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The difference the type of 3D plate can make.

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I  know there are a few who use 3D printers with the majority probably being flatbed slingers or core XY machines and this may help provide some information on what to expect when printing parts using different bed plates. The example I am showing are of four final outputs using the same design .step files. All are acceptable from a strength point of view and were printed with 3d850 filament.  The first photo showing the the four table top plates for the 441 are the same size but they appear to be different sizes in the photo due to the angle it was taken.

The first photo is of the engineering plate which is similar to the Prusa 'Satin' Plate as it is a PEI coated plate that has more stippling grip that an old school PEI sheet but not as much as a PEI "textured" plate. Basically a compromise design between smoothness and 'stickiness'. We did not use it long enough to judge its sticky abilities before moving on to new tech plates. Aesthetically acceptable does have mild some grip to the surface.

The second photo is carbon fiber pattern PET, a lower grade of PEO and basically the same as PETG without the glycol added. Its Glass Transition temperature (Tg) is 70C so once again great for PLA and 3860/3870 but PETG (let alone ABS) is a non-starter. Where it is not as robust as PEO the pattern in the sheet is more noticeable to the touch and the finishing surface is not as smooth. Still better than even 'satin' PEI sheets but not as good as 'smooth' PEI sheets. Parts do not stick as well to it as PEO, so when cool parts do pop right off, but while hot you have to rip them off. Aesthetically acceptable does have less surface grip to the surface.

The third photo is a 3D pattern and my favorite a PEO sometimes called 'PEG' plastic. Similar to PETG but higher temperature resistance. The latest PEO plates can handle over 100C, the older ones can handle ~80C. NONE should be used with PETG filament as they probably will bind to each other. Causing you to rip the 'sticker' PEO sheet. These plates result in as smooth a surface as old-school 'smooth' PEI plates and arguably as smooth as glass with just as much 'shine'. BUT PLA sticks to it better than PEI textured plates. Even when cool it takes a tiny bit of effort to release the part from it. Aesthetically very acceptable has less surface grip then the other surfaces more like polished glass.

The fourth photo is the least aesthetically acceptable with the greatest amount of surface grip and was done on Prusa MK3S with a full bear upgrade (bed slinger) and retained the glue tracking lines on the bed. It is also I think worthy to note that the printing time for the first three took approximately 5 hours each at standard speed and were done on Bambu X1 Carbon (core XY) while the last one was done using the Prusa MK3S with a full bear upgrade taking approximately 16 hours to print.

All comments, discussion are always welcomed.









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