super bull 2000

[esantoro]

I've had a super bull 2000 for about a month now and am wondering about how many hours I can sew with the machine before needing to adjust the timing? What are other maintenance issues that will routinely come up with this machine?

Thanks,

Ed

[bruce johnson]

Ed,

Ummmm, don't know. I used my Adler for 5 years and never retimed it. Have had the 2000 for almost a year and ditto. I guess it would depend on if anything happens like a severe needle jam into the bottom feed dog, or some other mechanical thing to knock it out of timing.On the Adler I broke a few needles on the feed dog, and bent/broke a couple dogs too, but still sewed like a champ once those were swapped out. I oil religiously with a mix of hydraulic jack oil and Prolong oil additive (from the auto parts section). Ferdco told me to use that mix. Every so often I clean with Ballistol. Take the hook out and clean the little grunge things that collect in there and in the race. There are some grease places under the face plate for once a year maintenance on the 2000 I think.

We should probably move this over to the sewing machine section, maybe Johanna or Art can do that. Have a good one.

Bruce Johnson

[Art]

Hi Ed,

Having a machine go out of time (especially a big FERDCO or Artisan) is not a frequent occurance. This condition is usually the result of some unnatural condition like needle crash, but in my experience these machines are much more robust than a 250 needle. FERDCO doesn't even give a retiming procedure in their manual but says to call them. The two machines you are referring to can sew 7/8" of hard leather continuously. I have never pulled one of these machines out of time. For our uses, timing should not be a consideration, however stuff happens. For production machines that are run 24X6 (day 7 is for maintenance), parts wear out and need replacement and timing is just part of putting it back together. Timing is checked during maintenance and seldom needs retiming, if needed more than exceptionally, a supervisor might be notified to check the operator. Remember that the production version of these machines run quite a bit faster than our versions and do require more maintenance.

Maintenance wise, use bonded poly thread, check the thread path for burrs, use a lube pot if possible (especially where you will get the needle hot), check for burrs on the feet, hook or shuttle. Oil everything that will wear (except on Campbell and older machines that have things that should NOT be oiled). Mineral oil has been used for years and works fine. Stainless machine oil works well also ander many different names. Campbell Boswell also sells machine oil for $4 or so a quart so there isn't a reason to not oil every time you use the machine. Get some little engineers oil cans from eBay (they are hard to find new), they are the little click-click oil cans we used years ago, they get into places well and they, unlike a squeeze bottle, dispense a measures amount.

Unless you "get-off" on sewing machines (yeah, I've been accused of that), IF IT AIN'T BROKE, DON'T FIX IT.

Art

Any yes, this thread should be in sewing machines but I don't have a clue how to get it there.

I've had a super bull 2000 for about a month now and am wondering about how many hours I can sew with the machine before needing to adjust the timing? What are other maintenance issues that will routinely come up with this machine?

Thanks,

Ed

[esantoro]

Ed,

Ummmm, don't know. I used my Adler for 5 years and never retimed it. Have had the 2000 for almost a year and ditto. I guess it would depend on if anything happens like a severe needle jam into the bottom feed dog, or some other mechanical thing to knock it out of timing.On the Adler I broke a few needles on the feed dog, and bent/broke a couple dogs too, but still sewed like a champ once those were swapped out. I oil religiously with a mix of hydraulic jack oil and Prolong oil additive (from the auto parts section). Ferdco told me to use that mix. Every so often I clean with Ballistol. Take the hook out and clean the little grunge things that collect in there and in the race. There are some grease places under the face plate for once a year maintenance on the 2000 I think.

We should probably move this over to the sewing machine section, maybe Johanna or Art can do that. Have a good one.

Bruce Johnson

I over oil if anything. I like the idea of using Ballistol and the hydraulic jack oil/ prolong additive combo, especially on areas away from where the leather will be. What ratio should the mix be?

On the Super Bull to you oil behind the face plate, or just greaseonce a year. Whenever I oil there, some oil runs down the needle and onto the leather I'm working on, though I do use stainless machine oil on anything close to the material area.

I like the idea of using a tin oil can that spurts out a measured amount. I've got the squeeze bottles. Can anyone post pictures of oil cans they like using?

Ed

P.S. Aren't we in the sewing machine forum?

Edited February 23, 2007 by esantoro

[Art]

Hi again Ed,

Over-oiling generally doesn't hurt anything but it can collect dust. Also go light on the bobbin/shuttle/hook races as you don't need a pool down there. I oil very lightly there as I use a lube pot on everything but the 618 and enough works it's way down. The oil cans (even the little ones) sometimes give too much oil especially on needle bars etc, so I just squirt some on a finger and rub it on. I'll take some pictures of the oil cans I use and post them this weekend.

We are now in the Leather Sewing Machines part of the Fabrication forum thanks to a little birdie who moved us there. Having a forum that runs a smooth as this one is a joy compared to the Yahoo puppy. Thanks to Johanna and her moderators for making this run so well. Nothing like a well oiled machine.

Art

I over oil if anything. I like the idea of using Ballistol and the hydraulic jack oil/ prolong additive combo, especially on areas away from where the leather will be. What ratio should the mix be?

On the Super Bull to you oil behind the face plate, or just greaseonce a year. Whenever I oil there, some oil runs down the needle and onto the leather I'm working on, though I do use stainless machine oil on anything close to the material area.

I like the idea of using a tin oil can that spurts out a measured amount. I've got the squeeze bottles. Can anyone post pictures of oil cans they like using?

Ed

P.S. Aren't we in the sewing machine forum?

[Art]

Hi Ed, et al,

As Promised, picture attached of some of my oil cans. The one on the left is for bottom ends of sewing machines (where the connecting rod is in the verticle column) and the one on the right is a Dritz sewing machine oiler from JoAnn Fabrics. The ones in the middle are the engineers oil cans I have been talking about. I don't know if anyone actually manufactures these anymore. People also collect these so ones without names or markings will probably be cheaper to purchase.

Art

[esantoro]

Hi Ed, et al,

As Promised, picture attached of some of my oil cans. The one on the left is for bottom ends of sewing machines (where the connecting rod is in the verticle column) and the one on the right is a Dritz sewing machine oiler from JoAnn Fabrics. The ones in the middle are the engineers oil cans I have been talking about. I don't know if anyone actually manufactures these anymore. People also collect these so ones without names or markings will probably be cheaper to purchase.

Art

Art,

Thanks for the picture.

Ed