Pqstraub Report post Posted May 31 If I need a pair of leather reins, and I want them to be barbwire stamped and stitched to match as close as possible to my headstall and also be 8’ long, what are my options or choices for leather and ounces. I only know, at least somewhat know that it needs to be Vegetable tanned to be able to be stamped. Is at least that much correct? Everything else I am not sure of. I know I have never even seen for sale leather that is over 70” which I know isn’t enough for 8’ reins. I also am very much aware that I will need someone to make them for me. Stamp them and stitch them. Since I don’t have anything that would sew heavy leather. And do y’all use two pieces of thinner leather and sew them together? Is this done to make the leather stronger? And what of harness leather? I’m not really familiar with the term nor do I think that I have even seen raw veg-tanned harness leather. I was told or I read that there is a difference between bridle leather and harness leather. If y’all could please help with advice or maybe one of y’all could just make me the reins like I want and I could pay you. If you let me know upfront what the cost would be. I can’t pay an arm and a leg. That was the whole reason I bought all the tools I have. Maybe you could make them, stitch them and I could stamp them and stain them, but for reins I know there’s a lot more to do that I don’t know and don’t have. I would like to learn though. Thank y’all. Paulette Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted May 31 Just for my own knowledge . . . why do you need them to be 8 ft long? May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomE Report post Posted May 31 Harness and bridle leathers are vegetable tanned cow hide that is stuffed with fats/waxes for water resistance. Plain vegetable tanned leather will accept tooling, stamping, and wet forming better than bridle or harness. Harness leather is generally stiffer than bridle bc of additional waxes added during the currying process. Bridle leather typically has a more polished/shiny finish than harness. I make English reins for jumpers and dressage out of 9/10 oz bridle leather. I make split reins for western riding from 10/11 oz harness leather. The split reins that I am familiar with are not sewn. The bit end either folds back on itself, or is capped with a leather chape and is tied with a latigo saddle string. I think the best bridle and harness leathers in North America come from the Herman Oak Leather Co. and Wickett and Craig Leather. The Hermann Oak bridle and harness leathers tend to be stiffer, which I equate with stretch resistant. Wickett and Craig is a bit softer temper and they offer bridle and harness leathers in a wide variety of colors. You can request samples from either tannery. Both are top quality tanneries. Wicket and Craig has no minimum order whereas Hermann Oak generally requires a minimum of a roll = 5 sides. Single sides of either leather can be purchased from retail distributors. You can request a side for reins and they will select a larger hide that should cover 7+ feet along the topline. Springfield Leather sells Hermann Oak and does a lot of custom clicking/cutting. They could probably sell you the straps you need for reins. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pqstraub Report post Posted May 31 Because my last set was 8 feet long and they worked great, work great. But I only wanted a set to match my current headstall. I had thought at the time it would not be a big deal but I am finding out differently. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pqstraub Report post Posted May 31 I have never to date used slobber straps or even the slightly shorter water straps, but I would think if I did add the slobber straps and snaps then the 7’ would be long enough. It is in my lifetime, and I’m 65, I have always used really long reins. Even way way back when I was riding my big Shetland Pony. I think he MIGHT have been part Welsh because he wasn’t much shorter than our Welsh, but the reins we used on both came down to my stirrups. They were soft enough that we could tie a knot in them so it was like we had loop reins. I have always had durable tough long lasting reins. I just thought they was the possibility of having pretty leather reins for once in my life. Does anyone have any recommendations? I’m not a rodeo person. I sure don’t break horses anymore and I don’t even ride as much as I used to. Not having my own horses for the last 12 years has been that problem, but a neighbor has a nice horse, 3 actually, and her husband has a tough enough time riding two, so she told me to ride this one whenever I wanted. I’m almost ready. I had a lot of work to get done to my saddle. Then I discovered I had no reins for my headstall. Which is why I’m here. And in case anyone is wondering, there was a very very long flat braided rope attached to my headstall that we were using those 12 years ago to gentle break our last two horses, but now it is all greasy and almost black and stiff. I didn’t think a pair of new reins would be so dang difficult. I’m about ready to just buy some stupid mecate reins, but like y’all I love leather. So this place is my last chance. I’m going to give up if no one on this site can help me or wants to help me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
