custom boots that don't fit

[JAM]

It's now a year later and I thought I'd tell the end of this tale. The bootmakers in England gave up and fully refunded my money (I even profited a little by the change in the currency exchange rate between when I sent the money and when it was refunded - yay!). Tried a different bootmaker here in the USA; they were okay but had to be sent back and remade because the first set was clearly done wrong. (I have custom western boots which are great, but there are very few custom English riding boot makers). So then it hit me:  if I can build custom saddles, which I have for many years, why can't I learn to build my own shoes and boots? 

It's very different from building saddles, and takes different tools. I've learned about buying lasts and then modifying them for my feet, and making patterns, and tried several kinds of sole construction, and it's fascinating and absorbing and not easy. I understand now what the bootmakers were doing (and not doing, and doing wrong) because I understand the process now, and the difference between off-the-shelf, sort-of-custom, and truly bespoke. 

I've made four pairs of shoes now, am starting my second pair of paddock boots, and am working my way up to tall English riding boots. Everything I've made is vastly more comfortable than any pair of retail shoes or even custom boots I own because my lasts fit MY feet. 

I still have lots to learn and this is a fantastic new leather hobby! I never would have thought that a bad experience with a not-so-great bootmaker could open up a whole new world and passion.

I do have a question, if someone has an answer to share: What do you do or use to finish the surface of the leather on a new pair of boots or shoes, and prepare it for polish? Do you just polish and wax like normal? 

[Mulesaw]

@JAM

Glad to hear that it was all sorted out. 
I am trying to position myself to go down the road of future boot making. My initial idea was to sort of reverse engineer a couple of old riding boots to get an idea of how the patters for the various parts should look, and then make it to the size that will fit a custom made last. 

Did you do it in that way or did you just start out without looking at older boots individual parts first? 
I know there is a huge difference between dressage and jumping boots, in their stiffness, and I intend to make jumping boots at least for a start. 

I have to admit that I haven't got any experience about your answer regarding the treatment of the surface of the leather on new boots. I would guess that shoepolish and perhaps a leather conditioner would be how I'd do it.

Brgds Jonas 

[Tastech]

@JAM It depends on the leather you use . veg tan and chrome tan have different requirements . You can soften up the leather using a mink oil base conditioner and polish over the top . Or before you do that and you need to get them to a right fit you can spray them with water in the tight spots and then wear them just a little damp and they will  mold to your feet . Most people have slightly different shaped feet and lasts come in identical pairs so a little tweeking is necessary .Take note of where there are any problems with your existing shoes you have made and adjust the last in that area .  For tight spots on shoes i do what i call "breaking" depending on where the tight spot is i will use anything from a broom handle to a steel cobblers last and use a pushing and rolling method to work the leather . Alot of people have problems with the heel area which causes blisters i use the breaking method and it softens things up . When it comes to polish i think a cream polish is best because it contains conditioner . Wax polishes contain a solvent that over time can dry out the leather and it begins to crack . Think of it like this . Conditioner is like a skin moisturizer. Polish is like make up. They do 2 different things . If the leather is well conditioned then it does not need polish . A cream polish is midway between the 2 . It contains conditioning oils , color pigment and some wax that polishes up quite well .  I prefer mink oil base conditioners because they penetrate well and offer water resistance and allows the leather to breathe .   The saphir brand  does this . Collonil is good too. Avoid things like dubbin . that is more suited to oiled leathers and work boots . Neatsfoot oil is ok but can leave a greasy residue it is more suited for saddles and harness.

When it comes to custom boots the are misnamed they are made to order not bespoke . The problem is the place selling them takes 2 measurements . Length and width them passes them on to a factory . 2 measurements are no way near enough  I take at least 6 and make a note of any foot anomalies and 3 calf measurements at the very least . I make shoes but not riding boots . If a shoe doesn't fit right a little piece of me dies , because i have to re make it and that could be 20 - 30 hours of my life i will never get back . So its the person taking the measurements that screws up not necessarily the shoe maker. I don't care what any one says but you can't self measure , you just can't . 

[JAM]

Mulesaw - I started with just shoes, some books, some digital patterns I bought on line, and lots of trials with a pair of lasts that were custom made by podohub. Lots of masking tape patterns, trial shoes first made of felt, altering the lasts a bit, then making several trial shoes out of whatever leather I had on hand (ugly soft chaps leather, mostly). I've printed lots of pictures of different shoes and boots to look at how their patterns are put together, studied my own custom boots from long ago, and watched a lot of YouTube videos about making shoes and boots. Every shoe (and now paddock boot) I make is a trial and I alter the pattern as needed for the second shoe or boot in the pair,  then keep the altered pattern. I'm not using good leather until I have the pattern and process down. I wear the pairs that work and learn from every shoe or paddock boot I make. The tall riding boots will be easier to figure out after I have a handle on the paddock boots. We are blessed with a ton of information available these days. 

[JAM]

Tastech - thank you - your entire post was very educational. "Breaking" the leather in difficult spots, the differences in conditioners, polished, and waxes, all very helpful, thank you. Mink oil base conditioners, Saphir and Collonil - I'll look for those.