Lumps and bumps in leather!

[fredk]

Using a creaser along an edge; I go very lightly at first to get a good line, then progressively press harder on each pass. It may take me as many as 6 passes to fully complete a crease. It doesn't take very long. Any tough spots are dealt with

Using an edger; If I run into a tough spot I turn the leather round and come at it from the opposite direction. This usually deals with it, If not I by-pass it and trim it with a scalpel

[TomE]

You could try heating the crease and using it on dry leather.  When the temperature is right the crease will glide with less resistance than at room temp.  Too hot and it burns the grain of the leather.  I use an alcohol lamp to heat the crease.  You will feel the heat coming up the shank of the tool when it's about the right temp.  Creasers come in many sizes and shapes.  Some are easier to use than others.  You can reshape them to change the width of the crease line.  The Osborne creasers (like all Osborne tools?) need a bit of smoothing and polishing to work really well.  Same for the Vergez-Blanchard screw crease.  I always crease after finishing the edges of straps  - beveling, dyeing, burnishing - then creasing.  I repeat the creasing after oiling and before applying conditioner.  

[SUP]

@fredk I'll try both techniques.

Up to now, I have been making a light line and then a firmer one. Maybe go a little slow as well so that I stop in time when I come across  a hard section of leather.

@TomE, I have bought a spirit lamp although not had the courage to use it for anything - scared I might scorch the leather. But I can try now, since it is only practice pieces. 

My fixed size creasers and beaders are fine, all old ones. The adjustable one is new and makes a thick line. Maybe I will thin it a bit. Currently, it is only of use to make a stitching crease.

I want to add creases to everything too - it looks polished.

[CalgaryJim]

On 4/22/2024 at 12:04 PM, TomE said:

You could try heating the crease and using it on dry leather.  When the temperature is right the crease will glide with less resistance than at room temp.  Too hot and it burns the grain of the leather.  I use an alcohol lamp to heat the crease.  You will feel the heat coming up the shank of the tool when it's about the right temp.  

When I use my alcohol lamp, it gives off smoke which blackens the creaser. The wick that came with it from WUTA is some synthetic fabric. What am I doing wrong?

[fredk]

A proper wick has a weave to it. It burns better if its the right way up. Try reversing the wick and keep it trimmed close so only a few mm are above the holder to burn. You actually do not want the wick burning but the alcohol vapours

[CalgaryJim]

19 hours ago, fredk said:

A proper wick has a weave to it. It burns better if its the right way up. Try reversing the wick and keep it trimmed close so only a few mm are above the holder to burn. You actually do not want the wick burning but the alcohol vapours

Thank you so much! This wick has no weave at all. Now where to source one. Google is bringing up lots for oil lamps, fibreglass weaved, cotton weaved too. Is one material better than the other?

[fredk]

Try quality wicks for candle making. Not the pre-waxed type though