Adventures in watch strap making

[dirk87]

Hello all,

I recently started making watch straps as a hobby. I’m collecting allot of info and trying out different things.

I wanted to start a topic where i can share my work and findings in the hope it can be of value to someone else. 
I intend to randomly post my progress and experiences on construction and finishing.

Below are my 2 latest straps

1
20 to 16mm taper
Outer: buttero biscuit 0.9mm
Lining: alran sully gold 0.9mm
Inner layer: generic veg tan 0.8mm
Thread: meisi superfine linenM40 caramel
Stitching: CH 2.7mm
Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed
 

 

2
20 to 16mm taper
Outer: buttero whiskey 0.9mm
Lining: zermatt 0.9mm
Inner layer: salpa 0.4mm
Reinforcement: velodon 0.1mm 
Thread: meisi superfine linen M40 cream
Stitching: CH 2.7mm
Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed

 

3d printed folding jig i’m using:

 

please leave me any comments, questions or critiques…

more to follow

Edited 22 hours ago by dirk87

[Cumberland Highpower]

25 minutes ago, dirk87 said:

Hello all,

I recently started making watch straps as a hobby. I’m collecting allot of info and trying out different things.

I wanted to start a topic where i can share my work and findings in the hope it can be of value to someone else. 
I intend to randomly post my progress and experiences on construction and finishing.

Below are my 2 latest straps

1
20 to 16mm taper
Outer: buttero biscuit 0.9mm
Lining: alran sully gold 0.9mm
Inner layer: generic veg tan 0.8mm
Thread: meisi superfine linenM40 caramel
Stitching: CH 2.7mm
Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed
 

 

2
20 to 16mm taper
Outer: buttero whiskey 0.9mm
Lining: zermatt 0.9mm
Inner layer: salpa 0.4mm
Reinforcement: velodon 0.1mm 
Thread: meisi superfine linen M40 cream
Stitching: CH 2.7mm
Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed

 

3d printed folding jig i’m using:

 

please leave me any comments, questions or critiques…

more to follow

25 minutes ago, dirk87 said:

Hello all,

I recently started making watch straps as a hobby. I’m collecting allot of info and trying out different things.

I wanted to start a topic where i can share my work and findings in the hope it can be of value to someone else. 
I intend to randomly post my progress and experiences on construction and finishing.

Below are my 2 latest straps

1
20 to 16mm taper
Outer: buttero biscuit 0.9mm
Lining: alran sully gold 0.9mm
Inner layer: generic veg tan 0.8mm
Thread: meisi superfine linenM40 caramel
Stitching: CH 2.7mm
Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed
 

 

2
20 to 16mm taper
Outer: buttero whiskey 0.9mm
Lining: zermatt 0.9mm
Inner layer: salpa 0.4mm
Reinforcement: velodon 0.1mm 
Thread: meisi superfine linen M40 cream
Stitching: CH 2.7mm
Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed

 

3d printed folding jig i’m using:

 

please leave me any comments, questions or critiques…

more to follow

i think your work looks pretty sharp.  Professional.  How long did it take you to make the set?  Is that hand stitching?

I'm not familiar with your leathers, are those leathers produced in Japan or imports from Italy/etc?

 

Edited 21 hours ago by Cumberland Highpower

[Beehive]

I wish you guys would stop using the easy release spring bars. I have to cut that peg to get the spring bar out. 

I have four Marathon watches. Three jumbo, the GSAR, and the small GSAR. The JSAR is a red maple leaf. 

Anyway, that quick release is a no go on drilled lugs. Too much worry those Seiko style bars will pop out the lugs. Losing my thousand dollar watch. 

Wouldn't work on the Damasko DC58 either. 

 

I love your craftsmanship. I hate the spring bars.

Edited 21 hours ago by Beehive

[dirk87]

Thank you for your comment,

Yes hand stitched, it took me about a day and a half for each. Most of the time spend on the edge finish.

Leathers are imports from Italy (buttero) and france(alran sully, zermatt). In japan i’m buying from alleather.com for convenience 

[dirk87]

4 minutes ago, Beehive said:

I wish you guys would stop using the easy release spring bars. I have to cut that peg to get the spring bar out. 

I have four Marathon watches. Three jumbo, the GSAR, and the small GSAR. The JSAR is a red maple leaf. 

Anyway, that quick release is a no go on drilled lugs. Too much worry those Seiko style bars will pop out the lugs. Losing my thousand dollar watch. 

Wouldn't work on the Damasko DC58 either. 

 

I love your craftsmanship. I hate the spring bars.

Thanks for your comment.

I understand your opinion about the quick release, however i like them for my own watches for swapping straps and i never had issues on normal drilled lugs, regular use on jlc, oris, tudor.

something to keep in mind not everyone likes these QR spring bars

 

[dirk87]

58 minutes ago, Beehive said:

I wish you guys would stop using the easy release spring bars. I have to cut that peg to get the spring bar out. 

I have four Marathon watches. Three jumbo, the GSAR, and the small GSAR. The JSAR is a red maple leaf. 

Anyway, that quick release is a no go on drilled lugs. Too much worry those Seiko style bars will pop out the lugs. Losing my thousand dollar watch. 

Wouldn't work on the Damasko DC58 either. 

 

I love your craftsmanship. I hate the spring bars.

I am trying to learn as much as possible about watch straps. Could you please tell me more about this.

why do you have to cut it? Do you mean the leather? I have no problems inserting/removing the QR spring bars. As far as i know the regular oblong hole allows this. 

