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Frodo

Patcher stitch line

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135 thread top/bottom

110/18B. Needle

 

after reading and paying attention

I managed to get this machine started in on a decent stitch line, then this

It started out pretty decent till I turned s corner then loose upper thread  then skipped

suggestions?

the reverse side looks good up to the skip line

 

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Another practice piece

no skips 

 

 

8301E511-8EDC-4CB3-A886-F0E6FF9FDEB8.jpeg.b7249d04c47c2ba927b47a6218204110.jpeg

 

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2 prices 6 oz

8” turn 3” then skipped stitches?????

 

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I think the 18 needle is to small for the 135

that must be the reason. 
 

 

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19 minutes ago, Frodo said:

8” turn 3” then skipped stitches?????

Skipped stitch(es) after a turn is likely due to making the turn before the needle has risen about 1/4", turning the loop away from the hook or shuttle.

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Thanks for the reminder...  :)  I forget to do that some times and then scratch my bald head.....

God bless

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The usual recommendation for sewing leather with T135 or v138 thread, top and bottom, is a #23 needle. The smallest recommended needle is a #22.

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Wiz is spot on. And I found another issue

i switched to #69 thread and was going to make another test strip but the tension was loose, would not tighten up

I looked at the plates and see that a part must be missing

the spring pushes down on a ? Brass tube? That tube has a shoulder that can not go any farther it lacks a 1/16” of engaging ing the tension plate

 

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2 hours ago, Northmount said:

Skipped stitch(es) after a turn is likely due to making the turn before the needle has risen about 1/4", turning the loop away from the hook or shuttle.

I did not kno that I left the needle down and turned the foot 90 degrees 

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4 hours ago, Frodo said:

I looked at the plates and see that a part must be missing

the spring pushes down on a ? Brass tube? That tube has a shoulder that can not go any farther it lacks a 1/16” of engaging ing the tension plate

The brass tube, or cup, is being held up too far by a bad setting of the lift lever bracket. When you lower the lift lever, the bracket should drop down enough to let the spring loaded brass cup push down on the tension disks.There are nuts under and over a threaded shaft on the back side of the lift bracket. Loosen the bottom nut and adjust the top nut to lower the position when the lift lever is down. Make sure you don't go below what's necessary to let the tube drop or it won't lift the cup off the disks when you raise the lever. There is a happy setting that you need to find, then lock the nuts down tight.

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Right size needle, enough presser foot presser to ensure the item being sewn stays in constant contact with the needle bed, make sure the needle scarf is facing the hook, perfectly left to right. West to east if your in Louisiana and make sure the bobbin is would nicely and feeding the right direction. Should get you fixed up. 

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Looks like I am good, for now

Thanks for the helpful tips and tricks from everyone

special shout out to a YouTube channel by Harry Rogers.  The bobbin drop test saved my bacon
 

I removed the tension spring from the bobbin carrier and found years worth of thread dust and dirt. Little wd40 and a q tip did the trick

made a leather washer for the tension discs to sit on

 

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