Fiebing's Antique Finish splotched

[Dale]

If you've got a less pixelated photo, that might help us narrow it down. Based on the photo posted, three things come to mind:

1. The paste was sitting in that spot for a comparatively longer period of time. (Based on the color, I'm not inclined to believe this one)

2. It actually looks like a dirty area to begin with. Maybe your color-matching effort changed the color.

3. The leather is "weak" in this area. This has hit me many times. I don't know if I can adequately describe it, but I'll try. It frequently happens near the belly and natural wrinkle areas (neck, leg areas). The spots near the belly are usually somewhat spongy and have odd shapes. You may be able to push the spongy area out of shape (it's not as stiff as other parts of the hide) The natural wrinkle areas have linear flaws and the leather has a natural tendency to fold along that line. It's easier to fold or push the piece out of shape in these areas as compared to the rest of the hide. These flaws can also exist in other, more firm, parts of the hide as part of its processing. For example, the hide is split too thin in one area making it weaker than others, or it gets folded over and excess weight ends up on it creating an unnatural wrinkle. In any case, these areas typically (I want to say "always," but then someone will probably make a liar out of me) turn darker when a stain or paste is applied. I actually like some of them and if I find them ahead of time, I'll try to use them creatively in the piece. I think it holds character and can actually look pretty cool...in the right place.

Sorry to ramble. I was just trying to explain as clearly as possible.

Dale

[Randy Cornelius]

I have always used a resist of some kind when applying antique, neat Lac is what works the best. That way the antique will only stay in the tooled areas. I have never put antique on leather without a resist of some type being applied before the antique.

Randy

[Russ]

Dale;

Thanks for the ideas. 1 and 2, I can say are not the problem. Since the CD case was part of the kit from Tandy, I don't know where the leather was cut from, so 3 is possible. I didn't see any differences in the leather with the naked eye, but that's not to say it isn't possible.

I've done one of these cases before with the paste, and like the results, so this was a surprise when it happened. I really appreciate everyone's ideas and suggestions. Think next time I'll use some resist first, and hope that area still takes a bit of color. I wonder what would happened if I oiled it first, to bring out some color, and then used the paste?

[rharris]

Russ

I have had the same problem in the past. Now I either put a light coat of needs foot oil or oakwood saddle conditioner on before I use the antique paste. I have not had a problem since.

RussH

[Leather Bum]

Keep in mind that a complete (or strong) resist will keep the stain from soaking into the leather -- it resists the stain. As far as I know, the stain will then just sit on top of the leather instead of penetrating and actually coloring it.

I wonder if a "partial" resist would do the trick -- something applied to the leather surface so it will accept the stain evenly. . . Maybe that's what the oil others have mentioned does. . .? Or perhaps a very thinned finish (Super/Satin Shene, RTC, Tan Kote, etc.) would work similarly. . .?

L'Bum