Is spring bars failing on drilled lugs a thing? As far as i know drilled lugs are the same diameter drill just extended to the outside. Is there any difference with normal partially drilled?

Why would it not work on a damasko DC58, as far as i can see they have normal lugs?

[Beehive]

31 minutes ago, dirk87 said:

I am trying to learn as much as possible about watch straps. Could you please tell me more about this.

why do you have to cut it? Do you mean the leather? I have no problems inserting/removing the QR spring bars. As far as i know the regular oblong hole allows this. 

Is spring bars failing on drilled lugs a thing? As far as i know drilled lugs are the same diameter drill just extended to the outside. Is there any difference with normal partially drilled?

Why would it not work on a damasko DC58, as far as i can see they have normal lugs?

 

I prefer the factory spring bars. The quick release bars are a universal sized bar. Seiko sized. 

Using the Marathon watches, they have massive spring bars that are designed to fit the drilled lugs on their cases. 

For me to use your quick release strap. I have to remove the spring bars you installed. The peg or lever used to release the spring bar. Has to be cut off so the spring bar can be removed out the strap. Cutting the lever also leaves a sharp edge of metal. That drags through the strap while being removed. 

It's either that or the stitching has to be removed and sewn back. 

 

On the Damasko, the spring bars are curved. Another element that needs addressed. 

[Beehive]

As a strap maker using those quick release bars. 

 

What guarantee do you give me, that it will hold my $5000 dollar watch on my wrist, worry free? 

[dirk87]

1 hour ago, Beehive said:

 

I prefer the factory spring bars. The quick release bars are a universal sized bar. Seiko sized. 

Using the Marathon watches, they have massive spring bars that are designed to fit the drilled lugs on their cases. 

For me to use your quick release strap. I have to remove the spring bars you installed. The peg or lever used to release the spring bar. Has to be cut off so the spring bar can be removed out the strap. Cutting the lever also leaves a sharp edge of metal. That drags through the strap while being removed. 

It's either that or the stitching has to be removed and sewn back. 

 

On the Damasko, the spring bars are curved. Another element that needs addressed. 

What does seiko size refer to? both quick release and normal spring bars come in d= 1.5 or 1.8mm and 8-25mm length in 1mm increments.

Marathon just supplies regular spring bars, looks like 1.8mm
https://www.marathonwatch.com/products/shoulderless-spring-bars?srsltid=AfmBOoqUY5KNh_Ra4gNHDbdwtlgY88xI7pJuJ4FuizA-cdtL_XkHKsAN
Drilled vs non drilled just refers to the shoulder.
Please correct me if I misunderstand.

I don't get why anything has to be cut, if the strap cutout is properly sized there is no problem installing/removing.

I get your comment on curved spring bars, experimenting on this, will post some images when I make some progress on this.

Just to make it clear, I am not making straps commercially, just trying to learn and evolve my craft.
 

Edited 19 hours ago by dirk87

[dirk87]

57 minutes ago, Beehive said:

As a strap maker using those quick release bars. 

 

What guarantee do you give me, that it will hold my $5000 dollar watch on my wrist, worry free? 

Thats a real concern i worried about!
But I’m pretty sure a patek comes with normal spring bars i don't see any difference in function and reliability between normal vs quick release bars.

[dirk87]

Just sharing the buildup of my latest strap.

from top to bottom:
Buttero leather
Velodon (folded over)
Salamander salpa
Zermatt leather

And a quick stitching test.
2.7mm pricking irons opened with 1.8mm flat awl.

M40 is meisi linen M40
0.4 is Hua linen 0.4mm
0.4P is Hua poly 0.4mm
O.3 is Hia line 0.3mm

[Beehive]

54 minutes ago, dirk87 said:

Thats a real concern i worried about!
But I’m pretty sure a patek comes with normal spring bars i don't see any difference in function and reliability between normal vs quick release bars.

 

Yeah, watch straps are no joke. If you plan on selling them. It needs to survive being on the wrist. 24 hours a day, 7 days a week for 1 year. Then it'll be worn to the point it'll need to be replaced. Replaced for the security of the watch. 

You do excellent work.

[Cumberland Highpower]

5 hours ago, Beehive said:

As a strap maker using those quick release bars. 

 

What guarantee do you give me, that it will hold my $5000 dollar watch on my wrist, worry free? 

I've been tooling up myself to make leather watch straps.  Only by machine.  I guess I'll just include "Not for $5000 watches" stamped under size and maker stamping. LOL

[LeatherLegion]

Excellent work. A smaller flat awl for the lighter thread would be the only advise. Looks great regardless

[Scoutmom103]

20 hours ago, dirk87 said:

Hello all,

I recently started making watch straps as a hobby. I’m collecting allot of info and trying out different things.

I wanted to start a topic where i can share my work and findings in the hope it can be of value to someone else. 
I intend to randomly post my progress and experiences on construction and finishing.

Below are my 2 latest straps

1
20 to 16mm taper
Outer: buttero biscuit 0.9mm
Lining: alran sully gold 0.9mm
Inner layer: generic veg tan 0.8mm
Thread: meisi superfine linenM40 caramel
Stitching: CH 2.7mm
Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed
 

 

2
20 to 16mm taper
Outer: buttero whiskey 0.9mm
Lining: zermatt 0.9mm
Inner layer: salpa 0.4mm
Reinforcement: velodon 0.1mm 
Thread: meisi superfine linen M40 cream
Stitching: CH 2.7mm
Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed

 

3d printed folding jig i’m using:

 

please leave me any comments, questions or critiques…

more to follow

you're watch straps are beautiful.  Did you design the 3d printed folding jig?