel.

I recently picked up a singer 145W204, and I need to time the left hook. The first instruction is to bring it to zero stitch length. The first instruction is to depress the top knurled knob on top and then depressing the button on the bed as well; my machine doesn’t look like the singer manual pic. Can somebody help demystify this ? there’s no knurled knob and no access plate on the front as pictured in the manual. Perhaps this is not a singer. I have located the screw with the S next to it; get a sense that plays into this as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

This is Precisely what i needed to hear!! I appreciate your insights. I am out of the running! Machine is near GreenBay wi if anyone is interested. Also Uwe, thank you for your wealth of knowledge you add here in this forum, as well as on YouTube!

I have a line on an adler 467. it is 3 phase, so could i just replace with a 110 clutch motor {or a Servo Motor before you jump all over me}:-) I trust the elka computer just runs off of 110, but can someone clarify. Can i just disconnect the pneumatic footlift and order a knee bar? tx in advance. Looking to do light to medium leather and or upholstery. In the pics it doesnt appear to have a reverse lever on the front. i wonder if that can be re-added in the event that , god forbid, i remove the programmable computer. OK, let me have it folks. thanks everyone, i have lurked on this site for years!

Noice!