thinking of purchasing a machine

[Art]

Hi Roger,

I would use a 135x16TRI needle for leather, however there are reverse twist needles if you want that look. For 138 thread I use Linhanyl Nylon but Coats Poly would also work. I have used as small as a size 19 (120) and this gives a very tight stitch, an occasional needle break is also normal especially if you are not careful in areas where the thickness transitions. A 22 (140) is always safe and looks good but shows a lot of hole for me. A 22 (140) or 23 (160) would be my bet for 207, I'd use a 22 and if I had problems move it up.

Most of the tables you see for needles show what I consider very large sizes for a particular thread size, but keep in mind most users are running machines close to the speed of light compared to what we do. Stitch length and needle thread size are aesthetic parameters in the kind of work we do in addition to holding the work together.

Art

ok.. now on to needles and thread!

what size and type needles should i try for 138 and 207 thread?

what thread should i try and where to get it?

the machine uses the 135X17 needles

i guess i should also add feet and accessories to the mix.

should i use certain feet or a guid of some sort to get nice straight stitches on strap edges ect?

[Roger]

still looking around and found this machine.

yamata 335a looks to be another juki 441 clone. walking foot, 135x17 needle and will handle 207 thread

am i better off going with a cylinder bed machine? it only a few dollars more than the flat bed machines i was looking at.

[Artisan Dave]

Hi,

To begin - you should know that I work with the folks at Artisan.

Having said that, if you are looking at a Consew 206 - take a look at our 618-1 SC LTHR. Better yet - call me and I will give you some ideas of what to look for and what to look out for when doing your research.

That Yamata - You need to pay attention to comparing Apples with Apples. That model is not a Heavy Duty Stitcher that can sew 3/4".

Call! I have no interest in trying to SELL you - I would, however, be happy to try and educate you in your search.

[Roger]

Hi,

To begin - you should know that I work with the folks at Artisan.

Having said that, if you are looking at a Consew 206 - take a look at our 618-1 SC LTHR. Better yet - call me and I will give you some ideas of what to look for and what to look out for when doing your research.

That Yamata - You need to pay attention to comparing Apples with Apples. That model is not a Heavy Duty Stitcher that can sew 3/4".

Call! I have no interest in trying to SELL you - I would, however, be happy to try and educate you in your search.

thanks for the reply dave!

i have heard nothing but good things about the guys at artisan.

i will try and give you a call some time soon.

[bcurrier]

still looking around and found this machine.

yamata 335a looks to be another juki 441 clone. walking foot, 135x17 needle and will handle 207 thread

am i better off going with a cylinder bed machine? it only a few dollars more than the flat bed machines i was looking at.

The Yamata machine you show is a lighter-duty machine. You might see it compared to heavier class heads because of its cylinder bed, but it's not a 441-type and doesn't have the same capabilities. The lift, for example, is only about 1/2", the needle bar stroke is shorter, the components are lighter, and can't sew heavier threads than 207. If its capacities meet your needs, by all means go for it - they're a lot less money than a 441 type - but if I were looking for a lighter machine, I'd also look at the Juki DSC 240.

Bill

[Roger]

thanks bill,

i know it's a lighter machine but, comparable to the flat bed machines i am looking at.

i would think the cylinder machine would be a bit more versitle but, being new to sewing machines in general i am relying what ever input i can get.

price is the biggest issue at the moment. i need to get something and get to using it then i will look to move up.

[Art]

Hi Roger,

If you are even thinking of doing bags boxes or purses, get a cylinder arm. There are so many times you have to tilt something to sew it and with a flat bed you just can't do that.

Art

thanks bill,

i know it's a lighter machine but, comparable to the flat bed machines i am looking at.

i would think the cylinder machine would be a bit more versitle but, being new to sewing machines in general i am relying what ever input i can get.

price is the biggest issue at the moment. i need to get something and get to using it then i will look to move up.

[Roger]

Hi Roger,

If you are even thinking of doing bags boxes or purses, get a cylinder arm. There are so many times you have to tilt something to sew it and with a flat bed you just can't do that.

Art

thanks art! that is what i needed to know.

[bruce johnson]

Beeza,

And you can always get a table with a cut out for the cylinder arm to make it a flatbed machine. Some suppliers offer them as an optional accessory. I made mine bigger from plywood, and got the folding table leg set from the hardware store. It sits about 5" lower that the top of the arm. That works for sewing gusseted things like saddlebags and ropebags. If I need the table flush to the top, I slip sections of PVC pipe over the bottom of the legs to raise it up. My wife gets credit for that tip - she saw it on HGTV or one of those satellite channels. I did the same thing to raise my cutting table, $2 worth of PVC saves $$ bottles of Aleve from bending over slightly. PVC ergonomics.

[bcurrier]

thanks bill,

i know it's a lighter machine but, comparable to the flat bed machines i am looking at.

i would think the cylinder machine would be a bit more versitle but, being new to sewing machines in general i am relying what ever input i can get.

price is the biggest issue at the moment. i need to get something and get to using it then i will look to move up.

If unease is part of the decision - whether it's repairs, general support, setup, applications, whatever - then your best bet is to find a good local supplier of industrial equipment that can support you. Consult with them on your proposed uses and buy what they carry and recommend. Industrial equipment is not only specialized, it tend to lack flexibility as a result. If you don't know how to deal with that (mostly meaning adjustments) you'll need local support. There's plenty of posts here and elsewhere that will attest to that - typically lots of frustration about broken needles, timing problems, messy and broken stitches, and that sort of thing.

Bill