My Sewing Station

[Piko]

I just wanted to share the fruit of my hard work. It may not look good but I am working from a one bedroom with battery tools etc. 

I did not want to get the table mounted machine because i was planning on using it on my bench but, after mounting all the pieces together I realized I could not safely lift the setup from the ground to my bench top repetitively. I can lift it, but I gotta be very careful not to hurt my back in the prices and it is a very awkward shape/balance/height.

So I did decide to get a table in the end and git one with a shelf so my Nippy Mini Skiver is also housed on this table. I use the vertical set up to store more things since, as I said, I love in a one bedroom.
 

Anyhow. I moved the motor and added a speed reducer. I added a handle for moving it more easily. I relocated the controller box closer to the machine to accomodate a bobbin winder since I lost mine by adding the speed reducer. I added an eyelet thinghy to reroute the thread to the bobbin winder and, this thing is amazing. It winds bobbins in like 5 seconds and it stops when they are full. 
I had to cut the legs of the table because after adding the coaster wheels it was too high. 
 

Overall I am very happy with the whole set up and I can move it into the closet when I don't need it. The added speed reducer has made this machine so slow I can control it with ease and I think it has more punch now. It goes through veg tan like it iisnt even there.

I am still learning how to back stitch into the same holes since I cannot see them and also learning to stitch better but that’s the beauty of the journey. Here are some photos of the set up and of a manly clutch I made myself today. 

Thank you all for all your tips and suggestions. Your knowledge is truly appreciated. 
 

 

[AlZilla]

Wow, that's some hard work that really paid off. I agree, wrestling that bad boy up and down off the floor would be a bear.

Is any weight resting on that wooden triangle block under the cylinder arm? I remember you shortened that table up (I think that was your project).

The manly clutch turned out quite well. I like the alternating color of the layers around the gusset. Burnishing them to a slick finish might give an interesting effect.

[Piko]

Hi Alzilla,

I did not end up cutting the table shorter: I got lazy and decided to use the extra room to mount the bobbin winder. The wooden triangle under the machine is just there because that is where I keep it: not functional for the machine balance or anything. The wooden triangle is to glue the lining to the shell of wallets and clutches at an angle to reduce the bunching of the liner.

I have not burnished the clutch on purpose as it is one of my last tests before I start selling them on my site. I meed to fiddle with the foot pressure to avoid marks, and figure out how to back stitch. I am having 2 issues (I might as well ask since someone here may know the solution):

1) Bunching of liner. The liner is .9 mm and that is the thinnest ai can get. There is a place in Italy that can do 0.6mm - 0.7 mm but I don't have any at the moment so. I want to avoid bunching of the liner where the clutch’s flap folds. I read that stitching the sides helps but it does not seem true and, I would rather avoid stitching the flap for a cosmetic reason. I am using a water based contact cement called 1618b I think. I tested it against Barge Contact Cement and it holds pretty closely to it considering that it is water based. As for longevity of the bond I cannot attest to. My point is that the adhesive should not be the issue. Anyone knows how this can be fixed?

2) Back Stitching. I can’t seem to do it right. I wait until the needle is coming back up from the leather and I stop, press down the reverse lever, and then continue. I often miss the previous holes but i understand that is just lack of skills. However, when I do get the holes, the thread either gets bunched up on the bottom stitch side or it misses to make the knot. Anyone can suggest a solution for this? Thank you. 

[Piko]

Hi, 

I m having troubles with 2 things.

1) Bunching of liner. The liner is .9 mm and that is the thinnest ai can get. There is a place in Italy that can do 0.6mm - 0.7 mm but I don't have any at the moment so. I want to avoid bunching of the liner where the clutch’s flap folds. I read that stitching the sides helps but it does not seem true and, I would rather avoid stitching the flap for a cosmetic reason. I am using a water based contact cement called 1618b I think. I tested it against Barge Contact Cement and it holds pretty closely to it considering that it is water based. As for longevity of the bond I cannot attest to. My point is that the adhesive should not be the issue. Anyone knows how this can be fixed?

2) Back Stitching. I can’t seem to do it right. I wait until the needle is coming back up from the leather (Artisan 246) and I stop, press down the reverse lever, and then continue.

I often miss the previous holes but I understand that is just lack of skills. However, when I do get the holes, the thread either gets bunched up on the bottom stitch side or it fails to make the knot. Anyone can suggest a solution for this?

Thank you in advance.

[Northmount]

7 minutes ago, Piko said:

Bunching of liner

Glue the liner in place while folded to near the closed position.  Then there is not so much to bunch up, the flap wants to close on its own, and when opening all the way, the liner has to stretch some.  Results in a permanent curve in the flap.

