Overwhelmed - Which industrial for leather bag making

[Novalee]

Hi, all. My sincere apologies if I am not posting to the correct forum. After spending weeks researching industrial machines, I’ve grown weary and confused. A few months ago, I purchased a Juki TL-18qvp with the understanding it could handle multiple layers of 2-3 ounce leather. I’m finding that not to be the case. In hindsight, while the Juki is an awesome machine, I should have purchased an industrial to suit my particular needs. My question is which machine is best suited for my needs but still provides some room to grow? At present, my focus is on leather handbags. I use 2-3 ounce leather, but I would like the option to up weight (not super thick). So far, I’ve only used tex70 weight thread (top and bottom). I thought I would purchase the Consew 206rb-5, or Juki 1541s, but I’ve since learned that a cylinder arm with flatbed attachment might be a better option. I’m looking at Techsew 2750, Techsew 2750 pro, Cowboy CB3200, and Cobra 26. Ideally, I’d prefer a machine that could handle the project from start to finish, meaning it has the ability to sew the thinner lining fabrics like linen as well. That might exclude some of the noted options. Budget is a concern as well and would prohibit me from buying a separate flatbed machine. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!! 

[kgg]

53 minutes ago, Novalee said:

 I thought I would purchase the Consew 206rb-5, or Juki 1541s, but I’ve since learned that a cylinder arm with flatbed attachment might be a better option.

 

53 minutes ago, Novalee said:

I’m looking at Techsew 2750, Techsew 2750 pro, Cowboy CB3200, and Cobra 26.

Those machines are basically clones of the older Juki LS-341. Getting a cylinder arm with a table top attachment and there are many available would be a good all rounder. It will give sorta kinda give you the ability of a flatbed machine. Remember there is no one machine that will do everything well. My experience is that some industrial machines even though rated for V69 ( Tex70 ) really don't like it and can be really finicky with thin thread in thinner items, preferring V138 (Tex135).

What you may find is using your Juki TL-18qvp for the linings and the cylinder arm for the leather portion of your project.

Most upholstery class machines like the Juki DNU-1541S are rated typically to handle up to 3/8" of leather while the cylinder arm machines like a Juki LS-341 can handle up to about 1/2" or so of leather.

The main problem with using 2 oz leather is going to be setting up the machine, cylinder or flatbed. Getting the knot to be buried in the leather.

My Juki DNU- 1541S hates working with thin stuff that is why I have a Juki DU1181N rated for V92 but I run V138 in that machine with no problems.

If you decide to go with a flatbed I would suggest going with the Juki DNU-1541S. I have owned both the Consew 206RB-5 and the Juki DNU-1541S. In my opinion the Juki is a much better machine.

Since this is going to be expensive no matter which machine you decide on I would suggest going to a vendor with a sample of your stuff and test drive some machines.

Buy Once, Cry Once

kgg

 

[Novalee]

30 minutes ago, kgg said:

My experience is that some industrial machines even though rated for V69 ( Tex70 ) really don't like it and can be really finicky with thin thread in thinner items, preferring V138 (Tex135).

I can't thank you enough for your thoughtful reply. Trying to sort out ALL of the machines and what is or isn't necessary has proven maddening (plus feeling like I wasted a lot of money on the Juki). My Juki TL18 maxes out at Tex70, I'm told. I have no issues using heavier thread so long as it is appropriate for the leather weight.

 

34 minutes ago, kgg said:

What you may find is using your Juki TL-18qvp for the linings and the cylinder arm for the leather portion of your project.

I thought this as well. My space is somewhat limited, but I can sort that out. 

 

35 minutes ago, kgg said:

The main problem with using 2 oz leather is going to be setting up the machine, cylinder or flatbed. Getting the knot to be buried in the leather.

I chose 2 oz due to the Juki's purported capabilities. Would this be the case with ... say ... 4 or 5 oz? 

 

38 minutes ago, kgg said:

If you decide to go with a flatbed I would suggest going with the Juki DNU-1541S. I have owned both the Consew 206RB-5 and the Juki DNU-1541S. In my opinion the Juki is a much better machine.

Since this is going to be expensive no matter which machine you decide on I would suggest going to a vendor with a sample of your stuff and test drive some machines.

Buy Once, Cry Once

I was leaning toward the 1541S due to Juki's reputation, support, and resale value. I then went down the rabbit hole of cylinder arms. They are impressive. Since this IS going to be expensive no matter what, and to put you on the spot (sorry!), which would you chose in my case? I'm an enthusiastic hobbyist who is trying to start a side business. I don't see myself branching out much beyond leather handbags of all shapes and sizes ... maybe some wallets. Professionally, I am an attorney and college professor, which likely accounts for the ridiculous amount of questioning (sorry again).

Again, thank you! I've already cried once (Juki), so I'd prefer to reserve the waterworks for something unrelated to sewing machines. LOL 

[Novalee]

49 minutes ago, kgg said:

I would suggest going to a vendor with a sample of your stuff and test drive some machines.

I failed to mention that I am not finding vendor's near me in central Florida other than Juki (about 2 hours south). That seems to complicate matters.

[kgg]

1 hour ago, Novalee said:

My Juki TL18 maxes out at Tex70, I'm told. I have no issues using heavier thread so long as it is appropriate for the leather weight.

According to the spec ( https://jukiquilting.com/media/catalog/product/t/l/tl-18qvp_instruction_manual.pdf ) on page #4 your machine is only rated for V46 (Tex 45) max as it on that a domestic needle up to a #14. That did surprise me. Most domestic sewing machines can handle V69. If I'm not mistake that is usually a spec for quilting machines.

In my opinion V69 thread is the cross over point from domestic to industrial machines.

Here is a good needle size to thread size:  ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) which also gives the strength of the thread.

1 hour ago, Novalee said:

I chose 2 oz due to the Juki's purported capabilities. Would this be the case with ... say ... 4 or 5 oz? 

In most cases as the thickness increases it is easier to bury the thread knot with the right machine.

1 hour ago, Novalee said:

I failed to mention that I am not finding vendor's near me in central Florida other than Juki (about 2 hours south). That seems to complicate matters.

I do really like Juki machines but you can get a comparable clone for a lot less which may serve you really well. If you go the clone route ask the vendor what it is a clone of from that you can determine pretty quickly what it's capabilities are. Still unsure just post a question to the form before you buy, I'm sure someone will be able to help.

kgg

[toxo]

@Novalee Before you confuse yourself with machines you need to think a bit more about what you might want to do in the future. If it's bags that you want to do (as I do mostly) working with thin leather is fine for bags that don't need to stand up but might limit your options in the future. Having said that, even the most robust bags like satchels and briefcases don't use uber thick leather and even then it's likely to be softer than the stuff some are using on here for their saddles, holsters, gunbelts, etc. 

Just saying your machine doesn't have to handle the thickest material and usually the price goes up with the thickness.