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Everything posted by Dwight

  1. Joann Fabric . . . they've got it or can order it. I've never used elastic on any of the many I've built . . . mine are all leather . . . Buy one . . . from a good maker . . . get a used one cheap on Ebay . . . see how they did it. May God bless, Dwight
  2. A friend asked me a week ago if I had a Taurus G3 . . . I answered yes. He then asked how hard it would be to make a box holster for one . . . looks like you got a meter or a book or something like that on your side. Told him it was a piece of cake. Made it . . . took it to him for final fit check . . . but not worried because we both got G3's. Welllllllllllll.................. his G3 turned out to be a G3 . . . mine is a G3C . . . 5/8 of an inch shorter barrel. Now I'll be making it over . . . and I'll have a G3C box holster in the plastic tub with the others I've collected over the years. God ahead and giggle . . . I have been . . . or I'd have to go bust something up. May God bless, Dwight
  3. Uhh . . . no . . . the loops always come out the exact same size . . . because the "form" that makes them . . . is the bullet that will be held in them. And yes . . . wet molding would probably describe the process accurately. OK . . . why would you want to integrate a rubber butt pad with a leather butt cover and shell holder . . . with a possible cheek riser on it?? The cheek riser and butt cover . . . they go together well . . . A butt cover . . . and cartridge loops . . . they go together well . . . cover, riser, and loops all go togetherwell . . . But a rubber butt pad??? I actually make cheek risers for scope shooters and they work well for some iron sights . . . I just lace em on like the pics enclosed. This one in the pic used brass grommets . . . it was a test run . . . didn't work out. We just punch holes in em now . . . and lace thru the holes. May God bless, Dwight
  4. Actually . . . I made em so when the belt was laid down on a table . . . the loops touched each other. Didn't have to worry when it was being worn . . . rounded backsides always separated them a tad. I tried following the sewing idea one time . . . doubt if I ever will do it again. This takes about the same amount of time . . . but I like it much better. besides that . . . sewn loops have to be sewn back somewhat behind the cartridge . . . or over time . . . they get loose and when the belt is taken off . . . clink clink clink . . . bullets on the floor. May God bless, Dwight Check the above post May God bless, Dwight
  5. I just looked at it real quick . . . noticed one thing I forgot . . . when you cut the leather for the belt loops . . . cut it about 1/16 of an inch wider than the slots you are using. That way when it dries . . . it dries with a nock in the leather at both ends of the slot . . . and does not allow the loops to move. The fellow who gave me the idea also said he used calf leather. I've never been able to get any calf leather here . . . so I've just used veg tan cowhide . . . have never had any real problems. May God bless, Dwight
  6. For the last 20 years + I have made cartridge loops mainly for gun belts similar to Marshall Dillon and others like him. I used a design I copied from some place . . . I've long since forgotten the originator . . . although he is certainly an intelligent fellow. The design uses a loop system . . . where you punch a hole . . . pull the cartridge leather up through the hole . . . around the cartridge . . . then back down thru the same hole. You use the actual cartridge . . . NOT AN EMPTY ONE because they have been shot and have expanded somewhat . . . and you end it with rivets at each end. You would not use rivets . . . just make the two ends go out an inch and a half or two . . . allow the leather to dry . . . then contact cement them to the backing leather . . . and it'll never move. You do the work with dampened leather . . . slightly wetter than you would if you were stamping it with a design. Pull the loops tight around the bullet . . . and what I do is take the bullet out once I have gotten about 8 or 10 of them done. The loop will be set by then . . . and pulling out the bullet allows them to shrink just a very slight bit . . . making the loop tight to hold the bullet after it dries and you put on the final finish. I use resolene . . . it works great. Just do not put it inside the loops. Look at the photos enclosed and holler if you have any questions. You will like the finish product I am sure. May God bless, Dwight
  7. Looking at the tool . . . . and the price . . . . I'd run from it. My 20 yr old Dremel is still working . . . does not work as good as it did back then . . . but I doubt if the Detroit will last that long. And my Dremel tool alone was almost twice that price. Best wishes . . . may God bless, Dwight
  8. OK, Folks . . . the project you all helped me get done is there in the Gallery. Thanks again for the advice and encouragement . . . May God bless, Dwight
  9. I had a guy want me to make him a 53 inch cowboy belt . . . took a while to make it . . . He needed a 56 when he came to pick it up. Fortunately I was able to salvage the job by making a new tongue and installing it for him free of charge. May God bless, Dwight