If you use really thin leather for the liner, the life of the purse will be reduced due to accidents and abrasion putting things in and taking them out.  I used to use what was called skiver leather that is paper thin.  It's okay for wallet liners when you have a hidden pocket for bills.  Never used it on purses.

9 minutes ago, Piko said:

Back Stitching

Cut the tails several inches long and back stitch using saddle stitch method manually.  If you use leather point needles, they shear the thread when back stitching.  So nicer, cleaner job finishing the ends off manually.

[BlackDragon]

When adding a liner to an area that is going to bend you should glue it while it's in a bent state. This will lessen the wrinkling in the liner.

When I back stitch, after putting the machine in reverse I hand crank to make sure I get the needle in the correct hole. You only have to back stitch 3 or 4 holes.

[Piko]

56 minutes ago, Northmount said:

Glue the liner in place while folded to near the closed position.  Then there is not so much to bunch up, the flap wants to close on its own, and when opening all the way, the liner has to stretch some.  Results in a permanent curve in the flap.

If you use really thin leather for the liner, the life of the purse will be reduced due to accidents and abrasion putting things in and taking them out.  I used to use what was called skiver leather that is paper thin.  It's okay for wallet liners when you have a hidden pocket for bills.  Never used it on purses.

Cut the tails several inches long and back stitch using saddle stitch method manually.  If you use leather point needles, they shear the thread when back stitching.  So nicer, cleaner job finishing the ends off manually.

I do glue with the leather bent into shape. I still get bunching. Ironically, I even got deformation of the other shell leather when i straighten the flap open (after the glue has set). I wonder if edge paint would help covering the bunching at the edges of the flap. I normally don’t use use it but I have some Vernis at hand and tried it and it looks really good. Although I dont know if it would help my problem or make it worse. 
 

the handstitching the ends is clever: I did not think of that. So, I would just start seeing with the machine and just go forward (leaving long tails at start and end of the line) and then do the backstitching saddle stitching? Sounds great. I’ll try it thanks. 
 

Would you have any tips on getting the first and last stitch with the machine at the same distance from the edge of the leather (the top edge, not the sides, for that i use - guide). 
getting the first stitch where I want it is easier but the last one it really depends on coincidence based on how many stitches and how far apart. Is there a trick to get the last stitch exactly where you want it? 
thank you. 

[Northmount]

14 minutes ago, Piko said:

Would you have any tips on getting the first and last stitch with the machine at the same distance from the edge of the leather (the top edge, not the sides, for that i use - guide). 
getting the first stitch where I want it is easier but the last one it really depends on coincidence based on how many stitches and how far apart. Is there a trick to get the last stitch exactly where you want it? 
thank you. 

Mark where you want the beginning and end stitches to be.  Plus a couple more holes for the end.  At the end start adjusting the stitches to to match the marks, a little closer to each mark as you approach the end.  Not one big correction.  You can use the reverse lever on many machines to shorten the stitch length a little to gradually line up with your marks.

[Northmount]

20 minutes ago, Piko said:

I do glue with the leather bent into shape. I still get bunching. Ironically, I even got deformation of the other shell leather when i straighten the flap open (after the glue has set). I wonder if edge paint would help covering the bunching at the edges of the flap. I normally don’t use use it but I have some Vernis at hand and tried it and it looks really good. Although I dont know if it would help my problem or make it worse.

Edge paint doesn't add any strength to the edge.  Use thicker firmer leather for the outside, and thinner leather on the inside.  Then the outside won't have a wrinkling when opening towards flat.  If you can use a leather that is more stretchy for the inside, that will help absorb the wrinkles and stretches.

I also think that stitching the edges of the flap make it look more finished than not.  Helps blend in with stitching on the gussets.  Personally, I don't like to see stitched edges transition to none.  Doesn't look finished, looks like a short cut to get finished faster with less work.

[Piko]

1 hour ago, Northmount said:

Edge paint doesn't add any strength to the edge.  Use thicker firmer leather for the outside, and thinner leather on the inside.  Then the outside won't have a wrinkling when opening towards flat.  If you can use a leather that is more stretchy for the inside, that will help absorb the wrinkles and stretches.

I also think that stitching the edges of the flap make it look more finished than not.  Helps blend in with stitching on the gussets.  Personally, I don't like to see stitched edges transition to none.  Doesn't look finished, looks like a short cut to get finished faster with less work.

