Trouble adding EPS to cobra class 26

[Alexfisher]

Hello all,

I recently bought the EPS from leather machine co to add on to my existing class 26. The motor install went well but I’m having trouble with two things:

There is a screw in the center of the hand wheel that needs to be removed so the inner part of the EPS can take its place. For the life of me I cannot get it out. Has anyone come across this?

In the videos showing how to set up eps, there is a line drawn from the factory about where to match up the eps unit to the hand wheel. I don’t have this line so I’m not sure how to line it it up appropriately so the stitch finishes in the right place. Right now it doesn’t work correctly, the knot hasn’t come up all the way in the bottom so it gets stuck 

I’ve scoured the internet and can’t seem to find anyone else with these problems or solutions. Thank you in advance!

 

[shoepatcher]

call Cobra and talk to Steve.

glenn

[bruce johnson]

Vince would be the one to talk to now at Cobra. 

[Uwe]

The folks  Leather Machine Co. should be able to tell you if the screw in the handwheel has Loctite or other glue on it. 

With or without Loctite, make sure you use the largest screw driver you can securely fit into the slot of the screw to get maximum torque without slipping.

The concepts of setting the positions for needle positing are not really brand or model specific. There’s no really hard rule and your preference may play a role. Exactly how you set the position depends on the specific position sensor and motor controller you use.

On my Juki LS- 341 (which the Cobra Class 26 is a clone of,) I set the needle-down position to be after the hook catches the thread loop and the tip of the hook is at 12 o’clock (a quarter of a hook turn past the needle). In this position the loop is securely caught and the needle is still in the material to pivot the material around when making turns. 

For needle-up position, you can either set it to when the needle is a top dead center (for maximum foot lift and needle clearance) or when the thread take-up lever is a the very top (knot is pulled tight, good position to remove material, but needle is already on its way down again.) I use the take-up lever at very top position.

Whether or not you can set each needle stop position independently depends on the needle positioner hardware and motor controller software. On my needle positioner (which has just one physical sensor) you set one needle position manually via the indicator light for the sensor. The other needle position is offset my 180˚ by default and can be fine-tuned via settings on the controller to advance or retard the second needle position.

Some needle positioners have two physical sensors and you set each position by adjusting the position of the sensor discs inside.

Please post a link to video you referenced, and then post some photos of your particular setup for the needle positioner installation.

I’m not sure how you were able to install the position sensor without removing the center handwheel screw. If the positioner is not securely attached to the hand-wheel and slips, all bets are off.

Here’s what the hand wheel of my Juki LS-341 looks like:

 

My installation required the use of the adapter that is held in place by a center screw that replaced the original one in the hand wheel. The green light comers on when the sensor is triggered, for manual adjustment of the first needle position. I rotated the handwheel into the precise position I wanted, then I loosened the sensor collar and rotated it until the light came on, then tightened the collar again. 

 

 

 

Edited October 27, 2023 by Uwe