  10. Sometimes something is staring you in the face . . . and you cannot see it. I never gave a thought to how it could be arranged to work out right like that. Just thought ya stamped it and bordered it . . . and ya was done. That's part of why I never messed with it before . . . when I did try the results were much less than stellar . . . Thanks again . . . may God bless, Dwight
  11. Hmmm . . . never gave it a thought. Just set my square on the leather . . . went down the 45 side . . . started knocking out the stamps. Good to know tht there is a better way. NOW . . . other than the little half circle star like stamp I used . . . is there any other "border" tool that is normally used??? Sounds picky . . . but I hate doing the same old thing . . . every time . . . like a bit of spice or difference. I've got a deer hoof print tool and a butterfly print tool . . . both of which I hand made . . . will never be used again . . . but was fun using them the first time. Both made belts that went out as "One of............" belts. One of em went to my sister I lost this year. May God bless, Dwight
  12. Thanks to every one who replied . . . and I was wondering about rotating the pattern. I tried to look and figure out what angle most folks did their stamping at . . . kinda thought it was close to 45 degrees . . . so I grabbed my carpenter's square . . . laid it on the leather . . . and drug my stamping tool down along the edge to get two parallel lines at a 45 degree angle. Do most of you stamp at a different angle? As for the deeper / shallower impressions . . . 76 year old hands . . . doing something they never trained for earlier. Now if I could do the impressions with a lever action .22 or a semi auto military rifle . . . or a Remington typewriter . . . they would be spot on. AND . . . I had to get up and drag my $1.25 per pair . . . dollar store . . . seeing eye cheaters so I could see where that stamp was going to land. Man I hate wearing those things. I'll look up for my coffee . . . or to check on a sound . . . and my whole world goes to the "big blur" thru those dollar store cheaters. But again . . . thanks to you all for your advice and encouragement . . . the project is taking shape rather well . . . I didn't charge the guy enough for it . . . but I'm not planning on making a career out of these things anyway. But I do enjoy the challenge of a "one of a kind" leather project. Done many of them . . . hope to do more. May God bless, Dwight
  13. Well . . . I went out to my shop . . . thinking I had a couple of old basket weave stamps I got years ago from Tandy. Watched a video on "how to" . . . and started messing with it. Would just like you guys that do this . . . give me an honest . . . brutal if necessary . . . assessment of the second thing I did a basket weave on. It is a box that will be folded up and the basket weave follow around the sides. I'll post pictures of the finished project in a week or two . . . depending on how long it takes. I thought I had it today . . . found out I left out one of the really important pieces . . . this box I stamped. Thanks. . . . may God bless, Dwight
  14. I tried that years ago . . . found out it was a losing proposition. Make up representative belts "for show" . . . but not for stock. If you are well set up . . . you can get an order today . . . and ship it tomorrow . . . only one days difference from pulling it from stock. All you need is the leather properly oiled and dyed . . . cut to some 55 inch length or whatever your cow's side will allow you to cut them. You simply then grab two pieces the same color . . . work out the ends . . . glue em together . . . punch the holes . . . sew em . . . and put the final finish on it . . . and go to bed. Get up the next morning . . . pack and ship it. Your customer's will not know nor care the difference of one day. And you will not have them hanging there taking up space. I actually still have one unsold belt in my closet . . . will one day drop it off to the salvation army. May God bless, Dwight
  15. I would use a drill bit that is right at the diameter of the rivets in the top photo. I would use a brand new one . . . super sharp . . . and I would not get in any kind of hurry at all. You might even go in on the backside . . . use a drywall screw to keep it from turning . . . hold the drywall screw with a pair of pliers . . . and I'd do this in a drill press if you have that option. I've drilled out bunches of rivets from time to time . . . because of the dryness of the leather . . . it has probably shrunk . . . the rivet will spin if the drill big catches it . . . just be careful. May God bless, Dwight
  16. Make sure you post a picture when it is done . . . and don't forget to put plenty of beads on the flap . . . showing outside. Wouldn't want anyone to think your idea was "blowing in the wind" May God bless, Dwight