I get what you are saying about marking the last few stitches and adjust a little but at a time until the last stitch. Good idea. I’ll try it later. My reverse bar only reverses the direction it does not shorten the stitch (my Sailrite works as you described but not my Artisan) but I can try to line them up manually.

i see your point with the stitching on the flap. I am debating. If I did the stitches like 2mm closer to the edge of the leather and get the stitches closer together, I think that would look good on the flap.  Unfortunately my rolling guide cannot get closer to the foot without hitting it so i don't think i can stitch closer to the edge but I’ll look for a solution. 
In my mind, without stitches looks more refined but, I get what you are saying about the ‘incomplete’ feel when there are stitches on the gusset and not on the flap. I think getting the stitches a little closer together and closer to the edge may look good. 
 

thank for your help, much appreciated. 

[Northmount]

1 hour ago, Piko said:

i see your point with the stitching on the flap. I am debating. If I did the stitches like 2mm closer to the edge of the leather and get the stitches closer together, I think that would look good on the flap.  Unfortunately my rolling guide cannot get closer to the foot without hitting it so i don't think i can stitch closer to the edge but I’ll look for a solution. 
In my mind, without stitches looks more refined but, I get what you are saying about the ‘incomplete’ feel when there are stitches on the gusset and not on the flap. I think getting the stitches a little closer together and closer to the edge may look good. 

If you get too close to the edge, sometimes the needle slips through the edge.  I'd have to practice a lot to avoid that.  Another option is to lace the edges with a double loop pattern.  It hides the edges really nicely, and I don't have to slick the edges.  Even though I have a machine capable of sewing leather now versus years ago, some of my work is still laced, especially when customers see how it looks.  You can do even fancier lacing than the double loop.  It does take a lot longer to build.  And it fits with doing tooling.

[dikman]

Very neat job on the tabletop.  The wooden triangle looks well-made, did you make it?

[Tigweldor]

You will have to play with your thread tension though.

On pic#5 the white thread (bobbin) has pulled the brown thread right through the leather. The hole in the arm plate left ugly dimples - comes either from using a fabric needle (for a straight stitch) or to big of a hole in your bottom plate.

On the last pic bottom stitching - the slots left by the needle seem to large for the tiny thread coming out of the hole - more of an optical thing than structural - but picky customers could be turned off by that.

 

Please only take this as a hint and not as major faults

 

Greetings

Hans

Edited April 23 by Tigweldor

[Piko]

6 hours ago, Northmount said:

If you get too close to the edge, sometimes the needle slips through the edge.  I'd have to practice a lot to avoid that.  Another option is to lace the edges with a double loop pattern.  It hides the edges really nicely, and I don't have to slick the edges.  Even though I have a machine capable of sewing leather now versus years ago, some of my work is still laced, especially when customers see how it looks.  You can do even fancier lacing than the double loop.  It does take a lot longer to build.  And it fits with doing tooling.

I had to google it because I did not know what you were referring to with the lacing thing. It looks nice. I am trying to move away from doing things by hand too much, that is why I am trying to implement my machine to sew.

I 'll keep an eye out on the slipping needle at the edge of the leather.

Thank you for the tips.

[Piko]

4 hours ago, dikman said:

Very neat job on the tabletop.  The wooden triangle looks well-made, did you make it?

Thank you! The wooden triangle is very well made, I wish I could take credit for it but I bought it from Etsy. I actually used it for the first time yesterday after having purchased it more than a year ago: i never lined objects that fold before.

Here is the link to the triangle: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1504253838/leathercraft-triangular-prism-jig-mold?gpla=1&gao=1&&gQT=0

[Piko]

1 hour ago, Tigweldor said:

You will have to play with your thread tension though.

On pic#5 the white thread (bobbin) has pulled the brown thread right through the leather. The hole in the arm plate left ugly dimples - comes either from using a fabric needle (for a straight stitch) or to big of a hole in your bottom plate.

On the last pic bottom stitching - the slots left by the needle seem to large for the tiny thread coming out of the hole - more of an optical thing than structural - but picky customers could be turned off by that.

 

Please only take this as a hint and not as major faults

 

Greetings

Hans

Hi Hans, and thank you for making those points. 

I am new to stitching with sewing machines so I am still learning. so, I had just switched from a v138 to a v92 so the tension must have been off. Also, going from sewing through 4 layers of leather (2 plus 2 of liner) and then moving straight to sewing through jus t2 layers (1 plus liner) might have affected the tension as well. I might have to change the tension as I go from the thicker leather stack to the thinner one. Again, sill learning. If you have tips I am all ears.

