toxo Posted March 4 Report Posted March 4 On 2/26/2025 at 7:23 PM, Prusty said: This is my second large-ish project after about a year’s absence. I had the idea for this back in 2022 but never felt I had the design quite right. Turns out it only took 3 years of rumination to figure it out! It’s made from 2.5mm lamport shoulder, split down for the gusset and for the binding. I considered a darker or lighter leather for the French binding, but ultimately never felt it looked correct. Any questions or critique is welcome! Some class work right there. Has me puzzled though. Can't work out what you've got under the flap rim to give that precise bump and the line where the top of the bump meets the flap is very neat but too far for the stitch line to hold it so what is holding it, glue? However you've done it, it's a great job. Is there a reason for the flare out on the gussets? Can we see the inside? Bin the strap. Detracts from the rest. Since you said you made it to sell I'm surprised you've put so much time into it because if Leeds is anything like Kent you're never gonna get back half of what that bag's worth. Maybe you've got a good outlet. I hope so. Again, excellent job, well done. Quote
Members Deanr Posted March 4 Members Report Posted March 4 Very good work. On the flap, on the final stitching, do you punch from the outside? If yes, how do you keep the the binding so tight? Quote
Members DanC Posted March 8 Members Report Posted March 8 If you'd be so kind as to send it to me - I'd give it a very good inspection and let you know what I think of your work. 😁 If not, then a very good job indeed!! Quote
Members Prusty Posted March 22 Author Members Report Posted March 22 On 3/4/2025 at 5:57 AM, toxo said: Some class work right there. Has me puzzled though. Can't work out what you've got under the flap rim to give that precise bump and the line where the top of the bump meets the flap is very neat but too far for the stitch line to hold it so what is holding it, glue? However you've done it, it's a great job. Is there a reason for the flare out on the gussets? Can we see the inside? Bin the strap. Detracts from the rest. Since you said you made it to sell I'm surprised you've put so much time into it because if Leeds is anything like Kent you're never gonna get back half of what that bag's worth. Maybe you've got a good outlet. I hope so. Again, excellent job, well done. I’m not sure what you mean by the bump? Do you mean where the binding goes back over itself? The flared gusset is partly a measuring error, but a number of people I consulted quite liked it and how it gives more room to get in when it’s open. It also stops the straps rubbing the lid so much, so I guess it has its uses. On 3/4/2025 at 9:00 PM, Deanr said: Very good work. On the flap, on the final stitching, do you punch from the outside? If yes, how do you keep the the binding so tight? The holes are all pre-punched and lined up before I glue and stitch the lining, after which I fold it around and glue it again before the second stitch line. I’d prefer to just prick, but to get it all to line up for the flap/body connection it’s easier and more reliable to pre-punch with the iron. Quote
toxo Posted March 22 Report Posted March 22 1 hour ago, Prusty said: I’m not sure what you mean by the bump? Do you mean where the binding goes back over itself? Halfway between the edge and the stitching, where the bump stops is a line but no stitches. The actual stitch line is quite far away and if it's just glue holding it down I would worry about it lifting over time. Quote
Members Prusty Posted March 22 Author Members Report Posted March 22 3 hours ago, toxo said: Halfway between the edge and the stitching, where the bump stops is a line but no stitches. The actual stitch line is quite far away and if it's just glue holding it down I would worry about it lifting over time. I’m still confused what you mean by bump? I’m confused as to what bump you mean and what you’re trying to refer to as glued down in that image. Just so I know we’re on the same page this is a French edge binding. The binding is first stitched grain to grain, then turned over itself and the edge of the leather, hiding that first line of stitching. It’s then secured down with the second line of stitching. So it’s two lines of stitching, but one is hidden. Quote
toxo Posted March 22 Report Posted March 22 1 hour ago, Prusty said: I’m still confused what you mean by bump? I’m confused as to what bump you mean and what you’re trying to refer to as glued down in that image. Just so I know we’re on the same page this is a French edge binding. The binding is first stitched grain to grain, then turned over itself and the edge of the leather, hiding that first line of stitching. It’s then secured down with the second line of stitching. So it’s two lines of stitching, but one is hidden. Makes sense now. Thought it was too good to be just a crease. Quote
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