Holster making literature

[JLopez38]

Hey guys and gals,  I'm totally new to all this,  I just finished my first leather holster and it looks ok, but it's still pretty jank, I followed tutorials from YT, but I'm pretty certain there's some steps that I've missed, is there any How To books available for purchase that explains the process in detail? Any help would be appreciated, thanks

[Northmount]

49 minutes ago, JLopez38 said:

I just finished my first leather holster

Moved your post to gun holsters

[JLSleather]

what type of  holster?  Utube Sam Andrews - he's got some very informative videos on making leather holsters.  Might be one or two others, but Andrews skips the hours and hours of droning on and on and just shows how its done well.

 

[JLopez38]

It's for a compact semi-auto, designed for owb CC, I appreciate it,  I'll definitely check it out, thank you

[Hags]

You could always buy a pattern for the holster. It would help a lot to figure out your stitch lines etc. Adams leatherwork has a lot of good videos on holster making and how to do patterns. EDC has a lot of patterns as well as videos on how to design holsters.

Edited March 4 by Hags
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[Stitcher64]

11 hours ago, JLopez38 said:

Hey guys and gals,  I'm totally new to all this,  I just finished my first leather holster and it looks ok, but it's still pretty jank, I followed tutorials from YT, but I'm pretty certain there's some steps that I've missed, is there any How To books available for purchase that explains the process in detail? Any help would be appreciated, thanks

If you provide me with an email address, I will send you 2 useful PDF files.

[DoogMeister]

I find the Adams Leather Works you tube videos quite helpful and informative.  Have made several holsters - both pancake and Avenger styles - using his techniques.

[tsunkasapa]

Al Stohlman's book shows ow to design them from scratch.

[JLSleather]

On 3/3/2024 at 10:46 PM, Hags said:

Adams leatherwork has a lot of good videos on holster making ...

I disagree.  This guy is gabby, and the intent of the video seems aimed more at keeping you on the site than actually discussing holsters.  Take forever to "explain" the most basic act, appears to intentionally drag out the simplest idea.  Gabby.

On 3/4/2024 at 11:06 AM, tsunkasapa said:

Al Stohlman's book shows ow to design them from scratch.

The STohlman book is VERY good. Even if you're not making teh holsters shown, the PRINCIPLES are still valid.

ANd check out the "tutorial" on holsters in the holster section - PDF by Jim Simmons ... good stuff in there as well.

And SOMEWHERE around here are some PDF's I wrote a while back about LAYING OUT your own holster, and why it works.  They're free, so if somebody beats me to it and provides them that's fine.

 

On 3/3/2024 at 7:58 PM, JLopez38 said:

compact semi-auto, designed for owb CC,

which one?

Edited March 7 by JLSleather

[remotelarry]

9 hours ago, JLSleather said:

I disagree.  This guy is gabby, and the intent of the video seems aimed more at keeping you on the site than actually discussing holsters. 

Jeff, I disagree about the value of the Adams videos. He has some methods of work which are good to look at and the pace is OK to digest what he's discussing. His workmanship is good but the gripe I have with his patterns is they are 50/50 pancakes except for one he did on revolvers. I think one or two is worth a look. The EDC videos are a confounding waste of time.

[Hags]

They are both sources of info. Caveat emptor...

[JLSleather]

13 hours ago, remotelarry said:

Jeff, I disagree

okay 

14 hours ago, remotelarry said:

the gripe I have with his patterns is they are 50/50 pancakes

as are many of mine   I do make them NOT that and have had multiple requests to offer them.  SOME of them are in PDF form now, still working ...

MY point in them was the value of the user learning to design their OWN, and these "50/50" models do that very well (did I invent that term? maybe...).  WHERE IS them pdf's....

Oh, here we go.. might help with the original question.  I do need to get these files all combined into one... so theyz tgether and in order.... For now, I recommend the order here for understanableness...

Holster_Theory.pdf

PancakeLayout.pdf

IWBa.pdf

AvengerLayout.pdf

• Theory
• Pancake
• IWB
• Avenger

 

[wayner]

My 2 cents worth I have patterns from both because I stink at making my own patterns. I have never had to adjust anything on the patterns from JLS leather, now on Adam’s patterns I have had to make slight adjustments to every one of them I have bought. Now in saying that it could be because I’m used to the grip I get from the other patterns or how close the stitch lines are to the gun. 

