cynthiab Report post Posted June 6 Hi guys. I'm working on a project on 1/4 inch leather and sewing on webbing straps. My machine is a Singer 111w155. My thread is 92 Bonded Poly, my needle is a #23 leather point. My stitches are nice until I make a turn. Then the machine jams up with multiple threads wrapped around the bobbin case (but not always). I'd like to know if others had this problem and how it was resolved. Thanks for your time and consideration, this has been driving me crazy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted June 6 My advice is to wait until the needle has risen about 1/8 inch above bottom dead center before making a sharp turn. It also helps if you lift the feet slightly to take pressure off of the item. If you make your turn with the needle all the way down, the hook hasn't picked off the thread yet and that leads to tangles. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kgg Report post Posted June 6 (edited) 7 hours ago, cynthiab said: My thread is 92 Bonded Poly, my needle is a #23 leather point. I agree with @Wizcrafts also another possibility is that Bonded Poly is just a touch smaller then the same size Bonded Nylon and the #23 needle is meant for V138 thread. The hole the #23 needle makes is really to large for the smaller V92 thread. I would try a #20 or #21 needle also make sure you are using a needle made for leather. If I remember correctly the Singer 111W155 takes a 135 X17 X Needle Size for fabric and 135 X 16 X Needle Size for leather. A good reference chart for thread to needle size can be seen here ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). kgg Edited June 6 by kgg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cynthiab Report post Posted June 6 Thank you Wizcrafts, I make my turns with the needle tip just entering the top of the leather. Between 1/8 th a 1/16 deep. If I bury it deeper I end up sooner or later twisting the needle or getting skipped stitches. What are your thoughts on this? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cynthiab Report post Posted June 6 kgg, thank you for your input. I appreciate your time. The reason I switched from a #22 to a 23 needle is that I was getting skipped stitches with the 22. If I sew a straight line I'm good with the #23. The problem comes when I make a stop and pivot for a turn; then after a few stitches more it's jammed. I have tryed to watch it with the cover open but the material covers the hole when I turn. Please bring out your magic wand and fix this... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted June 6 1 hour ago, cynthiab said: Thank you Wizcrafts, I make my turns with the needle tip just entering the top of the leather. Between 1/8 th a 1/16 deep. If I bury it deeper I end up sooner or later twisting the needle or getting skipped stitches. What are your thoughts on this? I sew patches onto bikers' vests with various walking foot machines, and a patcher. I always wait for the needle to come upwards before turning sharply. This keeps the thread loop inline with the hook. If you turn before the thread is picked off, you will probably get skipped stitched. SOP is bring the needle up after the hooks intersects it before making a sharp turn. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cynthiab Report post Posted June 6 I oopsed and forgot to up load some photos of the issue Im having with this. Hopefully this will help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cynthiab Report post Posted June 6 Is it possible that my bobbin case opener is out of time? (the little finger that moves back and forth) Untitled video (3).mp4 Sorry I couldn't upload a longer video. 1. 4 MB is all she takes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kgg Report post Posted June 6 3 minutes ago, cynthiab said: Is it possible that my bobbin case opener is out of time? Looking at the photo's and the video I am wondering if if the position finger of the bobbin holder isn't seated properly in the presser plate as shown at 0.44 of the video. kgg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cynthiab Report post Posted June 7 Thank you kgg. I checked it and it is seated properly. I have experimented with different threads. A 136 on top and a 92 in the bobbin case. It was a tiny bit better However, I'm still getting the threads wrapped around under the top edge of the bobbin case periodically. The stopping and turning seemed to be the culprit. But not always. I have followed what wizcafts suggested on the needle position before turning. That helped a bit too. However it's still hit or miss if I can sew on a peice of webbing to leather without it jamming up in the bobbin area or shreadding the thread. Ugh! By the way, I did retime the needle and made sure the gap between hook and needle was correct. Didn't help... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted June 7 12 minutes ago, cynthiab said: Thank you kgg. I checked it and it is seated properly. I have experimented with different threads. A 136 on top and a 92 in the bobbin case. It was a tiny bit better However, I'm still getting the threads wrapped around under the top edge of the bobbin case periodically. The stopping and turning seemed to be the culprit. But not always. I have followed what wizcafts suggested on the needle position before turning. That helped a bit too. However it's still hit or miss if I can sew on a peice of webbing to leather without it jamming up in the bobbin area or shreadding the thread. Ugh! By the way, I did retime the needle and made sure the gap between hook and needle was correct. Didn't help... There's only three things left that I can think of. Readjust the check spring for more or less travel, or tension, or slack. Check the main shaft to see if there is a lot of slop in the gears. If there is too much slop, starting and stopping with a jerk can throw off the timing. Check for sharp edges along the top thread path to the needle. If there's a thread guide on the bottom of the needle bar, remove it and check it for a sharp edge. Use Emory cloth to smooth it, or replace it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cynthiab Report post Posted June 7 Thank you I'm on it, and will get back to you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Uwe Report post Posted June 8 With this type of hook, you may also experience the thread falling off and getting caught under the hook if you stop at precisely the wrong moment, turning or not. That’s what your multi-thread pictures actually looks like. This topic from 2016 goes into details and possible fixes: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michiel Report post Posted June 9 (edited) I have seen twice a machine with a slightly bend upper axis Because of the load of the timing belt it sometimes resulted in the hook turning a little backwards when the machine stopped. (and than happend what you describe) this did not happen till the old motor (with break) was replaced by a servo motor. the first time it took me some time to figure out wat was going on…… Edited June 9 by Michiel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
