CalgaryJim

Thanks! Sorry for the late response, I should go on to this site more often. The colour is gold. I use inverse pricking irons on the same side of the strap, the top layer, but opposite from the regular pricking irons. That way the slants and therefore stitching can run the opposite direction instead of one side slanting out and the other side slanting in. It just looks better in my opinion rather than this: ////////// ///////// It will look like this: ////// \\\\\\ Or I can use regular and inverse to achieve a slanted in look: \\\\\\\ /////// Now, having said this, I made a mistake on my straps because I have the long strap stitch lines slanted in on both sides, but on the short strap I have them slanted outward.

I hadn’t used this leather before so I ordered some from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. It’s harder to skive than I’m used to with veg tanned leather. I also for the first time used inverse pricking irons as well as regular ones, also from RMLS. Those leave holes that are more oblong than the rectangular holes I get with my Tandy Pro pricking irons. I prefer the latter shape but Tandy doesn’t sell inverse ones. Happy with the results though except that I just noticed the stitching on the shirt strap is angled outward, on the long strap it’s angled inwards, lol. 2.7mm pricking irons, 1mm Degermann Baranil Leather, Velodon reinforcement fabric, 1mm Haas’s Zermatt leather for the liner, Tandy Eco Flex Edge Coat edge paint, 0.45mm RMLS waxed linen thread, Barge All Purpose cement. Unfortunately I only have this photo of the straps ready to be given to a watchmaker friend as a thank you gift.

Best YouTube channel on leather work in my opinion, he’s very thorough and does lots of comparisons!

You are mistaken, quick release springs bars are not universal sized, and even Seiko watches don’t all use the same spring bar size. Same with Marathon, for example, my 34mm General Purpose Quartz Marathon has a fixed bar. Quick release spring bars are easy to remove by the way, no need to break the handle off. No strap makers will give you such a guarantee.

Excellent work! I’ve been making leather straps as a hobby for a year and a half now and know how hard this hobby is.

Good to know about the dog collars, thanks. The Cordovan calf is more expensive than other leathers I’ve bought but not nearly as expensive as shell cordovan. I have straps made from Shinki Shell Cordovan, I quite like their finish. The Cordovan calf so far looks very similar. I don’t use much leather to make watch straps so the price is fine for me…even with my two failures using it so far. Hopefully my current attempt, gluing the Velodon with two layers of Barge cement, holds. And I’m skipping the padding too.

In order to have the strap conform properly to then stitch, from every video I’ve seen, you need to press the leather down with a bone first. But maybe clamping the sides would work also. I just realized what you are see is Salpa, it’s on top of the Microfibra, I added it because the latter didn’t provide enough thickness. I could try Salpa only though, or use natural veg tan leather which I tried once before with some success. I also bought some Saba but it’s very soft, I don’t think it would have the body I would like. The leathers I use are 1.0mm thick, not sure what that translates to in ounces. The Cordovan calf leather is quite strong, that’s likely why I couldn’t get it to form, maybe I should try making the straps much wider, then form and stitch, then trim to shape. Or just make padded straps with softer veg tan leathers. I don’t want to have it thinner than 1.0mm though for concern about strength.

I am having a heck of a time trying to make padded watch straps. I’ve used natural veg tan as padding, and just now I received some Luigi Carnevali - Microfibra Reinforcement from RMLS, I made it narrower than the straps but can’t get the leather to conform (flatten) enough at the sides in order to stitch the top layer and lining together. I’m using a stainless steel bone too. Maybe I need to use a thinner leather on top, or softer leather than the Minerva or Cordovan calf that I’ve tried. Any and all tips are welcomed.

Thank you so much! This wick has no weave at all. Now where to source one. Google is bringing up lots for oil lamps, fibreglass weaved, cotton weaved too. Is one material better than the other?

When I use my alcohol lamp, it gives off smoke which blackens the creaser. The wick that came with it from WUTA is some synthetic fabric. What am I doing wrong?

“..saddery@ gmail”, or “saddlery”?

I hadn’t been able to find anyone selling acrylic templates in a 20/16mm taper so contacted Buzzard Brain Leather on Etsy and the owner Will was kind enough to design a one off for me in that taper and length of 105 and 65mm. Same cost as his ready made sizes too. They arrived within a week from Louisiana to Alberta and they are very well made, unlike some Ali Express ones I received in the past (20/18 and 18/16 regular length.There is enough overhang for the spring bar and buckle flaps that I’ll be able to cut 110 and 70mm lengths as well.

Thank you,

I found someone who was willing to make me an acrylic template set for 20/16 taper, 105mm and 65mm long, Buzzard Brain Leather on Etsy. He had to make them from scratch as he didn’t have a set of drawings he could use. I’m happy to report they turned out quite well and he only charged me the same price as his regular templates.

Thanks for the info. I’ve been using Zermatt leather for lining but I’ll have to order some Alran sully next. Did you colour it yourself?