Randall leather sewing machine needs a shuttle

[Wizcrafts]

2 hours ago, mbnaegle said:

All good notes. Needles and Awls are still available for the Campbell/Randall lockstitch and Union lockstitch machines in the more popular sizes. There are a couple less popular sizes that we haven't replenished stock yet since needle manufacturers often have minimum orders of 10,000+ pieces, so we have to budget when we're going to stock-up for the next 100 years. In those cases, if someone needs something there's always a half size over or under in stock that can do the job.

MB, when the ULS was main primary stitcher, I bought every size needle and awl available. First, I got them from New York. Later, from CR. If memory serves half right, I had needles from .5 through 6 or 7 and awls from 1 through 7 or 8. My most used combos were a #2.5 needle and a #3 or 4 awl. Some of the awls had slanted leather points. These made tighter holes for edge stitching. I was able to sew with thread sizes 69 through 554.

You're right about the reason for the tool tray. I kept the round wrenches in it, as well as packs of needles and awls.

Did you ever do business with Freedman (or Freidman) Harness in Toronto? That's where I learned about Campbell and Randall machines and how to operate them. They helped my with setting up my first ULS machine (from 1968). I brought that machine with me when I moved back to Michigan. I wish I had kept it. The then wife said why don't you sell that big ugly thing that's taking up space in "my" dining room. She's long gone, but so is that machine!

[Cumberland Highpower]

On 6/30/2025 at 10:30 AM, mbnaegle said:

These machines also don't like Nylon. Polyester or natural fiber threads are best as you want something that lays flat and doesn't retain a coil or stretch. 

I've heard that for 25 years but I think it's mostly a myth?  I've run hundreds of lbs of Nylon and Poly and everything is always 100%

 

 

 

 

Edited July 2 by Cumberland Highpower

[Cumberland Highpower]

On 6/30/2025 at 10:30 AM, mbnaegle said:

 

We don't have complete records for the Randall Lockstitch machines, but can tell you that they were made new between around 1910 and the 1940's or 1950's.

I have "one" piece of possibly solid evidence you might be able to use as a Rosetta Stone of sorts?.  Solid being open to how you read into it...LOL     I have a Randall with a serial just barely over 200 and someone scratched their initials and date into the machined surface front of the machine above the awl.  Dec 23, 1913.   I had the machine for 15 years before I noticed it under the patina. I'm guessing it's either an inspector at Randall?? or the original owner of the machine making his mark when he received it.

Edited July 2 by Cumberland Highpower

[mbnaegle]

1 hour ago, Cumberland Highpower said:

I have "one" piece of possibly solid evidence you might be able to use as a Rosetta Stone of sorts?.  Solid being open to how you read into it...LOL     I have a Randall with a serial just barely over 200 and someone scratched their initials and date into the machined surface front of the machine above the awl.  Dec 23, 1913.   I had the machine for 15 years before I noticed it under the patina. I'm guessing it's either an inspector at Randall?? or the original owner of the machine making his mark when he received it.

That's pretty cool! I'd agree I think it was an owner maybe marking when he got it. It's kinda neat to see all the history worn into old machines

 

With the Nylon thread, I've known some guys that can get it to work on Campbells and Unions and hat's off to them, but it's uncommon. I think the quality and age/condition of the thread has a lot to do with users success, but whatever you use If it works it works.

[Wizcrafts]

2 hours ago, mbnaegle said:

That's pretty cool! I'd agree I think it was an owner maybe marking when he got it. It's kinda neat to see all the history worn into old machines

 

With the Nylon thread, I've known some guys that can get it to work on Campbells and Unions and hat's off to them, but it's uncommon. I think the quality and age/condition of the thread has a lot to do with users success, but whatever you use If it works it works.

I got my first ULS in 1986 or 87. I bought it off Tandy Leather. It was sitting in the middle of their parts warehouse, unused for years. There was nothing with it except the needle and awl in the head. No accessories or thread. Once I got a manual and learned how to thread it correctly, I used the large sizes of thread I already had from a Singer 132k6, which was my previous heavy duty machine. All my thread was bonded nylon. So, I used nylon thread in various sizes. I adjusted the pull up positioner, the looper, etc, until I got perfect stitches. I did this for most of the time I owned that machine. I tried running Barbour's Irish Linen thread, but it kept hanging in the barbed needle, or on the looper. I just couldn't figure out how to run linen thread through liquid wax without it sticking to the needle or looper. Arrg! So, I kept going back to bonded nylon. If I get another ULS, I will buy bonded polyester thread just to keep it happy! ;-)

[Cumberland Highpower]

1 hour ago, Wizcrafts said:

I got my first ULS in 1986 or 87. I bought it off Tandy Leather. It was sitting in the middle of their parts warehouse, unused for years. There was nothing with it except the needle and awl in the head. No accessories or thread. Once I got a manual and learned how to thread it correctly, I used the large sizes of thread I already had from a Singer 132k6, which was my previous heavy duty machine. All my thread was bonded nylon. So, I used nylon thread in various sizes. I adjusted the pull up positioner, the looper, etc, until I got perfect stitches. I did this for most of the time I owned that machine. I tried running Barbour's Irish Linen thread, but it kept hanging in the barbed needle, or on the looper. I just couldn't figure out how to run linen thread through liquid wax without it sticking to the needle or looper. Arrg! So, I kept going back to bonded nylon. If I get another ULS, I will buy bonded polyester thread just to keep it happy! 😉

When I bought my first Randall it belonged to a Jockey who did repairs down in Florida.  He ran Barbours 4 cord...But not in Wax.  He ran water in his lube pot.   Apparently it worked.   Stitching looked pretty decent and there was no residue of liquid wax or whatever.   Of course that means the thread would be dry in the leather w/nothing to really protect it down the road.    I never followed his advice other than just to try it out.

On the UL's I run mostly nylon mostly in oil.  On those machines there is a bit of a difference where the lock sets from nylon to poly. (stretch) but always works out well.   What you need is 2 or 3 UL's...That way you can set one for Nylon, One for Poly and a spare for Linen if you run it sometimes! LOL

 

Edited July 3 by Cumberland Highpower