is there a way to fully cover a belt (1 1/2" wide), a belt bag and leather belt cover on a ligther shade?

[Patrice]

I finished a order for a customer, but the color on the belr, leather buckle and belt bag is far to dark, than it was supposed to be

Before a re-do de whole order again, is there a way to fully cover a belt (1 1/2" wide), a belt bag and leather belt cover on a ligther shade? I don't have a airbrush, only dauber and sheep wool scrap.

The guy want Fiebing dy "British Tan", but even if i try to used the least dy on the dauber, it's alway doing a job with streaks. When i want to do a more uniform finish, i'm ending with a piece of leather far more darker than i'm expecting.

So, i would like to know what can i use ? I'm willing to buy paint brush too...

I read back and forth The art of coloring leather from Al, but it seem that i cannot achivied a ligth color finish

So, please, help me I don't want to re-do the whole thing 5-6 times

P.s. I'll be posting pictures tonight or tomorow morning.

Edited February 23, 2007 by Patrice

[pepin1948]

I have the exact same problem - streaking or too dark - with Fiebing's British Tan. It's such a beautiful color when it works right.

[ClayB]

I finished a order for a customer, but the color on the belr, leather buckle and belt bag is far to dark, than it was supposed to be

Before a re-do de whole order again, is there a way to fully cover a belt (1 1/2" wide), a belt bag and leather belt cover on a ligther shade? I don't have a airbrush, only dauber and sheep wool scrap.

The guy want Fiebing dy "British Tan", but even if i try to used the least dy on the dauber, it's alway doing a job with streaks. When i want to do a more uniform finish, i'm ending with a piece of leather far more darker than i'm expecting.

You might try reducing the dye about 50 % with dye reducer or isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol before you apply it. That should give you a lighter color. If it is too light, you can apply another (or several) coats. You can always make it darker, but not lighter.

I came across an article in an old magazine awhile back that I found interesting on spirit dyes. It said that they saturate the liquid with pigment and whatever can't be absorbed, settles to the bottom of the bottle. If some of the liquid evaporates, more pigment will settle to the bottom, keeping the color the same. It said that if you shake a bottle you will suspend more pigment into the liquid and make the color darker until the extra pigment settles back out. The article said to never shake your dyes before using them.

It's been said here before already, but always try your finishes on scraps before applying it to your finished projects. It's usually not fun to get surprises at that point.

[whinewine]

You might try bleaching??? Oxalic acid, which tandy no longer carries, or wood bleach from Lowes or Home Depot, might (or certainly might not) work to lighten it up. I believe there are other posts on this site on using bleach (maybe even one about using lemon juice). Unfortunately, the damage may be already done, and nothing may help at this point, but good luck. (Fiebing dyes tend to be dark, anyway.)

I find it better to spray my dyes, rather than use a dauber or a paintbrush. Daubers always streak and one ends up doing more applications of dye to try to even out the color- hence, the very deep colors. Spraying makes the colors go on lighter, uses less dye and you can spray multiple coats till you get the deepness you want. And the coverage seems to be more uniform on today's leathers which (tend to take dyes less evenly). For coverage of a large area, you can use a spraygun (which I don't have), or you can use the Preval units, which consist of a glass container (holding about 8 oz, or so) and a throwaway power unit. Tandy's prices are a little steep for them- i get mine at places that cater to autobody shops exclusively. For the price of what tandy charges for 1 power unit, i can get an entire unit (glass AND power unit) and have some money left over. Suggestion is to buy several complete units, plus extra power units- that way you can have several different dye colors ready, each in their own separate bottles, ready to go.

Edited February 23, 2007 by whinewine

[abn]

It said that if you shake a bottle you will suspend more pigment into the liquid and make the color darker until the extra pigment settles back out. The article said to never shake your dyes before using them.

I've found, especially with the 4 oz. dye bottles, that if you don't shake them, then you have to throw away the last 25% of the bottle because it's so pigment-loaded. Otherwise, the pigment-loaded dye gives the leather a glazed-over look, and you'll literally wear yourself out trying to buff all that stuff off the surface.

I always shake the bottle... I always use the dauber... and consequently, I always end up with really dark shades. I think the combination of cutting the dye with dye reducer and using an air brush are probably the best options for folks wanting a lighter color.

-Alex

[whinewine]

By the way, I should have clarified my post: the preval units are NOT airbrushes. (I do have an airbrush, which I use for close- in dyeing, but they are NOT good for large areas.- so I use the Preval units). I just feel that the dauber puts on too much dye, which, if it is spirit dye, tends to make the leather too hard & stiff because it removes too much of the oils in the leather. I've had customers even complain that the carved, but lightly sprayed leather was 'too hard'- so i worked in lots of lexol for them.

[pepin1948]

I always shake my stain and dye bottles, and almost always use a dauber. British Tan is the only dye I've ever had a more frequent than rare problem with.

If you want to remove the color all together and start over, I've successfully used a dye remover that Tandy sells. Sorry that I can't remember the product name.

[Patrice]

I always shake my stain and dye bottles, and almost always use a dauber. British Tan is the only dye I've ever had a more frequent than rare problem with.

If you want to remove the color all together and start over, I've successfully used a dye remover that Tandy sells. Sorry that I can't remember the product name.

I'm a bit limited when it comes to order chemicals products form USA. I'm not full time in the leather industrie and don't have a tax number, so, i can't import everything.

So, my only source is Tandy Leather in Barrie Ontario.

If you can give the name of the dye remover Wildorse, i would appreciated it!

The guy i'm making is order is comming sunday or monday. I'll show what the piece look like and he will decide if he'll all the thing!

[Patrice]

you can use the Preval units, which consist of a glass container (holding about 8 oz, or so) and a throwaway power unit. Tandy's prices are a little steep for them- i get mine at places that cater to autobody shops exclusively. For the price of what tandy charges for 1 power unit, i can get an entire unit (glass AND power unit) and have some money left over. Suggestion is to buy several complete units, plus extra power units- that way you can have several different dye colors ready, each in their own separate bottles, ready to go.

I foud a place near Montréal wher they sale preval spay unit in a box of 12. The kit contain' the power unit and a 8onces bottle. For a box of 12, the price is 84,50$ candian, and, if paid cash, i'm not paying taxes

So, you can be sure that i'll be heading to this place monday evening!

[abn]

By the way, I should have clarified my post: the preval units are NOT airbrushes. (I do have an airbrush, which I use for close- in dyeing, but they are NOT good for large areas.- so I use the Preval units). I just feel that the dauber puts on too much dye, which, if it is spirit dye, tends to make the leather too hard & stiff because it removes too much of the oils in the leather. I've had customers even complain that the carved, but lightly sprayed leather was 'too hard'- so i worked in lots of lexol for them.

Whinewine, thanks for clarifying. Now, a question on the Preval units -- is this something that should be done outside? I might like to try something like that, but would prefer not to blast the whole room with a new coat of British Tan...