The ugly hole mark I have no idea why it happens. It happens with my Sailrite as well and people have said it is normal maybe because they dont know how to fix it but I am not sure. I am definitely using a leather needle. The one that pocked these holes was a Groz Beckert 135x16 TRI #18 which I think is a chisel with triangular shape.  I suspect it may be the pressure on the walking foot to be honest: I will experiment with it once I get the new needles.

As for the large holes I totally agree and I am trying to fix that. These were pocked with an  #18 needle and a v92 (approximately) thread. I am waiting for #16 needles even though they are not recommended  for that size thread, I am doing in an attempt to reduce the size of the hole left by the needle. Of course it could also be the tension hat stretches the thread too much. I am not sure. Again, any tips, I am all ears.

Thank you for your time. Much appreciated.

[RockyAussie]

6 hours ago, Piko said:

As for the large holes I totally agree and I am trying to fix that. These were pocked with an  #18 needle and a v92 (approximately) thread. I am waiting for #16 needles even though they are not recommended  for that size thread, I am doing in an attempt to reduce the size of the hole left by the needle. Of course it could also be the tension hat stretches the thread too much. I am not sure. Again, any tips, I am all ears.

A 16 needle would be too small for a V92 thread. Try an LR needle instead of the Tri needle which is more suited for heavy weight leathers. Your lid is a little light in the leather weight and could be the reason your tension is not working well. All the same it looks to me you have sewn the back and lid to the gusset first and made the mistake of not stitching the lid the right way up. The lid is the most important to look good so the thread needle should be going into it from the top. To over cum your wrinkling problem in the lid lining do not glue fully the lining except for the edge. Where the bend is and about an inch beyond don't glue. Putting an internal stiffener at the front of the lid up to just short of the fold will help as well. This video of mine shows the method I use for stitching most bags I make and note that the lid is not glued anywhere near the folding area - 

 

[Piko]

7 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

A 16 needle would be too small for a V92 thread. Try an LR needle instead of the Tri needle which is more suited for heavy weight leathers. Your lid is a little light in the leather weight and could be the reason your tension is not working well. All the same it looks to me you have sewn the back and lid to the gusset first and made the mistake of not stitching the lid the right way up. The lid is the most important to look good so the thread needle should be going into it from the top. To over cum your wrinkling problem in the lid lining do not glue fully the lining except for the edge. Where the bend is and about an inch beyond don't glue. Putting an internal stiffener at the front of the lid up to just short of the fold will help as well. This video of mine shows the method I use for stitching most bags I make and note that the lid is not glued anywhere near the folding area - 

 

Hey, thanks for the tips. Those are some good looking bags you make there. I also learned you can lift the foot and keep the needle down to do the back stitching: I never knew that! Again, I hand stitch mostly but these old bones od mine are clueing me to switch to machine so I am learning as I go.

I don’t really know where to get needles. I mostly buy from Amazon and Sailrite but I dont see options often like LR or DI etc, most of the time if I find an #18 for example it will only be one kind, so either TRI or DI etc. never seen multiple options. Do you recommend a place to buy needles? I also need other feet etc but again, still learning as I go. 
The trick I saw you using in the video for the backstitching is really helpful. 
I ll try not glueing the fold, but I get the bunching even at the edges. Also, I saw not planning on stitching the sides of the lid, I wonder if nit glueing the fold except for the edges would still work if I dont stitch the edges.

Yes, I ran one stitch line around the whole bag but was supposed to have the top stitch on the other side of the lid. I am still prototyping at this point. 
 

I was using an #18 needle with a 138 thread which is also not recommended but I like it better. So i hope that the not recommended  #16 with the v92 will work the same but there is only one way to find out. 
 

if I can find a website with different needle options I’ll buy the LR.

thank you for your time and tips. Much appreciated. 

[RockyAussie]

15 hours ago, Piko said:

if I can find a website with different needle options I’ll buy the LR.

In the banner at the top of this post is a good place to start if your in the US. https://leathermachineco.com/

 

[Piko]

7 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

In the banner at the top of this post is a good place to start if your in the US. https://leathermachineco.com/

 

Thanks! 

[Tigweldor]

Just make sure you get needles from a reputable manufacturer.

The best ones are : Schmetz, Organ and Groz-Beckert - the rest is pretty well no-name brand - don´t waste your money on junk.

Greetings

Hans

[Piko]

6 hours ago, Tigweldor said:

Just make sure you get needles from a reputable manufacturer.

The best ones are : Schmetz, Organ and Groz-Beckert - the rest is pretty well no-name brand - don´t waste your money on junk.

Greetings

Hans

So far I only bought those. I guess I'll stick to those. Thanks for the head's up.