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I posted this on an old thread but for people that might be looking for maintenance and timing info for a Consew 206RB-5. This will be a super deep dive, and I mean DEEP! I found this video on YT.. Consew 206RB 5 Maintenance Video Part 1 and that means there is also a Part 2 Consew 206RB 5 Maintenance Video Part 2

I have a Consew 206rb that has been a great machine however, lately I have had an issue with the lower tension being too tight no matter what I do. I have loosened it off as far as it will go and tightened the top as far as it will go and the bottom thread is still laying flat. I feel like I have tried everything under the sun. I am hoping that someone has some advice for this as it is so frustrating!

My Consew 206RB-5 has decided it doesn't want to turn on! I was working on the machine a few days ago and no problems. I checked the outlets and circuit breakers (all working), turned it on/off, let it rest for a bit and restarted the process. Nothing. There's no smell coming off the servo motor and the pedal depresses just fine. Any ideas??

Hi, i'm new here, but have been reading tons of posts on this forum. What a great resource. I have just recently acquired an old Consew 206rb-3 from a local manufacturer that let me have it at a bargain. Part of the deal of course was that it needed a tune-up in a bad way. I am quite comfortable with this machine as I used to own a seiko sth-8bld-3 which I believe is almost identical. I have been having a couple problems with it. When I received it, it was way out of time; the hook was almost 45 deg. out. Fixed that up, checked all the other proper adjustments, needle bar height, bobbin opening lever, feed dogs etc. It sewed alright during my first quick test but since I began to put it to use I have noticed a few problems. 1) The tension release does not seem to be working properly. When I have no material under the foot and I engage the knee lift, I can see the thread tension release lever move slightly and very slightly move the tensioner, but if I have material under the foot and engage the knee lift, it does not want to actually release any tension from the thread and I have to pull the thread through by hand so as not to break it trying to pull the work out. I took the tensioner assembly apart and it looks to me like the rod that engages the lever is perhaps worn out. I will try and post a pic. Is this something that has happened to anyone before? Is there any other parts that wear out that would cause the tension release to not function properly? It appears that the parts on the back of the machine that push the rod forward are ok, but I didn't remove them all to inspect them closely. Do you think I can find someone online who can order a new one for me? I live in Vancouver, Canada and the only industrial machine supply here is Mason and their prices are through the roof. I also need to get a wider selection of feet, bobbins and needles so I'll try and get it all from the same place. 2) I am having trouble getting the forward stitch length to match the reverse stitch length. I read Wiz's thread on this, but I had no luck getting his method to work on my machine. I was able to drop the vibrating presser foot but it didnt have any positive effect on the fwd / rev stitch lenths, and cause some sort of binding in the walking mechanism. ( I could feel slight resistance while turning the hand wheel) The seiko manual says that I can increase / decrease the reverse / forward stitch length by changing the position of the feed regulator cam (accessed from the top of the machine under the oil wicks). This does in fact work, and if I put the cam way out of where it supposed to be aligned (maybe 8 deg. off the alignment marks) then I can get the forward and reverse stitch lengths to be equal HOWEVER, as a result of the feed regulator being out I have a problem with the feed dog ascending above the throat plate before it has completed its forward movement. So, the material takes a small movement towards you as the needle is coming up and then is drawn back with the feed dogs return movement. This gives a quite jerky feed as the material is moving a bit forward and then back. Does anyone know how this can be remedied? I have made the other adjustments as per the manual and the machine either feeds the material properly but the fwd /rev stitch length are different OR the fwd/rev stitches are the same but it can't feed the material properly. Is there a possibility that something else is out of whack? That the walking and feeding timing has somehow been changed relative to everything else? I know this is complicated and hard to explain. I have attached a couple of images from the manual to show you more, but perhaps an expert out there has some idea. Thanks In Advance. Hope to get this machine going so that I can start creating again.

I would appreciate some advice here. I have a Juki DNU-241 walking foot machine. I have been using it for about 3 years to sew mainly bags, briefcases and other medium weight leather goods. I use 138 and 207 bonded nylon or polyester thread with it. The problem I have is this machine is so unpredictable for me. I have had very few occassions to use it when I didn't have to stop what I was doing to problem solve. The tension has been difficult to perfect for me. I am not a novice and feel as though it shouldn't be this hard. Some of the issues I have had with it are: it regularly shreds and breaks my thread, will sometimes bunch up or skip stitches, if I tighten the tension ALOT it will sometimes sew a little better but is nearly impossible to remove from the machine then. I have adjusted the timing at least a dozen times. The reverse is also unpredictable and you can feel a "jump" when the machine reverses and those stitches usually look crappy. A couple months ago I decided to put all machine stitched projects aside (they were being mangled anyway) and focus on getting this thing in a much more workable condition. I ordered parts and replaced the tensioner dials on the front. This did not help much so I replaced the entire hook assembly with very little gained from that. After adjustments in every other area I could find as a potential source of problem, I finally decided to call a professsional. Lol! I had a repair man who specializes in commercial machines come from 2 hours away to fix it. He spent several hours at my house working on it but never got it to sew the way he wanted it. He was perplexed (but that actually made me feel a little validated, lol). He took the machine with him to continue working on it. He contacted me about two weeks later and reports that he has been able to get my machine running forward and backward but with 138 size thread only not 207. I guess I'm ok with that, but it should be able to handle 207 is my understanding. Now, here is where I need advice as well....... I am going to pick up the machine next week. I am a little hesitant and, frankly, fed up with this machine. I know the Juki is a good machine but I pretty much want to throw it out the window most days. He tells me that he has a Consew 206rb5 (or maybe 4, he said the plate is missing) that we could possibly do a trade on. I will probably need to do something different with my table but I'm sure my servo motor will work the same with the consew (right?). He says the consew machine is running well and from what I can find it seems comparible to my Juki in as far as it will handle the same weight/thickness of leather. Is this machine less persnickity? More like to actually just sew something when asked? If in my shoes would others consider this to be a wise move? Thank you so much for your time and advice!!! Patty

