CLSP - Chinese Leather Shoe Patcher

[kgg]

6 hours ago, Burkhardt said:

First things first, turn off what ever you have set on your lettering and please use some punctuation, I can't tell what's a question and where one starts or ends.

I agree very difficult to follow.

We need some basic info like:

i) what size thread you are using?

ii) what size needle you are using?

iii) what way are you trying to thread the needle from. From your left to right or right to left.

iv) Which way do you have the needle inserted. With the long groove on the left or on the right?

v) what way is the thread coming of the bobbin, clockwise or counter clockwise?

A couple of photo's of your thread path from the spool of thread to the needle would be helpful.

kgg

 

[Wizcrafts]

12 hours ago, Burkhardt said:

First things first, turn off what ever you have set on your lettering and please use some punctuation, I can't tell what's a question and where one starts or ends.

I edited his post and removed the odd formatting. I also added missing periods and commas.

[Stuartbaffuto]

Hello Everyone,

This forum has been a really reassuring source of hints, tips and advice, if anyone is still watching this thread I have a request for suggestions on how to get a Chinese "tinker" machine sewing smoothly. I recently bought from Robin Industry their modified version, RC-32-4A http://robinindustry.com/product/275.html, of the classic Chinese Patcher for sewing insole to midsole.

Materials wise I'm not using leather but a 1-2mm cellulose fibreboard sewn to 3mm natural rubber / para / caoutchouc midsole.

The main issue is the top thread is not always picked up when the bobbin cover is on (irritatingly with no bobbin cover the shuttle picks up the thread fine, even when I pull it tight against the needle), and sometimes breaks/is worn through when the bobbin/shuttle plate is on, despite a constant tendency for the top thread to form small (2-3mm) loops on the underside of the workpiece. The machine struggles to pull the workpiece through (due to thread tension/knots I think) despite the presser foot being sufficient to pull through a workpiece without thread.

To aid assistance here are my answers to KGG's questions:

i) what size thread you are using? I'm using Barbour & Sons (now owned by Coats but I guess they have some stock left over or are continuing it as a heritage brand) linen 18/5 (unwaxed) thread top and bottom. I've also tried thinner thread, down to a Tex 20, both top and bottom and in combination with thicker top thread, but still no luck with that getting picked up consistently by the shuttle hook

ii) what size needle you are using? Factory supplied 45x1 / DDx1 / 26/230 needle (c. 62 mm long and c. 2mm shank, round profile shank)

iii) what way are you trying to thread the needle from. From your left to right or right to left. Left to right

iv) Which way do you have the needle inserted. With the long groove on the left or on the right? Long groove on left

v) what way is the thread coming of the bobbin, clockwise or counter clockwise? Counter clockwise, but it's coming out of the hole where the spring tensioner screw was because it's larger, and even like that still has some resistance to exit

A couple of photo's of your thread path from the spool of thread to the needle would be helpful. I'm using the disc tensioner on top left and not quite figured out the best route through the spring tensioned thread tensioner arm (which is also currently above/outside the loop on the needle crank arm).

(I should probably mention for units, suppliers etc I'm based in Italy)

 

I suspect the problem lies in one of several areas, but I'm not quite sure which so I would appreciate help to rule out the more obvious ones:

Thread - needle relation is out of step, one too thick, the other too thin.

Top thread not waxed so binding in workpiece

Thread tensioner arm is not in correct place / spring tension is not correct

Thread tension in general is wrong

Internal space between top of bobbin/shuttle and cover is too small for so much thick thread (but when trying with no work piece and only pulling thread through there doesn't seem to be any severe resistance)

That's about it. I look forward to hearing your suggestions.

Thanks,

Stuart