Members barclay Posted May 7, 2023 Members Report Posted May 7, 2023 345 h3 cast iron sub base, the part that holds the head to the table. The one I have is from a singer I think and is too tall and not the right width for the pfaff. The singer is about 6" tall and I would like the lowest base possible, maybe 2". Where can I get such a cast part. If all else fails I will cut this one down. But I will search first. thanks Quote
Members barclay Posted May 7, 2023 Author Members Report Posted May 7, 2023 the black base is the wrong size and not a Pfaff. Machine is too tall and need a lower base. Any ideas? Quote
Members Handstitched Posted May 7, 2023 Members Report Posted May 7, 2023 (edited) All the pics I've seen of the 345's don't have that extra black bit with the clip on . Can that be removed? Or get another bench with adjustable height ? It would be quite a tall order to modify the Singer base. HS Edited May 7, 2023 by Handstitched Quote ' I have a very gweat friend in Wome called Biggus Dickus, He has a wife you know, do you know whats she's called? Incontinentia.......Incontinentia Buttocks '
kgg Posted May 7, 2023 Report Posted May 7, 2023 (edited) @barclay I would: i) call around to the repair shops and try sourcing one as they may have a donor machine. ii) get a new one from a PFAFF dealer if they are still available. The parts you need can be found on page 4 of "Housing Sections" of the listed in the following topic as a downloadable manual "parts5ao8mf6d.pdf". The base part number is: 91-014 200-75/995 iii) have a welding shop fabricate a support frame probably using 3" angle iron iv) as you suggested cut down the one you have. kgg Edited May 7, 2023 by kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Members barclay Posted May 7, 2023 Author Members Report Posted May 7, 2023 thanks for the wisdom. Quote
Members barclay Posted May 8, 2023 Author Members Report Posted May 8, 2023 I decided just to cut and weld. Its ready to weld tomorrow. I can weld it from the inside to hide the weld , paint it and its done. I took out almost 4". Hinge and latch holes are still intact. No drilling no tapping. Now waiting for a servo to show up. At that point I will need to reduce the speed etc. onward. Quote
kgg Posted May 8, 2023 Report Posted May 8, 2023 5 hours ago, barclay said: I decided just to cut and weld. That is what I would have done. A few cutting disc later and the basic job is done. Are you planning on modifying the existing Singer treadle table to accept a servo motor or building a new table? With the servo motor I would install it first before putting a speed reducer on as you may find it not necessary, depending on what you want to sew. kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Members barclay Posted May 8, 2023 Author Members Report Posted May 8, 2023 one disk and a jig and the 2 cuts went better than expected. I will keep the singer table as it is cool. The servo goes down to 300rpm and with a small pully and a 5.5" handwheel pulley I will get about 100 spm i think. could be slower for the thick leather so reduction may be in order.. Quote
Members barclay Posted May 10, 2023 Author Members Report Posted May 10, 2023 base done, much more acceptable height. On to the next issue.. a bigger handwheel pulley, to slow things down a bit. Back to the lathe for that. Quote
kgg Posted May 10, 2023 Report Posted May 10, 2023 5 hours ago, barclay said: base done, much more acceptable height. On to the next issue.. a bigger handwheel pulley, to slow things down a bit. Nicely done. As a note if you want the base color to be a better match, try your auto supply store for a tin of spray paint. I used one for a Toyota to match the base color of a PFAFF flatbed. A good pulley size calculator to checkout before you hit the lathe is: https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belt Example A: Small pulley at servo motor with a 5.5" hand-wheel pulley with a motor speed of 300 rpm will give you a hand-wheel rpm of: i) 2" pulley at servo motor: 109 rpm ii) 3" pulley at servo motor: 163 rpm to get those speeds down to say 40 rpm at the hand-wheel the new hand-wheel pulley would have to be: i) 2" pulley at servo motor: 15 inches in diameter ii) 3" pulley at servo motor: 22.5 inches in diameter Personally I would suggest putting a speed reducer in, double bearing shaft or canter lever style, and leaving the existing 5.5 inch hand-wheel pulley for a couple of reasons. Leaves the machine in original condition, helps reduce startup jerk and provides a more uniformed torque range. Example B: Small pulley at servo motor with a 5.5" hand-wheel pulley with a motor speed of 300 rpm and installing a reducer pulley (6 inch /2 inch) will give you a hand-wheel rpm of: i) 2" pulley at servo motor 36 rpm ii) 3" pulley at servo motor: 55 rpm kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.