Holsters question - lined vs unlined

[jt1]

Any opnions about the merits of a lined vs unlined holster? what are the pro's and con's of each. Just starting out and my design idea calls for a metal insert between the back of the holster and the belt attachments and I am thinking of enclosing it in between the holster back and a lining. Thanks for any thoughts you may have.

Edited February 16, 2008 by jt1

[Jordan]

Lining gives a real nice finished look, I don't know if from a functional aspect lining is worth it. Brings up the extra thickness issue and essentially your making two holsters. If a liner is wanted maybe rough side out would serve the same purpose? Personal taste I guess, If it is a western style I think a liner is a good idea for the finished look. Also any metal used like a snap, clip or retention strap definetly needs to be seperated from contact with the weapon but that could be accomplished without a full liner. Just my ramblings on the subject...Jordan

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Lining makes a smoother draw and still gives more surface contact with the gun (which minimizes wear over time), if you use a smooth faced leather. When considering materrials to use, I don't like pig skin, and I really don't like suade. Pig skin is often too clingy, which defeats the purpose, plus some folks don't realize they should only use veg tanned and bad stuff can happen to a blued gun this way. Suade is usually added to give the holster a softer contact with the gun, but reallistically, suade just ends up holding more dirt and grit in and eventually can wear the finish off faster than a non-lined holster.

I always line exotic holsters, either with cow or horse hide. For what you want to do, it makes sense to use lining. You can also accomplish the same thing just sewing an extra layer over the metal, so it's really up to you. If you do decide to use lining, remember to stitch the lining in everywhere along the edges, or eventually the material will try to separate from the stress of re-holstering.

[Warren]

Hey Boomstick, where do you get horsehide thats not outrageously expensive? The leather shops here only have fairly small pieces of horses butt and its about double what Herman Oak veg tan is. One thing I do like about it is that the flesh side is very smooth compared to cowhide. I could see where you wouldn't need to line a holster made from it. Another plus would be the stiffness. Those pieces of horsehide in the store will almost stand up by themselves they're so stiff. I haven't taken the plunge and bought any of it to try so any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks, Warren

[pete]

Hey Boomstick, where do you get horsehide thats not outrageously expensive? The leather shops here only have fairly small pieces of horses butt and its about double what Herman Oak veg tan is. One thing I do like about it is that the flesh side is very smooth compared to cowhide. I could see where you wouldn't need to line a holster made from it. Another plus would be the stiffness. Those pieces of horsehide in the store will almost stand up by themselves they're so stiff. I haven't taken the plunge and bought any of it to try so any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks, Warren

Check with Springfield leather- they have BINS full of scrap horse butts really cheap.

pete

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Hey Boomstick, where do you get horsehide thats not outrageously expensive?

Sorry, Warren. No such thing . I drive to springfield Leather about once a month to buy "horse butts". Some times I go home with several, and sometimes I walk away empty handed. The quality is always hit or miss. You can order horse butts on line as well, but I prefer paying more to pick them out in person. The really fun part is finding them long enough to make belts. WOOHOO!!!

Go ahead and try some horsehide next time. Just remember when it comes to boning the leather that it is an entirely different "animal" than cow hide (pun intended).

[Warren]

Well you can't blame a guy for asking! I think I will try some when I get around to making holsters for a couple of my automatics. What exactly do you mean about it being different? Harder, easier, what?

Thanks, Warren

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

A lot of folks think it's harder, but I just think it's different. I actually really like working with horsehide. I wish it wasn't such a pain to get it.

[K-Man]

Anytime you have the potential of metal coming in contact with the gun, knife, etc., you need to have it covered (or do some sort of redesign to move the metal away from the gun).

If you use quality leather, such as Hermann Oak or Wicket-Craig, and have it finished with a moss finish on the flesh side, you really should not need to line the holster. IMO, it's an unnecessary expense to the customer and saves you quite a bit of time in putting the holster together. To my knowledge, buying Hermann Oak from vendors will only bring you the tannery run leather. To get the moss finish, you have to order direct from Hermann Oak.

Exotic skins will not "stand alone." In other words, you have to apply them to a supporting type of leather, be it veg tan or horsehide. Oftentimes, the grain side of the leather is turned to the inside for the smooth finish. The flesh side is then turned to match up with the rough side of the exotic skin. This generally gives you the greatest surface for adhesion of the glue.

[jt1]

Thanks for the input, I will need some type of liner to shield the gun from the metal backplate. I'll post some pic's when I get it done.