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Posted
2 minutes ago, NowhereMan01 said:

The bobbin thread is still not getting picked up, so I'll post a video of that shortly. 

Does that clutch only engage in 1 position? If not, you could just be locked in the wrong place.

“Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.”
- Voltaire

“Republics decline into democracies and democracies degenerate into despotisms.”
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Posted
5 hours ago, AlZilla said:

Does that clutch only engage in 1 position? If not, you could just be locked in the wrong place.

I'll check that, but it looks to me like the timing is now correct, that is, the hook passes by the needle at the correct point. However, it is not quite close enough to consistently catch the thread, so I plan to adjust the "distance between the sewing hook and needle" (p. 19, Fig. 45 of the manual), and I'm fairly confident that'll get it working. Either way, I'll post an update here.

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Posted

I've been trying to adjust the distance between the hook and the needle, and in spite of at least 25 attempts, I have not been able to get it to sew yet. Either the hook is too far away, and does not catch the thread, or the thread  immediately breaks, and I get a mess of thread wrapped around the outside of the bobbin case. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

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Posted
23 minutes ago, NowhereMan01 said:

Either the hook is too far away, and does not catch the thread, or the thread  immediately breaks, and I get a mess of thread wrapped around the outside of the bobbin case.

Let's get it to where the hook reliably picks up the needle thread. If the thread breaks when it gets picked up, we'll solve that when we get to it.

 

How to stuff a hook

Meaning how to use the needle guard to ensure that the hook point is always stuffed into the scarf regardless of material thickness, forward/reverse, stitch length, slightly bent needles, machine speed, etc.

  1. Correct needle system
  2. Brand new needle, of the size that you use most often
  3. Make a black mark on the inside of the scarf of the needle indicating where the point of the hook should cross. (Usually about 3mm above the top of the needle eye, the manual will say for sure)
  4. Needle fully inserted. (Look in the window to verify)
  5. Needle orientation: Scarf facing hook
  6. Sharp hook with clean angles
  7. Bend the needle guard slightly out of the way, or remove it temporarily
  8. Set the stitch length to whatever you use most often
  9. Loosen the hook saddle
  10. Move the hook closer to the needle, until the interference with the needle is approx 0.5mm - 1mm
  11. Tighten the hook saddle into position
  12. Adjust the needle bar height such that the hook point attempts to bisect the needle at the black mark you made on the needle scarf. (This height is important because it affects how much of the needle rubs on the needle guard)
  13. Bend the needle guard so that the needle guard deflects the needle such that the hook point just kisses the needle, or is VERY CLOSE to kissing. (0mm - 0.05mm away)
  14. Set hook to needle timing (also known as "needle bar rise"). You'll probably have to reset the needle bar height in the process

Reference: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/47477-211g155-do-i-have-the-wrong-machine/page/6/#findComment-304044

 

friquant. Like a frequent, piquant flyer.

Check out my blog: Choosing a Motor for your Industrial Sewing Machine

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Posted
On 9/5/2025 at 6:17 PM, NowhereMan01 said:

Apparently, I did have the wrong set screw engaged with the V slot, and I've now got the slightly-rounded one in the slot.

I've been meaning to ask you, when you tightened the position screw (rounded tip that goes in the groove) and the set screw (flat tip that goes against the wall of the shaft) on that feed eccentric...By any chance did the screws end up in different holes than originally?

If they did, the feed mechanisms that run on that eccentric would be out of time. (Hook timing would be unaffected.) The feed mechanisms could be made to run either way, but may be quicker to get it all straightened out if it's the same way as original.

friquant. Like a frequent, piquant flyer.

Check out my blog: Choosing a Motor for your Industrial Sewing Machine

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Posted

I got it working!

It seems that the safety clutch got kicked out again, and when I finally snapped it back in place, the hook timing was way off (not sure how I missed any of that). Anyways, I adjusted the hook timing as discussed in the video below (which, btw, is a very similar machine to mine). It now sews.

I probably still need to fiddle around with the safety clutch, as it seems to kick out before I get to the maximum stitch length, but otherwise, it appears to be working as well as it ever has in the (relatively short) time that I've owned it.

Thanks again for all of the suggestions and help. This was a fantastic learning experience for me, as I now have an infinitely better understanding of how the machine works, and I believe that I should be able to keep it going for the foreseeable future...

 

 

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Posted
55 minutes ago, NowhereMan01 said:

I got it working!

It seems that the safety clutch got kicked out again

Whoo whoo!! 🎈Congratulations! 🔔

Those safety clutches need to tell us when they trip 📯

I decided to back mine off today because it never trips. But as I started stitching thicker and thicker material, the safety clutch needed a higher and higher setting in order to stitch it without tripping. So I'm almost back to the setting I started with 😂

friquant. Like a frequent, piquant flyer.

Check out my blog: Choosing a Motor for your Industrial Sewing Machine

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