Consistent Dying

[adamncl]

As a newbie i am still learning a lot about using leather, I went looking for some orange leather and my local supplier could not offer any help but suggested a veg tan piece and some orange leather dye. I have dyed some veg tan black with some success but at the same time tried a tan coloured dye with little success.

They suggested applying the dye to damp leather with a sponge, using long sweeping strokes, which gave me a great stripey effect!!!! With a little experimentation i have added a few more coats using a soft lint free cloth, slightly dampened to the damp leather. Using a soft circular motion i seem to have obliterated some of the stripes but needless to say the colour is now much darker than i had hoped.

Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.

I am using fieblings Leather dye which has limited colour range so any suggestions on other brands would be great along with any tips for blending colours on the leather, i had, in my innocence, thought that it would blend when being applied, however even with the leather soaked thru it just seems to soak in.

Thanks guys and apologies if this has been answered somewhere else and i have missed it.

[tazzmann]

I don't know about other peeps, but I have used the basic colors and mixed them to my liking, I then make sure the leather is clean and then air brush the dyes on. I also use Fiebings and they seem to work (and mix) just fine. I also airbrush my Super sheen on the leather for a more even coverage. Haven't had a problem so far.

[stelmackr]

For even dyes, use an air brush.

Bob Stelmack

[Peter Ellis]

Al Stohlman put together a pretty good book that goes into quite a bit of detail on how to blend dyes for leather working, and how to apply dyes and paints for the best effects on leather. Tandy carries it, it's not expensive and it's got lots of good solid information.

Coloring Leather is the title.

[Billsotx]

As a newbie i am still learning a lot about using leather, I went looking for some orange leather and my local supplier could not offer any help but suggested a veg tan piece and some orange leather dye. I have dyed some veg tan black with some success but at the same time tried a tan coloured dye with little success.

...

I am using fieblings Leather dye which has limited colour range so any suggestions on other brands would be great along with any tips for blending colours on the leather, i had, in my innocence, thought that it would blend when being applied, however even with the leather soaked thru it just seems to soak in.

Thanks guys and apologies if this has been answered somewhere else and i have missed it.

You didn't mention which Fiebing dye. There's a bunch of stuff out there and dye ain't dye and leather just ain't leather. I've had good luck cutting Fiebing Professional Oil Dye with wood alcohol. The sell a reducer to thin and dilute it and it smells like wood alcohol and the dye is alcohol based according to the label. Wood alcohol works and you'll get more for your buck than you will their reducer. Of course, there are the water based dyes and the low VOC, which I think are also water base. So not knowing what you're using as dye I'll ramble here.

Anyway, if you do this diluting of dye, measure it out don't just start pouring things; and keep notes so you can duplicate or avoid what doesn't work, and work on scraps of whatever you're building. I'm assuming you're only working with veg-tan leather. Even then, don't expect to get the same results on the next hide; it's usually close but that's not a given. I usually start with 1:1 mix. Make a small batch in case it's not what you like. You might try wiping the surface lightly with an alcohol soaked rag before you dye, or try Fiebing deglazer if you have it. Some tanners put a sealer on their leather. They'll change their process and you won't know it, so test. I've even got by with rubbing alcohol for surfacing cleaning. If I'm out of wood alcohol, I find rubbing alcohol will clean pretty well. I like 70% as 50 doesn't seem to work well. For cleaning and prep I've also had good luck with Lexol pH cleaner, and at times I've used various commercial cleaners for auto upholstery. I keep going back to Lexol as far as cleaners and haven't had good luck with saddle soap. Others swear by saddle soap. You'll have to do some experimenting and I would keep notes and when you find what works stay with it until it doesn't work, and that may happen with all this environmentally safe voodoo that's going on. I used Tandy Pro Dye forever, then they went Al Gore and the search started over and I'm hoping Fiebings doesn't drop the Pro Oil as I think I've got that figured out, except for black. In talking with the folks at W&C there is no black dye short of drum dye that won't rub-off. Black will have to be sealed. I've also blackened with vinegaroon and I still got rub-off; that has to be sealed. As Bob has already mentioned the air brush works well for an even coat, but you'll still have to experiment and you'll probably have to dilute the dye to spray it; also to get your lighter color you're after. If I'm not spraying the dye on, I use a piece of shearling or a sponge and apply in circular pattern and do as you mentioned - prime the surface before application. If I use water for a prep I spray it on, use distilled water because water is just water and you want a constant when you can get it, and then wait until the leather starts to return to it's natural color. It doesn't take a lot of water and I just use a hand held spray bottle. That's after I've cleaned the surface to remove any oil and dirt from my hands, tools, work bench and whatever may have been there when I bought it. You ever notice a spot that just won't absorb dye? I don't usually see that if I've cleaned and prepped.

For edges I've mixed dye into a finish like Fiebing Leather Sheen and come up with a lot more durable edging than Edge Kote. I've had Edge Kote peel off like a long string of caulk. Besides the book by Stohlman there's one by Peter Main you might look at. I've seen that at Tandy also. There's no simple way, dye ain't dye and leather just ain't leather and what you get used to may change. That's what makes it challenging and why everyone's not turning out top notch stuff. Keep notes and when you find the mix stay with it until that road plays out .... Click over to Fiebings and click on LeatherCraft and check out all their stuff: http://www.fiebing.com/

Note all their stains. All that like if you decide to mess with stains make a trip to Lowes or Home Depot, Wal-mart, whatever and check out water-based wood stain. Anything that will stain wood, will also stain leather and the water-based stains are pretty forgiving. Esp. when it comes to diluting and making them lighter.

