Sewmo 400

[rsg3]

Does anyone here have , use or know anything about these machines. I spoke with a gentlemen today that sells them and he said that they are comparable to the toro 3000 but the sewmo is around $150 less. Any info would be appreciated.

[bcurrier]

I've heard they're OK, but make sure you're comparing apples to apples on the price - head, stand (whether included or not, and type), motor type & size, any accessories included. Also, compare warranty & support.

Bill

[rsg3]

The price quoted was for the machine w/ motor(1/2 hp) and stand and accessories (i didn't get a complete list right now) . What i mostly meant by "comparable" was the machine sews about or the same thickness of leather and has the same length arm . I'd like to know if someone has one or uses one , how they sew and hold up over time. I really don't know much about sewing machines , I am wanting to purchase one in the near future and i'm trying to take a crash course here on them. Thanks for the advice.

Edited February 12, 2008 by rsg3

[bcurrier]

Unless you buy a Juki 441 (or perhaps a Seiko) in this class of machine, you're buying a Chinese-made copy of the Japanese Juki (big bucks). Sewmo machines are Chinese, as are Artisan, Ferdco, Leighton, and others. Artisan, however, assembles their machines in the US and runs them in here. Setup is important in any sewing machine, but perhaps even more so in the big stitchers, as local support may be next to nil.

I didn't know there was a Sewmo copy of the Artisan 3000, which is more or less a short-arm 441 type, but knew there was a Sewmo copy of the normal, 16.5" arm 441 type, comparable to an Artisan 4000.

What's the price you're being quoted? Also, is the motor a clutch motor or servo, and are any accessories included (feet, needle plates, light, etc.)?

Bill

[rsg3]

The price is $1850 plus shipping the warranty is only 12 months(parts and labor) compared to 24 for the artisan. As far as motor type i don't know. Is on type better than the other? Some of the other included items are xtra needles and bobbins, thread stand, bobbin winder. You are bringing up things that i need to know and learn about, thanks

[Art]

Artisan support is well worth the $150, especially if it is your first machine. The servo motor is a DC variable speed motor which will make your learning curve very short. You'll feel fairly confident after 1/2 an hour practicing. It is very hard to get used to the clutch motor when it is new, it is hard disengaging the brake to hand wheel the machine without engaging the clutch (watch them fingers), and feathering takes a little getting use to.

Art

Does anyone here have , use or know anything about these machines. I spoke with a gentlemen today that sells them and he said that they are comparable to the toro 3000 but the sewmo is around $150 less. Any info would be appreciated.

[bcurrier]

With a clutch motor, you're engaging a clutch via a lever on the end of the motor unit when you press the foot pedal. You're literally slipping the clutch at anything but full speed. You can learn to finesse it, but it's not easy at first, and short starts and stops, like when reversing to lock the last few stitches, can be fussy. When you press a footpedal attached to a servo motor, you're directly controlling the speed of the motor and you have finer, and predicable control. Most servo motors also have speed range controls. Practically speaking, that increases your control yet further by limiting the rate of motor speed change when you press the pedal, if that made sense.

Big leather stitchers need a speed reducer, which is a large pulley mounted to the underside of the stand to reduce motor speed even further (bonus is that it provides even more control). Make sure the machine has one, and that it's a ball bearing model. Cylinder arm machines sold for non-leather use are sometimes set up without reducers.

Stands come in a variety of types: sitting, standing, adjustable, several leg types (pedestals, H-leg, K-leg, T-leg, etc), even gas-assisted. Honestly, almost anything sufficiently heavy is suitable except - in my opinion - that a cylinder arm machine needs to project out from the stand to get the maximum use of the arm. You will see cylinder arm machines set up occasionally on a "regular" K-leg stand with a big cutout under the arm, but I personally find that setup odd.

The stand should come with a foot lift anyway, but make sure, as the lifter on the head itself doesn't give you as much lift as the foot lifter mechanism.

The one thing you do want in a stand is a plywood top. Don't settle for particle board and don't let anyone tell you the plywood top is too expensive. Stands (at least K-leg and H-leg) and tops are unbelievably cheap. The stand should have a drawer, and these are also cheap - as little as $5 retail. Finally, casters - and they need to lock - aren't strictly necessary - but sure are handy!

Bobbin winders (if the head doesn't have its own) and thread stands are normally included with any machine stand, as is a light, for that matter. Needles for big stitchers are expensive, so understanding what you're getting and how many is important. Bobbins for common industrial machines run as little as 10-25 cents a pop, but the bobbins for the big stitchers are more like 3 dollars each, and I'd want as many as I could get. A couple dozen would be minimum, unless you are going to severely limit your thread selection.

Same thing with feet and needle plates - trivial cost for many common industrial machines and VERY expensive for the big stitchers. I can buy feet from an industrial supplier for as little as 50 cents for my wife's Juki lockstitch, and the most expensive binder I think we paid about $15. By contrast, feet sets for the big stitchers (these are walking foot machines with inner and outer feet) run from about $100 up. Needle plates can run from about $75 upwards of $200. You HAVE to make sure that the types of feet you want are available for the machine you're buying. Feet from Artisan or Ferdco would probably fit the Sewmo, assuming it's the same machine class, but you'd have to confirm that, as there's a lot of variation within classes. It's not unusual to have to do some fitting and adjusting with these feet, either.

Any machine should also come with a few basic tools - they're usually crap, but are better than nothing. The machine should be set up and sewn off by the seller, not shipped as received from the factory. The norm in the industrial sewing industry is, on request, to sew off with the customer's specified thread and material weight (or close equivalents). I.e., the machine arrives ready to sew with that setup. You also need to verify that the machine will, in fact, sew up to its rated capacity.

I agree with Art, the $150 is well worth your while.

Bill

[rsg3]

I really appreciate the advice and information.

[Luke Hatley]

I really appreciate the advice and information.

RSG3... I really dont know about all the sewing machine numbers.

But the Sewmo Brand is a good machine, i know 4 people that has them.

mine is the 205-370, it has served me well for holsters,double belts,knife

sheath.and saddle repair. it is a copy of the ADLER ...I M H O.

the folks at Industrial Sewing Sales in Ohio are very helpful.

[Artisan Dave]

RSG3,

Why don't you give us a call here at Artisan before you make your final decision.

I would be happy to answer all your questions or concerns.

Between myself, Jerry and Steve - we have over 90 years experience - so take advantage of it and talk to us.

1-888-838-1408

Edited February 12, 2008 by Artisan Dave