  17. Actually, Scootch . . . just a common basket weave will do for me. Being as honest as I can . . . I'd rather hand sew a 55 inch gun belt . . . than stamp anything. I've never been able to really get much more than a couple patterns to work like I want them to. And that is only a basic border stamping. I have a "one of a kind" project for a Texan . . . he wanted it to have a Texas flavor to it . . . and I just wanted to basket weave some of the smaller parts . . . but the cheap garbage Tandy stamps I've got . . . won't do it . . . and just as soon as I get a decent one or two . . . they're liable to wind up being ballast for the local garbage truck. Thanks to all of you for your suggestions . . . one of them will probably work out . . . Sergey and Barry King will get my attention for the time being . . . and we'll go from there. May God bless, Dwight
  18. Well J W . . . I'm gonna have to go against some of the grain here. I use pure neatsfoot oil . . . the compound is junk in my opinion . . . good for oiling chainsaws maybe . . . nothing more. I use only veg tan leather for the products I make . . . for the most part they are vacuum formed . . . sometimes hand formed . . . then allowed to fully . . . and I mean FULLY dry. I even have a drying box I occasionally use . . . max temp is 140 F . . . a couple hours in there dries them out really good. When I know it is dry . . . I get my 1 inch Harbor Freight bristle brush out . . . and my open container of neatsfoot oil. I put only 1 wet application . . . I go up and down the project . . . making sure every square inch of the hair side is covered and changes color from dry to wet . . . and I do not add any more than that. It then gets hung up to dry . . . not in the heat cabinet . . . just in my shop that is nominally 72 degrees year round. The next day (at least 24 hours later) it gets dyed . . . and I dip dye everything I possibly can . . . especially holsters, sheaths, and belts. My dye is Feibings oil dye . . . cut 50/50 with Feibings dye thinner. After dying . . . I paper towel off any pooling dye on the surface. Belts get laid in a circle on a piece of cardboard . . . and allowed to dry about 10 minutes . . . then I flip them over on the other edge to finish drying the next 24 hours. Holsters and sheaths are laid on their backsides on a similar piece of cardboard . . . it had had multiple treatments of resolene over the years . . . so dye does not leech out into the cardboard. I then apply my final coating which is virtually always Resolene . . . thinned 50/50 with water. This is the process I found that works the best for me. I ruined a few projects "back when" by not oiling my work first . . . especially when I was using Saddle Tan dye. It is one finicky dye . . . and I found without the oil . . . I might as well trash the work 75 to 85 percent of the time. Again . . . it is the process that works for me . . . maybe different from others . . . but the important thing to do is figure out what works for you . . . and stick to it. I've even got me a little reminder note stuck up by my dye pans . . . reminding me I need to oil stuff first. May God bless, Dwight
  19. I have a couple of junk basket weave tools that may become fishing weights or something. I have read in the past that there are some really good ones out there . . . especially one that has little "horns" on each end . . . line em up and your spacing is always perfect one person said. I just need someone to point me in the right direction as to where to buy them . . . have a basket weave job coming up . . . ain't using the junk tools any more. Will pass the job if nothing else. May God bless, Dwight
  20. Dwight

    Shoe repair

    My old standby for everything pretty much is Weldwood Contact Cement. I fixed the sole coming off my sneakers with it. May God bless, Dwight
  21. I had the same problem with a blue steel S&W 29 a few years back . . . 6 in bbl. I made a model out of pine . . . took me a couple hours . . . Revolvers do not usually get as finely molded as do semi auto's . . . My customer just smiled like he just won the lottery when I handed him the holster and he slipped his 29 in it. He was happy as a lark. They are not that hard to do if you are even half baked handy with woodworking. I'll get a picture of it later and put it on here for you. May God bless, Dwight
  22. Because I'm a cheap skate . . . I'd make one . . . give it 4 or 5 dip coats in Mop N Glo . . . made 50/50 Mop N Glo and water. I'm thinking that would settle any problems out . . . other than being a little slippery and slidy May God bless, Dwight
  23. It would be at least informative for others of us if we had pictures or drawings of these knots. I for one am always intrigued by mechanical things of this nature. May God bless, Dwight
  24. I'd really be tempted to say your need is why buckles were invented. But I wish you the best on your venture. Personally I would split the leather and stuff the attachment part up in the middle of that split leather . . . with the metal scratched up real good with the corner of a file or something of that sort . . . and put it together with Weldwood Contact Cement. Contact cement on both sides of the metal . . . and both insides of the split leather. Best wishes . . . may God bless, Dwight
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