Do you sew the body of the holster moulding

[Jordan]

Do you sew the body and trim if any, of the holster prior to, or after, moulding the leather? the 1st one I did was sewn after moulding because I could not figure out the space needed between the seam and the handgun that would allow for the space needed to do the moulding and end up not being to tight or to loose. My guess is the thickness of half the pistol plus the thickness of the leather? hope this question makes sense it's early and has been a very long night. Jordan

[Go2Tex]

I mould before I stitch. But, I don't mould the back piece. That way, like on a pancake holster, it stays open for re-holstering the gun.

[Randy Cornelius]

Here is what I do. Not saying I am the expert but this is what works for me for 90% of the hosters that I make. Some require some special considerations. One being the 500 S&W. That is a whole nother topic. As you have to add welts on that big gun. On a normal handgun I start by making the pattern. I use file folders, open the folder and find the fold line. Stand the gun up on the fold line on the sights. Then lay the gun over to the right. Draw the outline of the gun, marking the rear sight, trigger and trigger guard along the reciever and the barrel. Now to the line you just drew add 3/4 -1" . If the gun has rounded features like a revolver or some of the slim line autos like a 1911 stick with the 3/4 inch. If you are doing one of the squared off type guns like a glock add 1". Now decide if you want an open top, thumb break, covered trigger guard etc and draw the added features. Then cut out the outline that you have drawn on the right side. Now fold over the pattern and draw the pattern on the left side of the folder. Cut this out and you have your pattern. If you are sewing by hand you do not need to add anymore to the pattern. If you are using a sewing machine like I do. I add another 1/4 inch to the backside of the pattern. Most of this is trimmed off after sewing but the sewing machine will tend to turn the material under and it is best to have just a little extra sticking out when you sew. But just in case it moves you will have matterial on the back side so it will not roll under.

As far as molding I always mold after I sew. I try not to wet the back side of the hoster as I want to mold from the front side. I first cut a small piece of leather about the same size as the front sight and tape that along the barrell about 1/2 way down the barrel, this will give you a front sight grove for the front sight. I oil the gun well, wrap in plastic wrap and work it in the hoster and use a bone creaser or other molding tool to get the fine detail. I will leave the gun in the wet leather for about an hour or less. After that carefully remove the gun and let dry. Trim off any excess, round the edges, burnish and finish the edges etc.

Some of the higher end holster makers will use gun molds and presses to get the fine detail but a small shop cannot afford to have an aluminun or other blank of every gun that is made. At least I cannot. All of my customers have been pleased with the way I make them for the price I charge.

Hope this helps

Good luck with your project.

Randy

[K-Man]

Contact BruceGibson, he's a member here. He has available/sells a tape/dvd by Dusty Johnson on holster and sheath making that will give you the basics. It even includes some patterns. Bruce's website is www.gibsonprorodeo.com, if you can't find him here.

[Jordan]

great info guys thanks, doing the holster molding as seperate pieces and sewing after as I did my 1st one seems prone to errors in fit, so I will be trying a method I have been working out in my head, 1st, using blueguns as a pattern (5 different models to start with) measure from centerline of the gun in both directions by rolling the gun from the slide/sight portion to the left then the right and add the thickness of the leather. Mark and cut my front and back pieces and an extra piece for trim that will also hold the mouth open, then sew the whole thing together on my neels machine. Place the bluegun in wet leather and place it in an antique cast iron bookpress between two pads of gum rubber and crank it down for awhile. Then take it out and finish boning the details by hand. Remove the bluegun let dry then finish, burnish etc. As you can see there are alot of things I will need to work out as far as wet mold time, measuring, fitting so as not to be too tight or loose, where to place the stiching in relation to the pistol etc,etc, anyway I appreciate any and all feedback. I have a line drawing of a sideview somewhere I downloaded in essence the holster will be molded on both sides with less detailed boning on the back so it will sit closer to the body. Found the photo thanks to whoever originally posted it.

Edited October 28, 2007 by Jordan

[Jordan]

well maybe lay the bluegun on the leather at the angle needed then measure half the thickness of the barrel add the leather thickness on both sides to that and sew at that point? I guess I will have to try a few before I find the right spot to put a sewing seam that leaves enough leather for molding around the gun for a proper fit. Lucky I have scrap from other botched ideas.

Edited October 29, 2007 by Jordan

[Luke Hatley]

Jordan, I have been known to use spring clamps to pull the

leather down around the item that i am moulding to establish the sewing line

you can lay down a strip of leather to keep from marking the

leather.

[Srigs]

I generally wet the leather and hand form the two pieces to get the appropriate shape and then stitch. Lastly hot wet form around the gun or form and then finish boning.