ebarber

Sold!

I have a 6" American leather splitter for sale. $1200 plus shipping to you actual shipping cost insured with shipper of your choice. I refurbished this splitter myself and it is in beautiful shape with all original parts and professionally reground blade. I completely disassembled this machine, degreased, sand blasted all parts (except for the drums) and repainted with industrial paint. I refurbished and painted this unit as I would like it because I had planned on keeping it myself but, the one that I am using I realized had a crack in the large drive gear so I decided that it worked fine for me but might be hard to sell because of the crack......so I decided to go ahead and sell this one. Any questions please feel free to ask. This machine is located at my shop in Newark Ohio so It would be able to be picked up from me here if you would like to save on the shipping costs. I have a TON of time in this machine and refurbished the machine as if it were going to be my own. I am a very good mechanic with all the tools so buy this machine with confidence! Please let me know if you would like any more pictures or different angles. First come first serve. If you want to do paypal I have to charge the paypal fees but I will also take check or money order and will ship upon clearing. Thanks, Eric

Thanks! I usually do a shorter one but with the length of that barrel I felt like the norm just wasnt enough.

Thanks! The Black cherry is Hermann Oak that I hand dyed. The plain black one is Wickett & Craig pre dyed from the tanner.

Very nice!

Thank you!

Glock 34/35 Has A Brother in black cherry with shark....till He Leaves Tomorrow:-(

Very very nice!

I do like a shield depending on the ride height of the gun. I know whenever carrying IWB on a hot day, anything that isnt covered by the guard has a little sweat on it after taking it off. No big deal for me as I mostly carry Glocks but if a guy was carrying say a blued 1911 or similar he might have a problem after a short perod of time. I include them on all of my IWB holsters and a few of my owb's. I have had a few requests to cut them down which isnt a big deal and its alot easier than adding them after building them.

Would like to know how the Zack White works out also. I use mostly Hermann Oak but have been getting some WC pre dyed in black which has been working out pretty well. The predyed WC finishes out very nice and seems to stay harder after forming. Its a little more pricey but worth it as I can go right into making it insead of waiting for dry time.

I used to have that same problem when I started out. I found my problem was that I was letting it soak in my dye to long. I dip mine in a vat for about 3 seconds (for black) blot it and let it dry. Different colors at different counts for different shades. I use an alcohol based dye so Im not sure if oil would be different. After drying I buff buff buff with a buffer, stitch, form, work my edges then buff again. At this point it shines so much it looks like its finished. Then as the last step I spray it (seal).

I prefer the alum vs the rings. The alum dummys usually need a little dremel work when you get them but they last forever. The plastic ones seem to crack on me after so many presses. Especially ones with thin trigger guards...EX 1911's I also like to use removable machined sight tracks which usually put a hurting on the front sights of the plastic dummys.

I use a homemade spindle sander for my heavy sanding then a dremel with a hand piece for my small or light detail stuff.

I use an adler 205

Thank you! Just keep at it and you will. Although I think im getting closer Im still not quite where I want to be yet. Im still learning and I think I always will be. You know before I started I thought how hard can it be? Now that im into the craft its amazing how complex it actually is. I never would have dreamed that wrapping leather around a gun could be such a complex process. Wouldnt trade this job for the world! I dont see how anyone could ever get bored with it.