I'm new to sewing leather. I want to start by recovering some leather seats. I found a Consew 206RB (no version number) with a table and clutch motor for $500.00. Someone cut off the Made in Japan part of the nameplate as you can see in the picture. I don't know if the RB was made any other place. It came with 4 cording feet, R&L zipper feet , the regular walking foot and 12 bobbins. I assume this machine is 30+ years old, but looks like it just came out of the box. No paint wear, no rust, very tight tolerances, turns easily by hand, but dry as a bone. So the first thing I did was lube every oil hole and everything that moved. But I don't see any requirement to lube the bobbin case, or procedure to do so. So do I, and how if so.

Why do I get these awful puckers when I sew waxed canvas with my Consew 206RB-3? The company that makes the fabric says it is a tension issue but I cannot resolve it. If I loosen the top thread any more there will be loops on the underside. If I loosen the screw on the bobbin the screw falls out. Other people's work doesn't seem to show this puckering.

Is it normal to get a noticeable amount of lint in the tension discs? It's the same color as the thread I'm using. There is lint in the top thread discs as well as the discs for the bobbin winder. This is a Consew 205RB-3, and the thread is polyester, size 92.

Please let me start with "Hello", and I'm sorry for the bother.... I started this journey a year ago and found leatherworker.net when first searching online for " sewing machines that sew leather" Since then I have purchased a SINGER 212g140 ( but only set up as a single needle ) and a SINGER 29-4( an old patcher in good working condition!) ( that I cannot get to sew a straight line so I just keep because I think its awesome:) I sold my truck to purchase supplies and leather to start a business to help support my special needs daughter ( I am still employed, my husband is employed, and we have two other vehicles) I knew one day I would have to stay home with her, which actually happened 5 months ago when she fractured her skull. I am very fortunate to be able to work from home now- but it is difficult at best to leave the house with her to learn anything. My biggest adventures out of the house are trips to Tandy on Saturday mornings:) I literally knew NOTHING about sewing or leather or my chosen craft when I started this journey.. my ultimate goal was to make supplemental income to fund special schools and therapy that I knew would be needed. ( I refuse to let others pay for my responsibility when I am capable of doing so myself, ie tax payer money....)This was what made sense to me. I wasn't going to try a pyramid scheme or selling avon if you know what I mean. It had to be working from home, so forgive me if you are wondering " why the heck would she choose this without existing skill or a source of apprenticeship?" Any who, here I am, a room full of top quality leather, much custom ordered, when I decided that if I was going to finally take the big leap I had to purchase a top quality machine made for this purpose. A walking foot with NO ISSUES OR SERVICE NEEDED. With REVERSE. So I bit the bullet and ordered a brand new CONSEW 206rb-5. It arrived Tuesday, smelling of oil and with its test strip of fabric underneath its feet. After setting up, I began to sew( although intimidated and Leary of injuring the beast) and to my dismay a few things... ( here I finally get to the point... but please understand I am self taught, have read every manual, searched every thread, and every available youtube video.. and am still at a loss and begging for your expertise...) In reverse it seems to twist and loop its thread?!? and barely get into the same holes? I thought this machine could accurately pierce the same holes made when sewing forward directions???? It looks like crud! And I am far to inept to correct the issue myself:( Now I am reduced again to twisting my work backwards to back tack, which is what I purchased this machine to avoid. Further, GOOD GRIEF the amount I have had to tighten the top tension when switching to 2-3oz leather ( doubled up to make 4-6)!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And If I backtack more than once the top thread breaks!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WHAT AM I DOING WRONG??? Tears flowing.......:*( I just cannot see why I would have to adjust the bobbin tension, and certainly I do not know more that the dealer that set it up! I had to adjust the top because the bottom thread lies flat across the bottom on the thick leather. Using 69 bonded nylon thread top and bottom, dpx17 needle, and tears to lubricate ...sigh... thank you for any help you can offer. I know that no one wants to feel bad for someone with a brand new machine, more like I don't deserve it if I cannot operate it properly. I know its my error, but have no one to teach me.

Hello, I just got my first industrial sewing machine, a consew 206rb-5. Im using #69 nylon thread and 135x16 needles. I just got my tension to where my stiches are balanced but the needle tension is so tight that I can't pull the top thead without first pulling some slack after the spool pin scew. The spool pin screw is the source of the super tightness. I've never had to tighten the tension on machine this much before and im worried I'm doing it wrong/gonna hurt her parts some how. Can someone reassure me that this is correct or point me in the right direction of how tight the tension should be? Thanks everybody!