cobra skins questions

[Micah]

I bought a couple of cobra skins from snakeskin.us and they arrived today. one is a monacled cobra with the head that is going on a strap I'm making for a friend, the other is an orange-dyed spitting cobra skin w/o the head that will go on my own strap.

mine (the orange one) seems pretty smooth, can't feel the edges of the scales, but the other one feels like the scales are raised a little and may flake off over time without some sort of protection. I read in another post to use Leather Balm with Atom Wax or Carnuba Cream. It also says to use Neat Lac, which I have. But will the Neat Lac remain flexible enough over time to use on a guitar strap? I've only been using it for a couple of months on non-flexing items, so obviously not enough time to know how it wears over the long haul.

Another question on the snake head... it has been stuffed and still has the tongue, which I'd like to reshape to look as though it's flicking, not lopsided and curled up like it is now. any pointers on what to soften it up with to do that? is water suitable or does it need something stronger or better for the tissue?

EDIT: also, is there a way that the skin can be "bleached" or have it's hue changed a little bit? it has kind of a muddy brown tint, which is ok and I guess expected for the species, but I'd like to at least lighten up the whiter areas if not reduce the brown.

any help is much appreciated

Edited December 7, 2007 by Micah

[electrathon]

I bought a snake skin a while ago and ran into the same issue.

You want the scales to fall off, they will anyways. I soft bristle brush will loosen them and then the skin will feel much better to the touch. It will not harm it to remove them, it will help.

[Micah]

thx electrathon. I'll give the brushing a try

anyone have ideas on my other 2 questions??

[swivelsphinx]

You know, I just finished some cobra skin cuffs. I buy alot of snakeskin and lizard via Ebay. Sometimes I buy "2nds" which means that the skins can be a little beat on. There's many ways to go, but here's mine.

If a skin comes dry and flaky, I first treat it with Lexol conditioner. On the flesh side I apply a thin layer with a brush (sponge or chip). Often, skins from Indonesia (look for a stamp on the back) are kinda dry and papery. I wait a few minutes, then rub the remainder in with a soft cloth. Then I turn it over, and apply another thin coat *with* the scale (kinda like staining wood- "go with the grain"). I wait a few more minutes, and wipe the excess off, then roll it up and pop it into a sealable plastic baggie (even if it is only a little piece of masking tape). Thinner skins like whipsnake seem fine within a minimum of 20 minutes. Sometimes I leave them for a day or two if I am not in a rush. Big ones like big ol' pythons (like the 10 footers) I'll condition and re condition for a week. I like them flexible, because I make bags and belts.

Nice thing about this conditioner is that the skins don't seem resistant to dye afterwards. I sometimes "break" the finish with reducer, deglazer (deglazer can be harsh, and there is a little risk of small holes forming in thinner skins) or, if it seems really thin and delicate, even a 50/50 vinegar/water solution. I recently dyed a king cobra (which is kinda grey when I get them) royal blue. Boy does it look *good*. I'll post a photo here if you would like.

Ok. For my first finish, I brushed on neatlac. this left the skin stiff, but it was nice and shiny, and really brought out the darker part around the scales. I waited for it to dry, then buffed the scales (with the scale, always) I then applied "Saddler's TLC" to both sides ( I was out of lexol). Then I buffed again. You know, that skin stayed shiny, and that "oil shene" that neatlac can leave over a dye went away! I did my gluing with no problem, then final buffed finish. I have used TLC and Atom Wax. The TLC makes the skin flexible, but does not prevent glues from setting. (I either use a wood hide glue or Barge (original). Personally, I am not always a fan of caranuba, as it can leave a film. I happen to like my reptile skins to look kinda "slick"- shiny, not satiny. Many people do not put finishes on snakeskin. I can see why if the skin is not going to be dyed, and already has a nice finish on it. However, I like to protect the delicate scale, and do my best to keep it protected against moisture. I sell my stuff at outdoor festivals, and it can rain, turn hot, and of course, people like to get all touchy with their sweaty (and sometimes sun-block laden) hands. I can just wipe my gear off, and life goes on. Some people wonder why I do that multiple layer finish- seems like overkill to some. I also find it helps keep the edge of the snakeskin and the veg tan *sealed*. I *hate* putting tons of work into a piece only to have the edges peel back ever so slightly. A good finish seems to prevent that.

Thanks for the source for your skins- I love exotics!

swivelsphinx

[DCKNIVES]

Most of my work is sheaths and holsters and when I do snakeskins I usually use a finish coat of Leather Sheen.My personal preference for scales is to leave them on especially rattlesnakes but those require multiple coats of Leather Sheen to protect them.You can try Glycerin for softening up the tounge, I use it in the process for tanning snakeskins and it does a great job in softening the skins.I haven't tried changing colors so sorry no help there. Dave

you can also get exotics here Ostrich Market

[swinewerx]

Guys, I love exotic skins but in calif. it is illegal to buy, there is all kinds of alternatives, over the internet= bad choice; you don't get to choose which one you REALLY like. From the net they are usually very thinlike it is for clothing. Reno, nev has a tandy there, when I go there I usually buy all that I can or he lets me buy. Reno's tandy has very good quality skins . The other alternative is spring time fresh road kill that is not to mangelated or too smelly. I will not kill an animal just for it's skin, unless we are camping and need to eat that critter then it is ok. even though The tree huggers have made it difficult to aquire snake skins that don't even live here naturally, there are tanning solutions for snake skins at tandy in calif. also. First you skin it then salt the hell out of it for three days alkaline dehydrate, Then wash the skin removing all hanging chunks, the gently scrape the scales off. After that, apply the tanning solution to both sides of skin and either layout with the help of small finish nails or tacks or, the easiest yet wrap around a broom handle or post to the skin's size and let dry for about three more days. When done take off of the dry ing area and massage it to the supple feel you want and you can even stretch it a little, being that is what they do in indonesia. The bad about indonesia is that they stretch too much only cuz they want a few more cents. There is one last alt. Where I am a subcontractor , they will allow me to get what ever I want through them, the bad is they still pick it out no matter what you request or even offer to pay way too much. They want the extra money for nothing