Sharpen 3/5 in 1 round end cutter blade.

[Kfd518]

I wish I had thought to take pictures of what I started with. I recently took possession of and old American 3in1 the round cutter blade wash sharp except two knicks that needed to be removed. To begin this I removed the top feed wheel using a punch and dead blow hammer.
Not having a lathe or any way to spin it true other than on the machine itself I used a coarse file held against the frame with my left hand and the handle of the file braced by the bench. I maintained the original edge bevel. I used a progressively finer files as the knicks were close to being removed. I worked the wire edge off going back and forth holding the file flat against the outside face and the edge I had just made I know the outer face remained square because the black on the face was un-damaged. I then worked a few progressively finer stones and finally stropped both sides. 
I now have a functional 3in1 with no heat damage to the wheel and a true and keen edge. I do however still need to do some work to the skiving blade. I despise using grinders on sharpen edged tools unless I am forced to so I was happy I did not have to resort to that. 
 

I had nothing to loose on this blade due to the damage that was already there. If you take your time and clean to file and the cutter and end of the bottom frame of shavings regularly it is easy to see light to guide where to hold your files and stones. 

 

[bruce johnson]

You already figured out the trick for doing the round blade in place. The touch up will be easy now with an ultra fine stone or diamond stick as needed. Depending on the machine you can use a tapered diamond round file and not remove the feed wheel if there is enough space. Just have somebody crank while you hold and eyeball the file and edge. 

The skiver blades are way easier. Most have a double bevel although a very few are single bevel. Jigs or angle guides designed for wide chisels on stones, paper, or machines will work for them. 

[Tastech]

The skiving blade is easy . I do it this way .

Using double sided tape on one side of the blade , Stick it to a bench with the sharp side over hanging the bench by about 1/4" . Your can use various grades of diamond sharpening plates or stones . when one side is done flip the blade and repeat .

Surprisingly , the blade stays sharp for a very long time . As a shoemaker and cobbler i use mine about 20 to 50 times a day . Its been over a year since i last sharpened. 

Interesting fun fact . The skiving blade is the same width as a Stanley NO 4  hand plane blade . 

You can still get a new blade for the cutter from landis . Over time they lose their diameter and wont cut all the way through . The round blade on my machine is about 30 years old and is due for replacement soon.

[Tigweldor]

You could also just run a proper sized bolt through the blade´s mounting hole, secure the blade with a nut and then insert the bolt into the chuck of a (cordless)drill.

If you then secure the drill in a vice or clamp it to your workbench with a clamp -- you have an improvised "lathe" that makes short time of intended sharpening.

In Germany we have a saying : " in an emergency, the devil will eat flies" 

Edited April 6 by Tigweldor
spelling

[Tigweldor]

Most blades are affixed to their drive shaft with a nut that has 2 holes in its`side.

You can make an improvised tool for loosening/tightening such a nut from a proper sized washer a 2 small nuts and bolts, then welding the washer onto a handle.

Sure beats working on the nut with a punch and a hammer.

If the nut is at the very end of the shaft of your cutter - a piece of flat bar with two bolts and nuts at proper spacing will suffice.

 

Here is a pic of that same principle - it is a tool to keep the dive shaft yoke of a rear differential from turning when removed from the car/truck, but you have to tighten the yoke nut to specs - due to a crush sleeve - with a torque wrench.

 

Edited April 6 by Tigweldor

[Kfd518]

  On 4/6/2025 at 12:57 PM, Tigweldor said:

Most blades are affixed to their drive shaft with a nut that has 2 holes in its`side.

You can make an improvised tool for loosening/tightening such a nut from a proper sized washer a 2 small nuts and bolts, then welding the washer onto a handle.

Sure beats working on the nut with a punch and a hammer.

If the nut is at the very end of the shaft of your cutter - a piece of flat bar with two bolts and nuts at proper spacing will suffice.

 

Here is a pic of that same principle - it is a tool to keep the dive shaft yoke of a rear differential from turning when removed from the car/truck, but you have to tighten the yoke nut to specs - due to a crush sleeve - with a torque wrench.

 

Expand  

These have one hole on the backside of the blade and feed wheel. A proper spanner could be made but I’m betting the pin would be to small to break an old rusted one off without breaking itself. This method worked and didn’t take much time at all. 
 

 

  On 4/6/2025 at 4:45 AM, bruce johnson said:

You already figured out the trick for doing the round blade in place. The touch up will be easy now with an ultra fine stone or diamond stick as needed. Depending on the machine you can use a tapered diamond round file and not remove the feed wheel if there is enough space. Just have somebody crank while you hold and eyeball the file and edge. 

The skiver blades are way easier. Most have a double bevel although a very few are single bevel. Jigs or angle guides designed for wide chisels on stones, paper, or machines will work for them. 

Expand  

I was working on it right after I posted the original message. I worked one side till it raised a burr and then worked the other the same way, then progressed up the grits to 5k and stropped. 
I use my old razor stones for my leather tools since I bought all new stones for my straights.