Consew 146RB 1 1A tension and timing

[nylonRigging]

13 hours ago, ElFishbone said:

Thanks for the info. I didn’t get a chance to try different thread or stretch the spring as Bob suggested, hopefully today.

What type of material are you usually sewing in your machine? What about threading? On the top pin do you use one hole or both? On the “L pin with 3 holes” do use all 3 holes? I have tried all the combos and it didn’t make a difference. My machine is also a green one serial #  114292, probably a very early one. It is in very excellent shape and shows only slight wear on the leading edge in front. It is setup with a Brother 803 servo and positioning system but the sensors are missing. It also had a pneumatic foot lift that I am still adjusting and waiting for a ac/dc converter card to get the 24v to run it. It runs very smooth and quiet and can be controlled to do 1 stitch at a time. I did not target the 146 it was aquired as an opportunity purchase, just like the other number of machines I have owned in my quest for that perfect machine.

I think I have gleaned every article and tube  on the net regarding the 146 and found the lack of info speaks to its short comings as far as leather goes. The basis for running 135 thread was on the description Consew and it’s retailers list in ads. 

• For stitching such products as boat and truck covers, tents, awnings, sails, parachutes, tarpaulins and similar products
• Used on such materials as canvas, nylon, vinyl, leather, synthetics and similar materials

My expectations were that if it handled heavy material as described it would also handle heavy thread that those materials typically require for strength. iiwii!

I think the needle plate is an ongoing issues that many users end up having to replace and when I was testing I turned the ZZ knob all the way to 10, (That’s as far as it would go) It stitched fine. When I locked the retaining knob top and bottom and hand turned the wheel the needle was deflected by the foot and may have struck the needle plate if I pushed it. At the least it would have bent the needle and struck the needle plate on the next stitch.

Does your machine max out on 10 on the ZZ or will it turn to 12?

Today I will try new material and thread and verify the machines limits.

Thanks 

Fishbone

 

several questions asked ...
That particular machine has primarily only sewn 1-k denier Nylon and webbing it entire life .
. Like I said, I never used # 138 on it before only text 70 and 90 . Right now today me sewing on it, and not really trying hard to tune it for everyday running #138 . The way machine is normally setup with 135x17 22 needle, strung up with #138 on top and bobbin . It has ZERO problems handling 1-k Den. Nylon heavy Urethane backed, ( 8-layer stack ) with good looking stitches top and bottom using straight and Zigzag . I running a 750W servo with no speed reduction setup on that machine . Not trying to compare fabric to leathers, but multiple fold layers of quality Heavy denier Nylon weave with Urethane back, can start putting a machine threw some tough work .

. There really only 2 Hard drawback/limitations with the Consew 146RB . In It's design, it Can't stretch-out Big SPI length on the straight-stitch . . It is Very limited with what you can do for Feet Selection .
146RB is FAR from the your end search for 'perfect do all machine' . BUT.. I really see no reason you can't tune the machine for #138 , and then put it in a station to do certain specific jobs sewing Leather. It a good machine to have in your stable of collected machines.

. Threading - I put a tall thread-post on top and use 2 hole . and on the 3-hole L-bar in front i use all 3 holes for 2-wraps .

. You like pneumatic lifts ??  . I never really cared for them much, because it always 'all or nothing' with them when you engage, always a full lift with thread tension released . majority of the time sewing, I like to slightly knee lift not pushing the Disks Pin, and move material and not lose tension .

. on ZZ-width . It might do 12mm ??? . but I never measure it for MAX width . ( for me ) My needles Scarf determines my ZZ width . When I tune it, after I center the needle . I only pay attention to the Needle on the Right - Left stroke move . I pay extremely close attention to the Hook passing back and forth in relation to the top and bottom of the needles Scarf . So when I see the Hook get to near touching inside top/bottom edges of Scarf.. That Where I Lock it Down on the width . I don't like tapping the Hook on each end of the Scarf cut-out, as it just promotes excessive Hook wear in the long run.
So I Really Doubt, I am pushing the factory 12mm width advertisement propaganda ...LOL
.

[ElFishbone]

Thanks for you insights. And sorry for the barrage of questions.

I think I will share your dislike for the pneumatic lift. The reason I put it on was, the machine was missing most of the parts for the knee lift. The paddle was stationary with a on/off pedal attached to activate the solenoid for the ram. 
Most of the items I make only require a straight line and no turns, so making turns using the hand lift is not unreasonable.  Time will tell.

Today is a slow one so I’ll get to spend more time tuning as you suggest. Have a great day!

Fishbone