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Posted

Thanks for the info.  My hand wheel pulley is only 3.5. I will turn a pulley that goes around the 3.5 and screws to the handwheel, leaving the original handwheel.  Or I  may reduce it further as you suggest.  already repainted it, the gray was ugly.  

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decided to use the Pfaff brown color, like the decal.  Matching the machine would never be right so I went with the contrast, looks fine.  Its a singer base ro start with so originality means nada at this point.  Top plate and needle bar cover plate are now brown too.  Almost ready for the servo and table etc.

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Posted
17 minutes ago, barclay said:

Almost ready for the servo and table etc.

Looking good.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

Posted
On 5/12/2023 at 2:23 AM, barclay said:

decided to use the Pfaff brown color, like the decal.  Matching the machine would never be right so I went with the contrast, looks fine.  Its a singer base ro start with so originality means nada at this point.  Top plate and needle bar cover plate are now brown too.  Almost ready for the servo and table etc.

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Nice work! I have a 345 H3 myself, with a binding feed. Feed dog goes back and forth only, it's for propelling a synchronized binder. If your machine has the same type of lower feed, just adjust the feed dog so it doesn't prolong above the needle plate. (About 1 mm. under the level of the needle plate). If it's above the needle plate, it will just interfer with the material feed anyway ( If your machine has a binding feed, that if). These machines have no hook safety clutch, that means big trouble if you get a birds nest in the hook. They don't like coarse threads that much,  with a speed reducer/bigger handwheel it's easy to knock it out of timing. If it jams, the hook will turn out of position on the hook shaft. The needle bar might also move out of position, so take care! My hook has moved on its shaft so many times,  the hook's set screw's has made grooves in the hook shaft. I had to remove the shaft to repair that. That made me more aware. I can't emphasize this enough; no clutch= big trouble if it jams. My machine have a strong servo motor and a speed reduser. It's there to control the speed, but that's more power than these are design to be used with. I make sure not using too heavy threads in it. As I'm blessed with two heavier class machines, I don't need to be doing that. I look forwards to see you finishing this project, and to see the new handwheel. A bigger handwheel is always a better solution than a speed reduser. Because the extra belt and pulleys makes much more friction. And you can't use a needle position motor with a reduser, it will not work well. Good luck with your project!

Tor 

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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Posted (edited)

new handwheel, from 3" to a new 5 -7/8".  Now the motor mounting and reducer .  This set up gets me down to 100spm, would like to go slower, so some more pulleys underneath.  The original handwheel is still intact.

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Edited by barclay
Posted
8 hours ago, barclay said:

new handwheel, from 3" to a new 5 -7/8".  

Nice top pulley. As @Trox has mentioned be very aware of the additional torque this the hand-wheel has created and by installing an speed reducer the even higher torque that will be available which could over stress internal parts. Your 335 does not have a safety clutch to prevent damaging those internal parts. Before you install a speed reducer I would try the machine on a project first.

What are you planning on sewing? How thick? What size thread?

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

Posted
15 hours ago, barclay said:

new handwheel, from 3" to a new 5 -7/8".  Now the motor mounting and reducer .  This set up gets me down to 100spm, would like to go slower, so some more pulleys underneath.  The original handwheel is still intact.

b

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Nice work! You would not need s reducer on this setup, just a small pulley on the motor.

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

Posted

100 rpm is the slowest maximum speed. You can go slower on the pedal, I would not recommend using a speed reducer. Use a needle position instead, needle position will not work with a reduser. And the motor setup will be way to strong with an reducer, you can break the hook (there are no safety clutch) The extra belt and tension with a reducer makes it sometimes harder to control. Because you need more power to start turning the machine.  I think it will be perfect as it is now. I have a reducer on mine, that's just to much for such machine. That's the setup for s 441 type of machine.

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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Posted

the motor slowest speed is 300 rpm  750 w.

Posted
2 hours ago, barclay said:

the motor slowest speed is 300 rpm  750 w.

What about needle position? Then you can go stitch by stitch 

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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