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Good afternoon everyone.  I am new to leather working but have a few projects I am getting ready to start and would like to make sure I get the materials I need that will work.  

My first question is when it comes to dyes.  If I make an item that will come in contact with sweat and water is it better to do vegtan or chrome tan?  I want the least amount of bleed possible.

Thank you very much in advance.

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 i don't do chrome tan so cant offer any advise as to the different types and dye retention but you may need to be more specific to get a good answer, getting something superficially wet from a sudden rain storm is much different than say a collar for a Labrador retriever that may swim in it for hours. you may try perusing the adult section for answers. 

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On 7/8/2022 at 5:09 PM, DarthSplay said:

Good afternoon everyone.  I am new to leather working but have a few projects I am getting ready to start and would like to make sure I get the materials I need that will work.  

My first question is when it comes to dyes.  If I make an item that will come in contact with sweat and water is it better to do vegtan or chrome tan?  I want the least amount of bleed possible.

Thank you very much in advance.

Well first of all . . . if you were making a cape for batman . . . it would not make much difference . . . a bracelet for a 5 year old might.

What are you interested in making . . .  holsters . . . belts . . . purses . . . hats?

May God bless,

Dwight

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17 hours ago, Dwight said:

Well first of all . . . if you were making a cape for batman . . . it would not make much difference . . . a bracelet for a 5 year old might.

What are you interested in making . . .  holsters . . . belts . . . purses . . . hats?

May God bless,

Dwight

lol Thank you for that Dwight.  I am looking to make an adult bracelet so to speak lol.  They are into alternative things lol.  So it will be in contact with skin a lot and I am planning on using deer skin or goat or something along those lines for the liner and was hoping that the dye would not bleed. 

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Actually . . . either one will work for what you want to do . . . chrome tanned leather is sometimes used for gloves . . . as it holds up to weather a bit better . . . 

Veg tanned leather is more for things that will be formed to a certain shape (holsters, sheaths, etc) or for stamping (saddles, belts, etc).

If you were going to get a tan / brown / etc . . . putting it out in the sun will turn it about as brown as you want . . . with no problem of dye rub off.

If you want black . . . vinegaroon does a good job there . . . no dye rub off.  Stay away from USMC black from Tandy's . . . it rubs off for the first 100 years or so.

A light coating of Resolene will stop rub off . . . but can be rough on the skin.

Diluting the dye with solvent . . . and several doses of the diluted dye will also reduce run off.

But if the person is sweating profusely . . . you're on your own . . . that's a tough one.

May God bless,

Dwight

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1 hour ago, Dwight said:

Actually . . . either one will work for what you want to do . . . chrome tanned leather is sometimes used for gloves . . . as it holds up to weather a bit better . . . 

Veg tanned leather is more for things that will be formed to a certain shape (holsters, sheaths, etc) or for stamping (saddles, belts, etc).

If you were going to get a tan / brown / etc . . . putting it out in the sun will turn it about as brown as you want . . . with no problem of dye rub off.

If you want black . . . vinegaroon does a good job there . . . no dye rub off.  Stay away from USMC black from Tandy's . . . it rubs off for the first 100 years or so.

A light coating of Resolene will stop rub off . . . but can be rough on the skin.

Diluting the dye with solvent . . . and several doses of the diluted dye will also reduce run off.

But if the person is sweating profusely . . . you're on your own . . . that's a tough one.

May God bless,

Dwight

Awesome thank you so much.  So when I go to do my mando kit then I should use veg tan because I will be wet forming it to fit me?  In that case, can I still dye it afterward or does it have to be dyed first?

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Actually you can do it either way . . . 

I have two different Roman armor pieces (front and back and apron) . . . the black one is molded specifically for me . . . and will be used in a one act play in our church . . . as Cornelius the centurion.

I molded it first . . .  then dyed it.  Molding it first gave it the typical shape I wanted . . . but by later dying it . . . it became wet again . . . and when it dried the second time . . . it was a bit more solid . . . a little harder.  I'm just in the process of decorating it . . . the picture shows my inspiration for it . . . 

Anything you mold that way that you want to be seriously hard . . . dry it with heat.  DO NOT go over 140 deg F . . . I have a drying box I use for holsters and stuff . . . they dry HARD . . . 

Anyway . . . have fun.

May God bless,

Dwight

Roman Armor.jpg

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14 hours ago, Dwight said:

Actually you can do it either way . . . 

I have two different Roman armor pieces (front and back and apron) . . . the black one is molded specifically for me . . . and will be used in a one act play in our church . . . as Cornelius the centurion.

I molded it first . . .  then dyed it.  Molding it first gave it the typical shape I wanted . . . but by later dying it . . . it became wet again . . . and when it dried the second time . . . it was a bit more solid . . . a little harder.  I'm just in the process of decorating it . . . the picture shows my inspiration for it . . . 

Anything you mold that way that you want to be seriously hard . . . dry it with heat.  DO NOT go over 140 deg F . . . I have a drying box I use for holsters and stuff . . . they dry HARD . . . 

Anyway . . . have fun.

May God bless,

Dwight

Roman Armor.jpg

Awesome thank you again.  I would love to see pics when you are done.

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