[Mablung]

@JLSleather, thanks for the pattern instructions. That simplifies the process for me greatly, which my non-spatial, non-mechanical mind needs. I’ll use this for making a couple pancake holsters and refining others I make.

When adapting to more of a 80/20 molded holster,  where do you generally place the stitch lines? I’m planning to remake an AIWB holster I made a while back, in part because I think it stretched around the stitch lines too much. Trying to figure out how to keep a snug fit without making it excessively tight (some of which will come from improving my boning technique, I acknowledge). One complicating factor is that I have a WML on this particular pistol. 

[JLSleather]

2 hours ago, Mablung said:

to remake an AIWB holster I made a while back, in part because I think it stretched around the stitch lines too much.

i didnt' really follow this bit 

2 hours ago, Mablung said:

some of which will come from improving my boning technique,

not sure i'm addressing your issue here, either, but I'll say this.  I've seen SO many holsters where not much attention was given to the stitching placement, obviously.  Then they seemed to rely on "boning" to create the tension they wanted.  This will fairly quickly relax in and you end up with far less retention than desired.  ONLY time I have a stitch line not meticulously placed is either 1) Im' making a traditional 'western' holster and want to keep the look, or 2) I'm using tension screws w/ grommets.  In all other cases, I want that stitch EXACTLY where it belongs.

This was another issue I had with adams' patterns - stitch lines weren't particularly thought out.  When I attempted - more than once - to discuss that with the guy who made them, I was met with an excessively defensive response.  Meh.  I dont care WHO lays it out - I don't want holsters with a stitch line 1/4" or more from the weapon.

This one went to CA a long time ago, but I use the pics for discussion. This was for a Glock 27 (or was it a  26... I'd have to check records).  The customer asked for TOOLED, MONCHROME, THUMB SAFETY STRAP, and that '80/20' design style.

These pics show the 80/20 shape, but also the tooling shows i knew exactly where the stitching would land before making it.  Note the liner was NOT dyed.

The bottom corner shows "craftool" numbers - somewher along the line somebody wanted to know which tools I used on this.

AND THERE is a bit of the issue with making these other patterns available.  What to put out, and in what way, and for how much?  Include the tooling pattern, or no?  A guy could get SO detailed as to come with a formula - or 'recipe" - for that shade of brown and the thread used to match

WHO was it recently... asked about a P320 mag pattern off cutesy.  Apparently I laid that one out to go with the 80/20 holster, so I din't realize that folks might want the 50/50 version of that.  I do like to make the more stout mag carriers on a curve... like this P320, many of the Glocks, .. whereas a flatter mag like most 1911's isn't necessary.

9 hours ago, wayner said:

I have patterns from both

[Mablung]

10 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

i didnt' really follow this bit 

not sure i'm addressing your issue here, either, but I'll say this.  I've seen SO many holsters where not much attention was given to the stitching placement, obviously.  Then they seemed to rely on "boning" to create the tension they wanted.  This will fairly quickly relax in and you end up with far less retention than desired.  ONLY time I have a stitch line not meticulously placed is either 1) Im' making a traditional 'western' holster and want to keep the look, or 2) I'm using tension screws w/ grommets.  In all other cases, I want that stitch EXACTLY where it belongs.

This was another issue I had with adams' patterns - stitch lines weren't particularly thought out.  When I attempted - more than once - to discuss that with the guy who made them, I was met with an excessively defensive response.  Meh.  I dont care WHO lays it out - I don't want holsters with a stitch line 1/4" or more from the weapon.

This one went to CA a long time ago, but I use the pics for discussion. This was for a Glock 27 (or was it a  26... I'd have to check records).  The customer asked for TOOLED, MONCHROME, THUMB SAFETY STRAP, and that '80/20' design style.

These pics show the 80/20 shape, but also the tooling shows i knew exactly where the stitching would land before making it.  Note the liner was NOT dyed.

The bottom corner shows "craftool" numbers - somewher along the line somebody wanted to know which tools I used on this.

