"Phoenix Clutch Purse"

[Billsotx]

I read a post the other day describing the use of wood stain to make dyes. I suspect that the liquid antique stains by TLF are probably wood stain from the odor. I've used Walnut and Mahogany wood stain, but put a resist down before I applied it and got results similar to what you've done here, except it dries a lot quicker than paste so I tend to use paste. I'll look for that post on dye making and bring it over here if I can find it. I don't think it was on this forum. Wood stain is certainly worth experimenting with, but this guy was recommending it as more cost effective.

[GampasShop]

I may have to play around with it. I do woodworking also and have several partial quarts of stain in my shop. One thing with the woodstain is that most are not that far apart in color vs the leather stains that I see in the Tandy Catalog now. The difference in Dark Brown and Med. Brown is very drastic.

Ok, so what is and what does the "Resist" do?

[Billsotx]

It applying one of those finishes like Tan-Kote, Bag-Kote, Resolene before the antique so that you have more time to work with the antique before it sets up. Try to keep as much resist out of the depressions as possible so that the antique penetrates them better and quicker. I usually apply two coats of resist and let it dry at least 2 hours, over night is better. Gob the antique on heavy and don't work it too much or it'll desolve the resist if it's a water soluble. I'm applying the antique paste with shearling and whiping it off with a damp paper towel. I think George Hurst told me that one. The paper towel has a bit of rigidity to it, unlikely shearling it floats over the depression so to speak and doesn't drag the antique out. All that said you probably should stay with whatever you're doing. It looks real good to me.

Thanks for your reply. Looking forward to seeing more of your work. Especially if you finish it with antique like this one. ......... later........