difference between the red & white Jewelers Rouge

[cjbleather]

I use both the Red and white rouge sticks. I bought both from Tandy years ago. Tandy used to only sell the red rough sticks, but then they started with the white for some reason. I've found that the red is more abrasive than the white. I keep to stropping sticks close by and will sometimes hit the blades with the red and then a few strokes with the white. That gives me a really sharp edge on my blades. Another thing is for my rough strops I usually make them using Crocus cloth. That is something that is almost like a smooth sand paper. When I did construction work, most of the time I worked in Maintenance Support for the contractors. The Crocus Cloth was used to help get a really good polished finish on some of the Valve Seats, and misc. Turbine parts. Anyway I've found it to be good stuff and I hope that I can find some more sometime soon as I'm down to just 3 or 4 sheets now. Some of the other compounds named are good to. Some people swear by something else that is called Yellow something. I haven't used it, but the ones I've heard from that use it I trust that are right as they are really good leatherworkers/saddle makers. Anyway I hope this helps a little, Kindest Regards Billy P

Billy I believe the compound that you are refering to is called Yellowstone. I am not sure where it got its name, but it is more peach color than yellow. I believe that this is a favorite of wood workers for sharpening their cutting tools. I have some and I think it is graet . I use it as a first go and then polish with Red Rouge. Since I started using this, I have improved my sharpening results. Carlb

[gtwister09]

Some additional information/terminology about buffing and polishing

Polishing - This generally denotes removal of material from the surface. This is generally accomplished with sandpaper. microfine grits and/or coarse compounds like black emery.

Buffing - Generally denotes a smoothing operation that produces high luster or mirror finishes. Usually buffing wheels and buffing compounds are used. It can be divided into two separate steps (1) cutting and (2) coloring.

As I stated earlier buffing and polishing compounds are generally used interchangeably. They refer to abrasive fillers that are usually combined with greases to form into solid bars or liquids. Yellowstone is generally a dry compound but it also comes in bar form. It is generally on the scale between white and red. It is close to the same level of fine as green which is generally used for stainless. I did not include it on the chart. Here's the levels from coarsest to finest -- Black Emery --> Brown Tripoli -->White Rouge --> Green Stainless --> Jewelers or Red Rogue. Then along comes Blue All Purpose.

Cut Buffing - The preliminary step to coloring usually with a coarser buffing compound. It removes scratches and smooths out the surface. Black emery is the coarsest and brown tripoli is next. Sometimes brown tripoli can be used to cut and color at the same time with softer metals like copper, brass and aluminum.

Color Buffing - This is the step that brings out the best or maximum shine. It produces the mirror like finish. As stated earlier brown tripoli can be a double-duty compound for the softer metals. White is used to color stainless, steel, brass, chromium and aluminum. Likewise green stainless can be used as well. Red rouge is used to produce the mirror finish on gold, silver, sterling, platinum and sometimes brass. As shown these are generally precious metals thereby getting it's name Jewelers rouge.

See the earlier chart for materials and compounds to use. Remember the cutting and coloring.

Ceramic Blades

I have used both the brown tivoli and blue general purpose on ceramic blades.

ZAM

I have only used ZAM on stainless to this point. However it states that it could be used on any material that green stainless bar is used upon. The brown tivoli was used to remove a slight scratch in the blade.

[Skipknives]

Qt-twister,,try the Zam on gold or stabilized wood and bone/antler or ironwoods,,then let me know,,

I'll bet you come over to the dark-side,,let me know

(the blade is ATS-34 the bolsters are 416 stainless handle is stabilized redwood

Edited December 14, 2007 by Skipknives

[gtwister09]

Skipknives,

Absolutely GORGEOUS! Great execution and design!

I will have to give it a whirl on some wood.

Thank you for the picture. Definitely worth a thousand words!

Regards,

Ben

[pete]

I just re-visited my book "the leatherworking handbook" mentioned the other day in a post as a good reference book. I was checking out the part about stopping and the author said to put the rouge on the FLESH side when making a strop.

I've seen that before but....

DOES ANYONE OUT THERE USE THE FLESH SIDE WHEN STROPPING???

[Skipknives]

yes Pete,,i do like using a razor strap then flip it over and repeat on the smooth side for a final dressing

PS: i found out that a scrap of Elk hyde will clean the left over "Gum/grease" from rouge off your swivel blade or any other blade quicker and easier then paper towel or cloth.

Edited December 14, 2007 by Skipknives