AND THERE is a bit of the issue with making these other patterns available.  What to put out, and in what way, and for how much?  Include the tooling pattern, or no?  A guy could get SO detailed as to come with a formula - or 'recipe" - for that shade of brown and the thread used to match

WHO was it recently... asked about a P320 mag pattern off cutesy.  Apparently I laid that one out to go with the 80/20 holster, so I din't realize that folks might want the 50/50 version of that.  I do like to make the more stout mag carriers on a curve... like this P320, many of the Glocks, .. whereas a flatter mag like most 1911's isn't necessary.

I didn't explain myself all that well, I don't think.  I may need to just reply later with some photos of the holster and a few arrows to try to depict, rather than explain in words, what I mean.  It's also by no means impossible that I don't quite understand what my own question is regarding that particular holster.

I do know that one of my questions is how to determine on an 80/20 design how to calculate where to place the stitch line.  It looks, in the pics you shared, as though you have the stitch line about as close to the firearm frame and sight channel as you can put it, pretty much right along the molding crease.  I tried to do that with my holster but am not sure I quite got it right.  The retention is generally fine while it's in my belt, for what that's worth.  (And I may have described a problem that doesn't really exist, as a result, for all I know.)

Tell me if that still doesn't really make sense and I'll try to rejigger my explanation this evening.

[JLSleather]

uh... I'm gonna guess at maybe I understood that.  Starting with.. 80/20 is a number I threw out there a few years back... it's not actually "calculated" to those numbers - just "about" that. Varies with the gun model, at least for me.  And yeah - the leading edge stitch line will often be RIGHT AT the edge of the pistol (probably most obvious with Glocks and other "square" pistols).  The trailing stitch line varies a bit depending on thickness of the gun, whether there are accessories mounted on it, etc.

This is the same Glock holster shown above ,you can see about how much break is in it.  It's not "flat" in the back, it actually curves beyond just flat to contour to the hip. Little harder to see since the pic was taken with a metal "dummy" that messed with the camera a bit.

 

This little Sig P238 right hand (green dummy gun) might show the difference with these smaller pistols, and the pic of the other is a P320 Compact (blue dummy) just to show that they are not all done "just" the same.

[JLSleather]

Oh, I DO use a "site channel", but generally not the full length of the holster. About the back of the port is bout as far as ya need most cases. Maybe this show it a bit better?  Channel ends at red arrow.

[Mablung]

@JLSleather Here are a couple pics of the holster I was talking about. Looking at it again, it seems the stitch lines are in basically the right places, but it still seems it stretched out a good bit. Boning could be better, to be sure. Couldn’t mold the trigger guard much because the pistol has a light on it. 

[JLSleather]

It actually looks like we need to get you a good piece of cowhide.  Using sub leather to learn the craft is like a guitar player trying to tune his ear with something off the walmart shelf

How thick is that?  I 'might' have a piece around here somewhere.

Off to somewhere right now, but I'll check back.

[Mablung]

53 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

It actually looks like we need to get you a good piece of cowhide.  Using sub leather to learn the craft is like a guitar player trying to tune his ear with something off the walmart shelf

How thick is that?  I 'might' have a piece around here somewhere.

Off to somewhere right now, but I'll check back.

That might be part of my issue. It’s 6/7 oz Tandy either Economy or Craftsman single shoulder. Appreciate you checking!

[bladegrinder]

A lot of great information here JLS, thanks. I recently had a request for a pancake holster with a snap strap over the hammer like in one of your pictures here. do you use "pull the dot" snaps on those? and do you use those round plastic protectors on the inside of the snap?

[JLSleather]

21 hours ago, bladegrinder said:

 do you use "pull the dot" snaps on those? and do you use those round plastic protectors on the inside of the snap?

Yes, and yes.

USUALLY, a 'regular' line 24 snap, a piece of spring steel and a rivet, give the thing some substance to push on. This one on the back of a 686 / Python holster.

 

22 hours ago, Mablung said:

That might be part of my issue. It’s 6/7 oz Tandy either Economy or Craftsman single shoulder. Appreciate you checking!

Busy again, but stil meaning to get back to this conversation. PM sent...

Edited March 13 by JLSleather

[bladegrinder]

Nice! thanks JLS.

[JLSleather]

9 hours ago, bladegrinder said:

Nice! thanks JLS.

Easy enough to put the spring steel between the outer leather and the liner - since this was all black it didnt' really matter one way or other, so this is done to show the construction.