Parity Report post Posted February 13, 2024 I started leather working in November and I've only made some simple wallets and cardholders. I'd like to make a black belt for my brother in law. The style he likes is similar to the Allen Edmonds cordovan Ave. I've done a little research and I'm thinking of going with 8-10oz 1-1/4in hermann oak bridle strap with a black roller heel buckle from buckleguy. I couldn't find any templates or instructions for this particular style and I'm not sure what to look up so I apologize for any dumb questions. Should I order 2 straps to glue together then stitch? Is there normally a material in the middle to help keep it's shape? Any help/tips or links is greatly appreciated! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DieselTech Report post Posted February 13, 2024 (edited) I think they refer to that style of belt, A "raised belt". J.H Leather shows a tutorial on a belt & a dog collar of that style. But yes there is a 3rd piece in the center to raise the belt center. I think 2 6-7oz straps would make a super strong belt, especially after a 3 piece is added in the center. I think the other way they do it is to skive each edge of the belts down. Then that will leave a raised center section, when the 2 belt halves are glued & sewn together it creates the raised center. Edited February 13, 2024 by DieselTech Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomE Report post Posted February 13, 2024 (edited) A raised leather strap is typically made by splitting the strap and inserting a leather filler strip. The top/grain side is thin (~2-3 oz) so it conforms to the filler strip and the bottom of the split is thicker and serves as a flat platform. I make raised leather straps from bridle leather with a pasted back, but you could split 2 straps or add a thin liner if you want grain showing on both sides. The layers are glued together before sewing the edges. The width of the top cover is decreased by wrapping over the filler strip so the edges of the strap will need to be trued up after it is assembled. Depending on the height/shape of the filler you might need to start with a wider strap if you're machine sewing so the pressor feet have a place to land then trim the margins after sewing. An inline or narrow pressor foot helps with sewing next to the raised element. It takes some practice with splitting, shaping, sewing, and trimming to make raised elements. Also, the pictured belt violates a cardinal rule of strap making - don't stitch across the width of the strap - although this is often seen in manufactured dress belts. Edited February 13, 2024 by TomE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
