Leather Bum Posted March 29, 2007 Report Posted March 29, 2007 Has anyone else found that some leather gets thinner or compressed when it is dyed? I have tried dying some 2 oz leather (at least, I think that's how thick it is), and it seems to have become thinner where the dye was applied. Does anyone know why? LBum Quote
Moderator Johanna Posted March 29, 2007 Moderator Report Posted March 29, 2007 2oz. leather is relatively thin. Perhaps the dye is drying it too much making it seem thinner? Carved or stamped leather often seems thinner because the fibers do get compressed (a nice word for mashed!) with the tooling. What kind of conditioner are you using, and at what stage(s) in the process? Does it seem thinner when you wet it, or does it puff up when it absorbs the water? Sometimes thin leather seems to stiffen more after it's been dyed. Also, the thickness of hides will vary, some considerably,depending on what part of the animal the skin was on. If you don't like the thickness (or lack thereof) after you dye it, you might want to consider bumping up to 4oz. weight on your next order. HTH Johanna Quote
Contributing Member Regis Posted March 29, 2007 Contributing Member Report Posted March 29, 2007 I'm glad someone else noticed that. I've been making some CC holders and carving on 2-3 oz. when I dye, them, they get noticibly thinner and hard roll bad. Assembly seems to fix the roll but, they're definately thinner. Using spirit dye.......perhaps that's why??? Regis Leather Bum said: Has anyone else found that some leather gets thinner or compressed when it is dyed? I have tried dying some 2 oz leather (at least, I think that's how thick it is), and it seems to have become thinner where the dye was applied. Does anyone know why?LBum Quote
Contributing Member wolvenstien Posted March 29, 2007 Contributing Member Report Posted March 29, 2007 get some neetsfoot, and take a scrap piece, cut in two, lightly oil one piece with neetsfoot (oil again if needed but dont over oil it because the spirit oil dye will not soak into the leather well) then dye it, and just dye the other piece, and then compaire the two... let me know what results you get.... I have been trying the neetsfoot on different projects, and I like the results myself, but have not come across anything like what you are describing. Mike Quote
Members Justis Cases Posted March 30, 2007 Members Report Posted March 30, 2007 Regis said: I'm glad someone else noticed that. I've been making some CC holders and carving on 2-3 oz. when I dye, them, they get noticibly thinner and hard roll bad. Assembly seems to fix the roll but, they're definately thinner. Using spirit dye.......perhaps that's why???Regis Use the Fiebings Pro-Oil Dye and you will like it much better than the spirit dye. Or better yet the antique dye, not the antique finish, and your problem will be eleminated altogether. Quote
Leather Bum Posted March 30, 2007 Author Report Posted March 30, 2007 Ok, I should have made my post more informative :biggrin:. It's not vegetable-tanned leather. Here's the situation: I'm looking for some 2 oz. (or pretty close) colored leather with which to make leather balls. Since I want bright colors, I figured I could obtain some white leather and dye it whatever colors I want; that way, I know for sure it is all the same type and weight of leather. . . So, I bought some 2 oz. scraps of white leather (deerskin? At least, that's what I wanted to get. ) from Tandy, and it appears to have a sort of finish already on it. Dying (using Fiebing's Pro Oil Dye) after using Deglazer certainly seems to work better than using the dye straight on the leather; however, the leather becomes noticeably thinner (more compressed) and (possibly) stiffer afterwords. Oiling it might help, and I guess it might work even though it is thinner; but I kind of like how soft and nice it is before the dye. . . Here are some quick before and after pictures: Why don't I just use already-colored leather? I would rather that, but I don't know where to get it in the quantities I'd like; I do not need 80+ square feet of leather (4 times 20 sq ft per hide -- high price as well). Actually, I don't know of very many places to get brightly-colored leather anyway. . . I purchased some small pieces of colored leather from Global Leathers, but I'm pretty certain it's not all the same type, and sometimes the finish cracks. . . Does anyone know of a source for brightly colored ~2 oz leather -- all the same type, and the finish doesn't crack? Or, how about some way to color white leather (a good lasting color) without the leather getting thinner. . .? (hmm, long post, oh well) LBum Quote
Contributing Member wolvenstien Posted March 30, 2007 Contributing Member Report Posted March 30, 2007 ok, this more info stuff is helpful.... LOL Call around to any and all auto upholsters in your area, and ask if you can buy (at very low prices per pound) the scrap leather from them... you will get multi colors, and all mostly will be 2-3oz cow... some deer, some other depending on the shop.... if you have any other manufacturers in the area such as shoes, bags whatever that migth use leather.... call them to ask as well... Quote
Members whinewine Posted March 31, 2007 Members Report Posted March 31, 2007 Leather Bum said: Ok, I should have made my post more informative :biggrin:. It's not vegetable-tanned leather. Here's the situation: I'm looking for some 2 oz. (or pretty close) colored leather with which to make leather balls. Since I want bright colors, I figured I could obtain some white leather and dye it whatever colors I want; that way, I know for sure it is all the same type and weight of leather. . .So, I bought some 2 oz. scraps of white leather (deerskin? At least, that's what I wanted to get. ) from Tandy, and it appears to have a sort of finish already on it. Dying (using Fiebing's Pro Oil Dye) after using Deglazer certainly seems to work better than using the dye straight on the leather; however, the leather becomes noticeably thinner (more compressed) and (possibly) stiffer afterwords. Oiling it might help, and I guess it might work even though it is thinner; but I kind of like how soft and nice it is before the dye. . . Here are some quick before and after pictures: Why don't I just use already-colored leather? I would rather that, but I don't know where to get it in the quantities I'd like; I do not need 80+ square feet of leather (4 times 20 sq ft per hide -- high price as well). Actually, I don't know of very many places to get brightly-colored leather anyway. . . I purchased some small pieces of colored leather from Global Leathers, but I'm pretty certain it's not all the same type, and sometimes the finish cracks. . . Does anyone know of a source for brightly colored ~2 oz leather -- all the same type, and the finish doesn't crack? Or, how about some way to color white leather (a good lasting color) without the leather getting thinner. . .? (hmm, long post, oh well) LBum LBum: you might try to call Kevin at www.Springfieldleather.com or talk to the folks at www.Brettunsvillage.com. They may possibly be able to help??? Quote
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