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filluptieu

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Posts posted by filluptieu

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Hi filluptieu, hope all is well. The Singer 15-91 is one of many great sewing machines that Singer made. I didn't see a portable case or cabinet, which you will need to use the machine properly. Your best bet is to take it to a reputable dealer so they can do the work that needs to be done. Depending on how sophisticated the shop is, they should have the correct needles, and thread that you will need. There is a Schmetz leather point needle for home machines and different weight threads as well. You are pusing it though if you want to sew 2 4oz. pieces of leather together, it will do it but for how long? Hope this helps. Thank you, Steve

    Thanks steve for your input! can you explain why a cabinet or a case is needed? can it not just sit on a desk? and the 2 pieces of 4 oz leather its more like 3 oz and is only 5 inches long.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    I just purchased a Singer Model 15-91 from ebay. Here are some pictures of it.

    371825237.jpg

    371825238.jpg

    371825236.jpg

    I believe that is all it comes with.

    Now just to start, I am a novice when it comes to sewing machines, especially setting one up for light leather work. I know how to use a regular sewing machine on cloth and thats about it.

    My plans for this machine is to have it sew on a 13 inch zipper to a 3-4 oz piece of leather. And thats a single piece of leather. Maybe even stitch two 4 oz pieces together.

    My question as follows:

    1) I know with these older machines the grease tends to build up and needs to be clean and regressed, So should I go ahead and take it do a sewing machine shop to have it tuned up?

    2) I know I need to buy leather needles but which ones should I be using for the leather work I plan on doing?

    3) Whats a good solid thread that wont break easily on me, and is good on leather?

    4) Is there any other modifications I should do so that the machine wont completely crap out on me right away?

    Thanks Guys! Any advice would be awesome!

    Also, what should this thing be worth? and how much would it sell for?

  5. Posted · Report reply

    The best way to do this is to make your holes just big enough to put your post rivets into on the under piece so that they will stay in place. Do one side then the other, don't try to do both sides at once.

    Now set your rivets with the open leather laying flat.

    Then you want to ideally have a round iron bar in a free clearance sort of setup to set the closing line. The suggestion of using a v-notched support on each side is a good one but in a pinch you can support an iron bar between two stable surfaces - bricks, wood whatever and something like a towel under each end to keep it from moving.

    You can use a flat piece of iron if you like but make sure it's not going to crease your leather as you maneuver it on the bar. This is why I prefer the round piece.

    We have a welded X-stand that has four different bars sticking out of it - two flats and two rounds of different sizes for different application involving putting on rivets, snaps, and latches. This is more than you need for what you want to do here.

    Make sure that the iron bar is sufficiently thick so that your hammering on it won't dent it or bend it. I don't know jack about iron so I take a hammer with me when I go to the scrap yard looking for pieces we need.

    Another thing I would suggest is getting three or four GOOD heavy duty large clamps. These are expensive but worth their weight in gold around the shop. I can't tell you the amount of times we use an iron bar and clamp it to the work bench in various positions to be able to set rivets in funky positions and such or for some other purpose.

    You have one drawback with the way you intend to do this according to your drawing and by the time you read my reply you will have probably figured it out.

    It is that the leather will raise along the line where the two pieces are butted against other on the curve and look bad. What we do when we close the case in this way is to leave some room for the underpiece to lay down on the curve. I am at home right now or I would send you a picture of a piece we did to illustrate this. You can see it in action somewhat if you look at the pictures of the Palace Garden case that we profiled on here several months ago. On that case we did this type of closing method except that we chose to sew the seams instead of rivet them. You can see that we let underpiece (connector) also hold the strap retainers and side handle.

    Anyway, that's my advice for you. Hope it helps. Making cases this way is much harder than doing it the "envelope" way but I think much more rewarding.

    Thank you for chiming in John, What you mentioned was great and something i have been thinking about. By anychance could you take a quick picture of the stand?

    and the last part about the leather edge kinda of sticking out is something i actually didnt think about. well the diagram i made was a rough example but i wanted to make the two outer body pieces of leather touch each other so you cant even see the strip down the middle. so in you honest opinion do you think this would be an okay idea?

    Thanks for you help AGAIN! always giving great advice

  6. Posted · Report reply

    I use high impact styrene for my patterns. I was using it for stiffeners in rope bags and organizers and I starting using the remnants to make patterns with. I'ts pretty rigid, waterproof, color is white and easy to write on. Now I can throw these pattern templates on a piece of leather, trace around it and cut it out. I like to write instructions for myself on each of the patterns for reminders. It's available in 4x8 sheets (which will roll up) and is available in several thicknesses from plastics suppliers.

    Hope this helps...

    Bobby

    Hello Bobby, when you mention the styrene, isnt that thick? what do you cut it with? and whats a good place to get them at? is there a national chain thats a plastic supplier?

    Thanks guys for all the advice, I tried to use card board but they are to small... my pieces are atleast 32 inches long

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Ive been building cases for about 3 months now and have completed 3. Its an envelop style and I want to change it to an enclosed case.

    364625511.jpg

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    Now the thing is that I dont want to directly copy Mr Jack Justis, even though I love his cases and want to make a Tribute case.

    I have this as an idea and was wondering if you guys think its a good idea or a bad one.

    Its basically a enclosed case with two main pieces for the body and two thin strips for the connecting pieces. I want to have this on both sides of the case.

    371325903.jpg

    Also whats the best/ easier way to set the rivets if I do it this way, THANKS FOR ALL THE ADVICE IN ADVANCE!

  8. Posted · Report reply

    I started building cue cases and loving it as a hobby. Now their are some pieces for instance the main body that is wrapped around the body of the case and is riveted all the way down like an "envelope"

    Now ive recently been tracing it on parchment paper but down here in texas its so damn humid that the parchment paper started to shrink and shrivel up!

    Whats a better way of doing this? thanks guys!

    PS: maybe someone can get Jack Justis (my idol) to chime in on some advice! =)

    364625511.jpg

    364625479.jpg

  9. Posted · Report reply

    I plan on buying a singer 9410. its a old heavy duty sewing machine. Im only sewing through 3 oz leather, in which, the only thing I am sewing it to is a zipper... I believe it would be a waste to buy a tippman or something of that sort for only a zipper.

    Now I know a few of you have advised me to look for a shoe repair place or something but ive called 6 places and they told me for one zipper they would keep it for about a week! and everyone is to busy for something like that =(

    I noticed that tandy has a leather stitching needle for sewing machines. should i use that? and whats the correct size of thread to use?

    Thank you all in advance!

  12. Posted · Report reply

    okie dokie i am basically only need this machine to sew a zipper on a 3 - 4 oz leather. and its only a single piece of leather. and its a regualr zipper. I dont have alot of money and would honestly only need a machine that can do a simple stich, nothiing fancy. should i get one of those cheap omegas on ebay? and also what thread size should i be looking for? ive been using a hand stiching awl from tandy leather and want that same size, im sorry for the stupid questions but i have not idea where to start. please help

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Hello guys and gals! just signed up to join this forum. I am about to get my 3 vol. set of "The art of making leather case" and excited! I am planning to build cases for billiard cues as a hobby and maybe if i am lucky enough to make some for other players!

    I know im going to be in here to ask alot of questions so I hope you guys can lead me the correct way!

    thanks you all!

    Phillip Tieu

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