Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Members
Posted

345 h3 cast iron sub base, the part that holds the head to the table.  The one I have is from a singer I think and is too tall and not the right width for the pfaff.  The singer is about 6" tall and I would like the lowest base possible, maybe 2".  Where can I get such a cast part.  If all else fails I will cut this one down. But I will search first.  thanks

  • Replies 26
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • Members
Posted

the black base is the wrong size and not a Pfaff.  Machine is too tall and need a lower base.  Any ideas?

IMG_1293.jpeg

  • Members
Posted (edited)

All the pics I've seen of the 345's don't have that extra black  bit with the clip on . Can that be removed? Or get another bench with adjustable height ? It would be  quite a tall order to modify the Singer base. 

HS

Edited by Handstitched

' I have a very gweat friend in Wome called Biggus Dickus,

He has a wife you know, do you know whats she's called? Incontinentia.......Incontinentia Buttocks '  :rofl:

Posted (edited)

 

@barclay

I would:

i) call around to the repair shops and try sourcing one as they may have a donor machine.

ii) get a new one from a PFAFF dealer if they are still available. The parts you need can be found on page 4 of "Housing Sections" of the listed in the following topic as a downloadable manual "parts5ao8mf6d.pdf". The base part number is: 91-014 200-75/995

iii) have a welding shop fabricate a support frame probably using 3" angle iron

iv) as you suggested cut down the one you have.

 

kgg

Edited by kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

  • Members
Posted

thanks for the wisdom.

  • Members
Posted

I decided just to cut and weld.  Its ready to weld tomorrow.  I can weld it from the inside to hide the weld , paint it and its done. I took out almost 4".  Hinge and latch holes are still intact.  No drilling no tapping.  Now waiting for a servo to show up.  At that point I will need to reduce the speed etc.  onward.

IMG_2428.JPG

IMG_2431.JPG

IMG_2430.JPG

Posted
5 hours ago, barclay said:

I decided just to cut and weld.  

That is what I would have done. A few cutting disc later and the basic job is done. Are you planning on modifying the existing Singer treadle table to accept a servo motor or building a new table? With the servo motor I would install it first before putting a speed reducer on as you may find it not necessary, depending on what you want to sew.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

  • Members
Posted

one disk and a jig and the 2 cuts went better than expected.  I will keep the singer table as it is cool.   The servo goes down to 300rpm and with a small pully and a 5.5" handwheel pulley I will get about 100 spm i think. could be slower for the thick leather so reduction may be in order..

  • Members
Posted

base done, much more acceptable height.  On to the next issue.. a bigger handwheel pulley, to slow things down a bit.  Back to the lathe for that.

IMG_2433.JPG

IMG_2434.JPG

IMG_2436.JPG

Posted
5 hours ago, barclay said:

base done, much more acceptable height.  On to the next issue.. a bigger handwheel pulley, to slow things down a bit.

Nicely done. As a note if you want the base color to be a better match, try your auto supply store for a tin of spray paint. I used one for a Toyota to match the base color of a PFAFF flatbed.

A good pulley size calculator to checkout before you hit the lathe is: https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belt

Example A:

Small pulley at servo motor with a 5.5" hand-wheel pulley with a motor speed of 300 rpm will give you a hand-wheel rpm of:

i) 2" pulley at servo motor: 109 rpm

ii) 3" pulley at servo motor: 163 rpm

to get those speeds down to say 40 rpm at the hand-wheel the new hand-wheel pulley would have to be:

i) 2" pulley at servo motor: 15 inches in diameter

ii) 3" pulley at servo motor: 22.5 inches in diameter

Personally I would suggest putting a speed reducer in, double bearing shaft or canter lever style, and leaving the existing 5.5 inch hand-wheel pulley for a couple of reasons. Leaves the machine in original condition, helps reduce startup jerk and provides a more uniformed torque range.

Example B:

Small pulley at servo motor with a 5.5" hand-wheel pulley with a motor speed of 300 rpm and installing a reducer pulley (6 inch /2 inch) will give you a hand-wheel rpm of:

i) 2" pulley at servo motor  36 rpm

ii) 3" pulley at servo motor: 55 rpm

kgg

 

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...