Members Dynamik1 Posted January 16, 2009 Members Report Posted January 16, 2009 Thanks everyone for your input...I'll get started. I bet the 3/4" Granite top cost a pretty penny. Hey Tom, I was thinking about a concrete top. I have a book that teaches you how to make concrete countertops for kitchens and baths and it looks pretty simple for a workbench too. Check out the link: http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/ho...rtop-forms.aspx? Quote
gtwister09 Posted January 16, 2009 Report Posted January 16, 2009 Hey Tom,I was thinking about a concrete top. I have a book that teaches you how to make concrete countertops for kitchens and baths and it looks pretty simple for a workbench too. Check out the link: http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/ho...rtop-forms.aspx? Not Tom but I have made several stones for people out of concrete. In fact my Dad's is 4" thick. He made his on steel legs. It has fiber mesh and high slump concrete in it. You can polish it to a high luster with the diamond blades and you can also acid stain it as well. We have done one with black and rose that looks very close to a Baltic Brown. The black stain was put down in a speckled pattern first and then it was followed up with the rose stain. Another one looks like the Galaxy granite and was just black stain added to the mix with a lot of silver flecks in it from some heavy glitter. One of the stones that we made looks just like a ledged surface plate so that you could get your hands under the edge of it to more easily move it around. It was 18X24 and still weighed 75 pounds. Cheng was one of the first to do this and add soft metal and stones to his concrete. You can also attend deminars across the country on concrete staining and countertops. They have ones that you pour into a form and some that you can pour in place. We have created our forms from melamine and created special coves for the edges with molding. The sky is the limit on this. I was creating a how to document for some others on making these for stamping stones. When I get it done I will forward it ion. Regards, Ben Quote
Members HarryB Posted January 16, 2009 Members Report Posted January 16, 2009 Just glancing over the other comments, I didn't see one feature I have that is GREAT: wheels. I bought heavy duty rollers, figured the height that I wanted, figured the height of the rollers, and then cut my 4 X 4 legs that much shorter minus 3/4". I first mounted the rollers on a piece of 3/4" plywood the same size as my bench top and built my bench on this bottom shelf. It gives an enormous amount of storage space. I also have two drawers mounted under my cutting surface that hold all my most commonly used edgers, stitching groovers, etc and patterns. My bench top was cut out of a 4 x 8 sheet of 3/4 plywood. I cut two feet off one end and 18" off the width. I hinged the 18" piece so that it can be raised like a table leaf and I kee the 2 foot piece that can be braced on the end, making a full 4 X 8 top when needed. The rollers make a breeze to move and sweep under plus I can use low shelves mounted on the wall that I can move the bench over to get to the shelves. Just another idea. Quote
Ambassador Luke Hatley Posted January 16, 2009 Ambassador Report Posted January 16, 2009 I HAVE SEEN HIS BENCH AND IT IS A GREAT WORK AREA, ESPECIALLY THE DRAWERS, WITH THE TOOLS CLOSE AT HAND, Quote Luke
Members ABC3 Posted January 17, 2009 Author Members Report Posted January 17, 2009 All great comments and they just keep coming. So I think I'll start off & build the frame & then come back to the forum & decide on the top. Space is not a concern & I do have 4 other work benches in the room (Including my reloading bench which I can't move). I'll just have to work around it. I think I'll go with the 4'x 8' for layout. Thanks for all your suggestions. I'm assuming pine for the frame - right...... Quote NRA Member Certified Firearms Instructor www.agcustomgunleather.com
Members HarryB Posted January 17, 2009 Members Report Posted January 17, 2009 (edited) Pine will work fine. I used 4 x 4 posts for my legs and 2 x 4 for my apron. If you are going with the 4 x 8 size I would upgrade to 2 x 6 for the apron. The only problem I have had in the past with a full 4 x 8 workbench top: magnatism! Everything in the shop seems to be drawn to it and I end up with about a 2 x 4 foot working area. Then it takes a couple of days to put everything back where it belongs. Edited January 17, 2009 by HarryB Quote
Members tonyc1 Posted January 17, 2009 Members Report Posted January 17, 2009 Pine will work fine. I used 4 x 4 posts for my legs and 2 x 4 for my apron. If you are going with the 4 x 8 size I would upgrade to 2 x 6 for the apron. The only problem I have had in the past with a full 4 x 8 workbench top: magnatism! Everything in the shop seems to be drawn to it and I end up with about a 2 x 4 foot working area. Then it takes a couple of days to put everything back where it belongs. I have the same problem! My main bench is 12' x 4' and I end up doing most of my work in an area about 3' x 2'. Tony. Quote
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