Let us know how it goes and if you stumble onto something good and different we'd like to know. By the way, Angelus also makes dye, but I haven't found it any better than Fiebing. It's different, but no better in my experience. I have found that they are more knowledgeable than the folks I've talked to at Fiebing. The bottom-line is they're all out to sell you something and there's a lot of variables, so what they tell you may not work. Like hands - dye and leather is the same - but different .

Edited February 22, 2008 by Billsotx

[abn]

These are my most "orangey" projects. The wallet was done with Eco-Flo Ranger Tan dye (2600-07) straight out of the bottle, applied with a dauber. The wristband was done with Fiebing's Medium Brown Leather Dye (2100-04) mixed with Lexol (to lighten the color and reduce streaking). The checkbook cover was done with Eco-Flo Acorn Brown All-In-One Stain (2605-03) straight out of the bottle, applied with a piece of cotton T-shirt.

If I were looking for a true orange, I'd start with the Eco-Flo leather dyes, probably Canyon Tan (2600-06), and mix with water if necessary to get the right shade. Keep in mind when you apply it, you'll want to get it a shade darker than desired, because when the leather dries, water-based dyes lighten somewhat. Bill's comments about different results for different leathers is good, too, so be sure to test on scrap to see how your results show up.

Good luck! Alex

[SCOUTER]

Like stated in the above... The only way to get rid of streaks is to saturate the leather with dye and as you know by doing that the piece becomes slightly darker. So the question is and always has been how do we get the color we want? Two simple answers (yeah right) 1- dilute or REDUCE the dye color so that when saturated the piece will be the right color and 2- Prep the leather somehow so that it will not absorb so much dye. Most of us believe that answer one is the way to go because it will last a long time. Answer 2 might not hold up as well but for some projects (like carvings) it might not matter. Example of number 2- prep leather with some leather sheen, let dry then try your dye... The color out of the bottle will look very similar to the finished product with one coat. Problem- the dye will tend to rub off on your hands because it has not penetrated the leather. Let us know what you settle on! Good Luck

[krains]

haha i'm having sort of the opposite effect, I want a "marbled" color like the first wallet you posted alex. is that just different swirles applied with the same color that you allow to build up by not buffing as much?

[abn]

Dude, believe me, no technique whatsoever goes into my dye jobs! ^_^ I noticed the marbling show up when I started using Eco-Flo dyes with Tandy leather (4-5 oz. double shoulders, to be exact). Since I don't prep my surface at all, my guess is that the variations in color are caused by some surface residue that might be left over from the tanning process. Most folks who are really concerned about an even tone want to get that stuff off before dyeing. Others of us kind of like the rustic effect.

Here's a darker wallet where the marbling is less pronounced. Also, you might want to check out Luke and Christine's site at SojournerLeather.com. I think they use Eco-Flo on Tandy leather, too, and produce some beautiful dye jobs!

Good luck! Alex

[adamncl]

Wow guys, thanks to everyone for such great responses, i love your work alex.

You have all certainly given me a lot to think about and test out, which is great as I am enjoying learning as much as getting to any point near a finished product. Having seen some other projects on here and taken your advice into account i guess that i will be looking into an airbrush system very soon, it will give me to opportunity to produce fine colour to colour blends on the leather so I will be winning all round.

The dye i hve been using just says leather dye on it so I am not sure of the type, although i think it may be alcohol based as it has warning about keeping it away from naked flames etc! My local supplier in the uk has quite a limited supplier, however, we are taking the kids to disney in six weeks so I am sure i will be able to fit in a trip to Tandy between the theme parks to check out the books you all suggested.

Thanks guys

[BillB]

When dealing with dyes and finishes, I have found it helpful to make a test palette using scrap leather of the same quality used in tooling. Here are the palettes that I have made to use as a reference.

Edited March 2, 2008 by Johanna
reduced pic sizes

[william]

If your looking for an orange leather try siegelofca.com he has some and the leather is outstanding.

[adamncl]

Thanks guys, thats really useful

[Drac]

make sure you ship the dyes to yourself when you get them since they probably won't let them on the plane.

[adamncl]

Thanks for that drac, it didnt even occur to me.

[David Genadek]

Prevail sprayers are a good inexspensive alternative to spray equipment if your not doing the volumn to justify the exspense of spray equipment.

To thin dyes you are best to get the solvent that the dye was made with. Dye stuffs can be pretty picky in terms of solubility. Some colors won't be a problem others will but if you buy the nuetral dye you can be more certain that you won't have a problem.

I just got a sample of LCI Aqua black and so far I am very impressed with the results I'm getting. It is waaaaaaaay better than the Fiebings version.

David Genadek

[strapt]

Some of my first projects really suffered from large streaks and blotches, and subsequently got darker and darker as I tried to cover my mistakes. Then I asked for some help... (before I found this site)

Here is a dyeing technique I have been experimenting with, as told to me by my Father in Law who worked in the leather biz for many years.

He uses a 3 bowl method. 1st bowl has dye in it. The second 2 have water in them.

Wet your leather with a damp sponge. Dip the sponge in some of the dye, then one of the water bowls and apply light coats. The water will allow you to build up layers of color without getting as much of the blotches and stripes. (or they'll be lighter anyway)

I have all but given up using the wool daubers, except for applying gum tragacanth to an edge. I usually buy my sponges from Trader Joe in the kitchen aisle and just cut about a 1" square for dying, then toss it out when I'm done.

This dye method has really worked for me, and I didn't even have to dig ot my old airbrush and get it going... Now if I can figure out that fangled digital camera we have I'll get around to posting some pics.

[Leerwerker]

I have a few pointers on my blog at

www.leatherlearn.com

Look on the right hand side and pick the Dye and Finishes category ...

[TwinOaks]

One of the things I've discovered is that some dyes are easily resisted by finger/hand prints. Cleaning the leather before adding color is definitly a good idea