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Posted

Thanks for the comments, everyone. For the iwb i just used a screw through the base of the snap screwed to a t-nut on the back of the holster. I might sandwich the t-nut between the leather of the holster for the next one, although I'm not sure it would be as strong of a connection that way. The t-nut on the outside isn't that appealing cosmetically.... I haven't use Angelus dye yet but I would like to, especially for browns. The Angelus finish has worked well. I really enjoy working with the Wickett & Craig leather, it has molded much easier than the Tandy leather I first started with. It holds the molding nicely. Boomstick- thanks for the advice. I will definitely pull the rear slot/loop in on the next holsters I do. I admire your work. Again, thanks everyone for the comments and advice.

Here is another holster I've made for a Kahr.

8.jpg

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Posted

Another fantastic holster. Are you getting those shapes cutting by hand, or do you use a clicker die? They are turning out beautifully, and the edges look really nice.

Posted (edited)
Thanks for the comments, everyone. For the iwb i just used a screw through the base of the snap screwed to a t-nut on the back of the holster. I might sandwich the t-nut between the leather of the holster for the next one, although I'm not sure it would be as strong of a connection that way. The t-nut on the outside isn't that appealing cosmetically.... I haven't use Angelus dye yet but I would like to, especially for browns. The Angelus finish has worked well. I really enjoy working with the Wickett & Craig leather, it has molded much easier than the Tandy leather I first started with. It holds the molding nicely. Boomstick- thanks for the advice. I will definitely pull the rear slot/loop in on the next holsters I do. I admire your work. Again, thanks everyone for the comments and advice.

Here is another holster I've made for a Kahr.

8.jpg

OK now I understand, thats what I was confused about in the earlier post I did. I have never thought of doing that before. Very nice holster also.

Edited by MADMAX22
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Posted

I guess the lines you see (like around the moulding of the trigger guard and along the length of the barrel) are creases from making a mark rather than an actual feature of the gun.

ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

Posted

First class work, in every respect. Thanks for sharing it with us.

Lobo Gun Leather

serious equipment for serious business, since 1972

www.lobogunleather.com

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Posted

No clicker dies here...it would be nice to have some in the future, though. I usually use a heavy duty x-acto knife with a chisel point to cut out the leather by hand. It's kind of slow going doing it that way; I might try some leather shears out sometime.

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Posted

That's impressive work for an x-acto knife. Shears have a skill set all there own; some can use them and some can't. The real key is to keep the cutting angle perpendicular to the surface of the leather. If you use shears and the cut edge is sloped, you aren't doing it correctly. The tricky part is keeping it perpendicular on the curves. Some concave curves will be too difficult to cut with shears, or for that matter with a knife. It is a great time saver to invest in various sized hole punches to make quick work of those. For that matter, it would probably be a real time saver to get some clicker dyes made, but I still don't have any experience with those....

You have a real gift for knowing where to put your detailing lines, and when to stop them so they look clean. I also noticed that you figured out it makes a much better looking and tighter fitting holster if you bone the outside edges sharply. Heck, you even left room on the pancake holster to get a full contact grip without obstructing the placement of your thumb (which leads me to believe you're a shooter). Your grasp of holster design really impresses me. How long have you been making holsters?

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Posted
No clicker dies here...it would be nice to have some in the future, though. I usually use a heavy duty x-acto knife with a chisel point to cut out the leather by hand. It's kind of slow going doing it that way; I might try some leather shears out sometime.

Very Impressive. Are you hand stiching these as well?

vince

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Posted

I have been making holsters for about a year and two months now. I was looking for a new pancake holster back then and saw that a lot of the professional holster makers were back ordered for months. I had seen some info on holster making on another forum and decided to give it a shot. I thought "how hard could it be?". So I gathered the basic tools and leather and proceeded to butcher my first few holsters:] I enjoyed making them, though, so I kept at it. I needed a good hobby anyway.... I eventually realized that I hate hand stitching and bought a Toro 3000.

Thanks for the info on leather shears, I've been looking at the Ginghers in the Tandy catalog.

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Posted
I have been making holsters for about a year and two months now. I was looking for a new pancake holster back then and saw that a lot of the professional holster makers were back ordered for months. I had seen some info on holster making on another forum and decided to give it a shot. I thought "how hard could it be?". So I gathered the basic tools and leather and proceeded to butcher my first few holsters:] I enjoyed making them, though, so I kept at it. I needed a good hobby anyway.... I eventually realized that I hate hand stitching and bought a Toro 3000.

Thanks for the info on leather shears, I've been looking at the Ginghers in the Tandy catalog.

Just curious, what do you use to get such crisp lines. I agree with Boomstick, for only having a years worth of experience, you are doing very well.

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