Hand sewing boots with saddle stitching

[Larryvaan]

I'm planning doing leather boots with hand stitching using waxed linen thread.

Idea is to create as water repellent boots as possible. And because seams are the weakest point in boots,  I was thinking that could the hand stitched seam be good for this.

Is the saddle stitching with waxed linen thread creating more waterproof seam compared to machine sewn with ex. cotton thread?
Can I create more tight/locked seam this way to prevent water going through.. Or is it just a waste of time and efforts.

 

[fredk]

I think; You would need a double sewing line; two lines spaced a few mm apart, and maybe the leather glued together as well

[Larryvaan]

Yes, double sewing of course, for strengthening the constructions. And gluing the pieces before sewing.

But that comes to stitch, can I get it more water repellent or even more waterproof, with hand sewing compared to machine sewing.

Goretex lined boots or rubber boots are way too warm at summertime for me, that is why I am thinking this.

Unlined breathable leather boots, with water repellent capabilities could be way to go.

[fredk]

Double line stitching isn't really for strong construction, although it will help,  but for water proofing. If you look at commercial goods, such as motorcyclists' jackets, you'll find they are double stitched, and they make a good deal of noise about it

I don't use a sewing machine so I'd have to say, hand sewn saddle stitching. You can pull the stitches up really tight

[chuck123wapati]

7 hours ago, Larryvaan said:

I'm planning doing leather boots with hand stitching using waxed linen thread.

Idea is to create as water repellent boots as possible. And because seams are the weakest point in boots,  I was thinking that could the hand stitched seam be good for this.

Is the saddle stitching with waxed linen thread creating more waterproof seam compared to machine sewn with ex. cotton thread?
Can I create more tight/locked seam this way to prevent water going through.. Or is it just a waste of time and efforts.

 

The most water-tight seams I know of are done by the Eskimo tribes on their mukluks. They are hand-sewn but they don't use a saddle stitch nor a regular seam as we would see on a boot. As for your question  It's a waste of time and effort IMO, leather isn't "waterproof" so no saddle stitch in the world will help in that respect and you can easily buy products that will make the stitching and leather water-repellent for a time. Now for a learning project, you have a great idea, shoes weren't always machine-sewn it sounds like a fun project so go for it.

[Larryvaan]

That's what I was thinkin.. But as you said, this is a nice idea to do, so I will do it by hand sewing.

 

[TomE]

I have trouble using a saddle stitch inside boots when replacing a zipper on a riding boot (I don't have a patcher machine to stitch inside the heel).  When access to the backside of the stitching is limited you can use a lockstitch like a sewing machine.  Some folks use a speedy stitcher.  I use a jerk needle (American Straight needle #5; https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/machine-needles/) mounted in a pegging type haft (leather ring pegging haft;  https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/awl-hafts/).  You hook the needle with the bottom thread by feel, pull it through the hole, and complete the stitch on the topside.  There are some Youtube videos on sewing with a jerk needle, and it was a discussion topic here.

 

Edited December 5, 2024 by TomE

[Larryvaan]

Lockstitch sound a good idea too. I ordered a lockstitch tool and give it a try.

I wonder, when doing unlined shoes, could the seams inside the shoe cause friction to foot? Heel might be the biggest issue.  I was going to use 18/3 linen thread, which is about 0.7-0.8mm in thickness (metric system)
Does this need to be taken into account somehow. Making groove for stitching, but this is quite a big job to do.

 

[TomE]

I don't know much about shoe making but I enjoyed reading this book by Harry Rogers https://www.amazon.com/MAKING-HANDMADE-SHOES-STEP-STEP/dp/B0BM57TF35.

[Mablung]

Are you making stitch down or lasted construction?

[Larryvaan]

Lasted construction

[Mablung]

I doubt the seams would cause terrible annoyance to the foot, as long as you tighten the stitches adequately. 

[fredk]

and skive the adjoining leather to a knife-edge thinness

[Larryvaan]

On 12/15/2024 at 8:43 PM, fredk said:

and skive the adjoining leather to a knife-edge thinness

Yes, thats a good advise. 

I have tested and practiced hand sewing for a while.

I am using 18/3 linen thread, which seems too small. The needle is 1mm thick and the hole maker is 2mm thick. The thread does not fit tightly in the hole. I need to find a thicker thread, or trying to make smaller hole but it is also difficult to achieve.  

It is hard to find any thicker linen, 16/4 is next to try. Maybe trying cotton thread also, there seems to be more choises. I need to use natural fiber thread, so polyester is out of question.