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Randy Cornelius

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About Randy Cornelius

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  • Location
    LaCygne, Kansas
  • Interests
    I do all kinds of leather work. Saddles, tack, personal items belts, gun leather, you name it, and I can make a buck I'll do it in leather.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saddles & Tack
  • Interested in learning about
    Extreme embossing
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Years ago Internet

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  1. Sheridan Style was basically created by Don King, Sheridan, Wy. If you look at King's tooling it is very tight patterns with little background area. He made his own tools to do this style as he needed steep bevelers to get into these tight areas as well as Thumbprints that are basically a long and narrow pearshader just to name a couple. All the early saddle makers had their own style and made their tools accordingly to fit that style. The Porter Style came out of the Porter Saddle shop in Arizona and Vista (Spanish Influnce) in California, it had big flowers with big leaves and tended to have a lot of background area. Now we have several styles that influence tooling, Northwest (Jessie Smith) Texas, (Jim Linnell) just to name a couple. And there is Randy's style, which is what I use. I try not to copy one specific style but incorporate several different styles to make my own.
  2. It was about 1973 or close to it, I had an art teacher in grade school that had a 6 week course on leather work. I got hooked, got a Tandy Leathercraft kit for Christmas that year. Over the years I have picked it up and laid it aside but whenever I needed a belt, wallet or something for the horse I got it back out. Got my first cell phone in about 1995 or so. That cheep holder that came with it would not do so I got out the tools and made one. Everyone saw it and wanted one. My business started there. I was basically self taught, Just Al Stohlman and all the books and pattern packs I could afford. I got the internet in 1996 or so and found that there were others who did leather too. I learned from those I became friends with through the IILG and later this forum. Went to my first IFoLG show in 2005 and got hooked showing and then later as a judge. My son won the Ann Stohlman Youth Award in Leather Craft. I am retired now and basicly just work in my leather shop, It keeps me as busy as I want to be. About the time I get caught up the phone rings and I get busy again. My hobby has turned into an obsession As a side note I used to be on Leatherworker all the time and I have kind of drifted away but I plan on coming back and hanging around some more. Maybe just to lurk.
  3. I had an art teacher who did a 6 week class on leather work, I was hooked. Got a Tandy kit for Christmas that year and as they say the rest is history.
  4. Springfield leather buy large lots of c grade from HO but HO cannot fill all of the order with C grade and has to fill it with B grade. I think that he fills the orders to large institutions with the C grade and holds the B grade back for people like us to use. It's hard to get an A grade with American Cattle right now.
  5. I don't like to put products down but I would stay away from the boss as a first machine, I had one and they are somewhat hard to stay adjusted. I would suggest spending a little more money and get one of the Juki 440 clones that several vedors sell. It will be money well spent. They will sew light weight material from about 5 oz all the way up to 3/4 inch of skirting stacked. You can use a flat bed with them to sew garment as well as heavy stuff. Just my oponion. RC
  6. Wet edges, slide the bar soap across the edges to lay down the fibers, then take a piece of canvas or blue jean material and work in the saddle soap from can into the cloth or canvas then rub edges briskley until you get a slick finish. Seal with edge dressing...
  7. Check out Springfield Leather. just google them they have a great web site and carry Herman Oak as well as imported leather. Then there is Wickett and Craig in Currensville Pa great leather too.
  8. There is a reason they quit making them. lol
  9. Brass or Stainless would be the best material with leather as they both will not rust, rust is the thing that leather does not like.
  10. I for one think you did good for your 1st or 2nd project, and if you like it then that is all that really counts. With practice comes improvement. Like you said you need to do better with the edging. Get an edger and take off the square corners, then dress it up with some 80 grit sandpaper,(this makes the fibers stand up) wet the edge and run a bar of saddle soap over them. (this mades the fibers lay down in all one direction) Then burnish them with a piece of canvas or old blue jean materal with cream saddle soap on it. Then re dye and use something to seal the edge, I would also suggest you get some lighter weight leather to make your interiors with. Or you can buy them pre made from Springfield leather for around 8-9.00 apiece. I would suggest some 2-3oz pig or calf skin for liners. You did a good job on the sewing but might suggest some smaller thread next time. You are off to a real good start. Keep up the good work. RC
  11. You sold the machine you needed. The Juki 440 clones are one of the best all around machines. You might get by with a flat bed machine if you don't sew anything over 8=10 oz. I think I can get like 1/2 inch under my foot but it is all it wants to sew.
  12. I'll have to go out to the shop and get my weaver cataloge, I know I order mine from weaver, just got to look at the stock number. Will get back with you later. RC
  13. I would say it was made by any number of saddle makers that was under contract with Sear Robuck in the 50's at the time. Most were not marked as they were most likely bought through sears mail order at the time. But that is just a guess. RC
  14. Leather Wranglers has a good video on thier web site on how to sharpen a swivel knife that can explain it better than any. I would have to agree that the blade was not sharpe, leather had something to do with it and that the knife was dragging in the leather. RC
  15. Any water or lacqor basised wood finish you find at the home center will work for a edge dressing after you slick your edges. You can get several small containers 1/2 pint and try several to see which ones work the best. That way you dont' have to order 32 oz of laquer and pay shipping.
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